After four consecutive days of riding across Europe, and covering almost 2000 km in the process, I decide to take it easy today. I need to catchup on some emails etc, and decide to spend the day with Dave and Naomi.
They are in the throws of getting back into their "Real Lives", something I am sure I will have to deal with upon my return to South Africa. Not something I am looking forward to!! :-)
Sunday 23 October 2011
Day 142, 2011/09/20
Today is officially my last day on the bike. I hope to be in London by this evening, and since I am shipping my bike back from there, this should be my last day in the saddle. Needless to say, I am up early, still need to get to Calais in France, and then get onto a ferry to Dover. The 200km to Calais are relatively uneventful, and I manage to find the ferry port easily. The ferry ticket turns out to be a huge ripoff!!! On the ferry company's website, one is able to purchase a ferry ticket for approximately 15 Pounds, which I did not since, I did not know when, and what time I was arriving in Calais. However, if you purchase the ticket on the day, at the port, it is 65 Euros!!! Yes, no one told me that. Nothing really one can do about that really. If you decide to wait a day and travel the next, you will have to book yourself into a hotel/hostel for the evening which, would most probably cost you the same. Anyway, lesson learnt, I purchase my ticket and I manage to catch the noon ferry to Dover.
The ferry is very impressive. It has lovely sitting area, with bars and restaurants and even it's own Duty Free shopping area. So far removed from the horrendous ferry from Wadi Halfa to Aswan, in Northern Sudan.
The 90 min crossing appears to pass quickly, and before I know it, I am finally riding on the correct side of the road again. Yeah, I have been on the right hand side of the road since I hit Ethiopia. I must admit, I have gotten use to it, and the first couple of traffic circles do require more than the normal levels of concentration.
Dover is about 100 odd km South East from London, so it does not take me long to get to the outskirts of London and the M25. I must admit, it is a slightly surreal feeling to find myself on my motorcycle, on the M25 in London. Who would ever have thought that, I after 142 of traveling, would be riding my bike into London. I must admit, I never thought I would have gotten this far!!
As irony would have, it was not all to be and approximately 10 km from the center of London, my motorcycle eventually decided to give up, and I broke down on the outskirts of London, in a place called Barking. The sprocket, that I had managed to fix in Northern Kenya, had finally decided enough was enough, and the entire shaft broke. This unfortunately was pretty terminal! Short of splitting the motor, and having the shaft replaced, there was no way I would be able to get going.
Look, I guess I could not have timed it any better. If the bike had broken down a couple of hours earlier, I would have been stuck in France!! And that would have made getting the bike to the shipping agents a nightmare. Well I guess I must have a guardian angel looking after me!! ;-)
After a number of phone calls and loads of help from Naomi, I eventually manage to contact the shipping agents who, say they are able to assist me in collecting the bike. Of course, this does not come cheap, and the towing of a motorcycle across London only set me back 180 Pounds!! Amazing, it costs 950 pounds to ship a bike from London to Durban, and from one side of London to the other, approximately 40 km costs me 180 Pounds! Amazing. None the less, I guess it could have been a lot worse, I could be stuck in the middle of nowhere, and then that would have been a nightmare.
After a two hour wait, James Cargo arrive to collect my bike. It is slightly sad to know that this if officially the end of my trip, and the next time I will see my motorcycle it will be back in South Africa. But I guess all good things must come to an end!!
After loading the bike, I get a lift to the closet tube station and make my way to
East Finchley, where Naomi pics me up.
All in all, it has been a reasonably good day, and been able to finally meet up again with Dave and Naomi, after seeing them last in Luxor in Egypt is lovely!
The ferry is very impressive. It has lovely sitting area, with bars and restaurants and even it's own Duty Free shopping area. So far removed from the horrendous ferry from Wadi Halfa to Aswan, in Northern Sudan.
The 90 min crossing appears to pass quickly, and before I know it, I am finally riding on the correct side of the road again. Yeah, I have been on the right hand side of the road since I hit Ethiopia. I must admit, I have gotten use to it, and the first couple of traffic circles do require more than the normal levels of concentration.
Dover is about 100 odd km South East from London, so it does not take me long to get to the outskirts of London and the M25. I must admit, it is a slightly surreal feeling to find myself on my motorcycle, on the M25 in London. Who would ever have thought that, I after 142 of traveling, would be riding my bike into London. I must admit, I never thought I would have gotten this far!!
As irony would have, it was not all to be and approximately 10 km from the center of London, my motorcycle eventually decided to give up, and I broke down on the outskirts of London, in a place called Barking. The sprocket, that I had managed to fix in Northern Kenya, had finally decided enough was enough, and the entire shaft broke. This unfortunately was pretty terminal! Short of splitting the motor, and having the shaft replaced, there was no way I would be able to get going.
Look, I guess I could not have timed it any better. If the bike had broken down a couple of hours earlier, I would have been stuck in France!! And that would have made getting the bike to the shipping agents a nightmare. Well I guess I must have a guardian angel looking after me!! ;-)
After a number of phone calls and loads of help from Naomi, I eventually manage to contact the shipping agents who, say they are able to assist me in collecting the bike. Of course, this does not come cheap, and the towing of a motorcycle across London only set me back 180 Pounds!! Amazing, it costs 950 pounds to ship a bike from London to Durban, and from one side of London to the other, approximately 40 km costs me 180 Pounds! Amazing. None the less, I guess it could have been a lot worse, I could be stuck in the middle of nowhere, and then that would have been a nightmare.
After a two hour wait, James Cargo arrive to collect my bike. It is slightly sad to know that this if officially the end of my trip, and the next time I will see my motorcycle it will be back in South Africa. But I guess all good things must come to an end!!
After loading the bike, I get a lift to the closet tube station and make my way to
East Finchley, where Naomi pics me up.
All in all, it has been a reasonably good day, and been able to finally meet up again with Dave and Naomi, after seeing them last in Luxor in Egypt is lovely!
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| Day 142, 2011/09/20 |
Day 141, 2011/09/19
It was not a particularly pleasant evening's sleep. I was in a hostel with four other guys. That is not necessarily a problem however, for the guy who was sleeping closets to me. He woke me on several occasions by hitting me and speaking in French. Eventually, after the umpteenth time that he had woken me, I asked in English what the problem was. He said I was keeping him awake with my snoring! I was unaware of the fact that I was such a loud snorer!! I really do not know why people choose to stay in hostels, and share rooms with people when, they are such lite sleepers. But hey, what do I know!!
Anyway, I am up early because I have a fairly long days riding. I need to get to Brussels in Belgium today. The road will take me via Luxembourg to Brussels.
The weather at least is far more pleasant today, it may be cold but at least there is no rain. The riding is very pleasant and I manage to arrive in the early afternoon. After finding my hostel, which happens to be right next to Grand Place, I make way do find a good local meal. The local meal, is a lovely big bowl of mussels with chips and mayo!! WOW!!! Well worth riding all this distance, just to have that. And, just to make sure it all gets washed down well, I have couple of Belgium fruit beers.
Anyway, I am up early because I have a fairly long days riding. I need to get to Brussels in Belgium today. The road will take me via Luxembourg to Brussels.
The weather at least is far more pleasant today, it may be cold but at least there is no rain. The riding is very pleasant and I manage to arrive in the early afternoon. After finding my hostel, which happens to be right next to Grand Place, I make way do find a good local meal. The local meal, is a lovely big bowl of mussels with chips and mayo!! WOW!!! Well worth riding all this distance, just to have that. And, just to make sure it all gets washed down well, I have couple of Belgium fruit beers.
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| Day 141, 2011/09/19 |
Day 140, 2011/09/18
I spent the evening at a basic but acceptable hostel about 15 km from the center of Piacensa. At the hostel were a number of asylum seekers from Ghana. They have been at the hostel now for almost 4 months. That were migrant labourers who lived and worked in Libya. When war broke out, they managed to escape on a boat to the island of Lampedusa. They are now in the process of applying for permanent residence in Italy.
Apparently a very lengthy process. Shame not a good place to find one's self. Anyway, I have a long days riding ahead of me. I have to get to Strasbourg in France. My route will take to via the outskirts of Milan. To add salt to the wound, I have been told that the weather is to turn nasty today, with loads of cold, wet weather expected. Not fun on a motorcycle. I guess, after all that hot weather I have had in Sudan, this will make a pleasant change.
As it turns out, the weather forecase is spot on and the heavens opened up as I approached the outskirts of Milan. All I can say is, thank god it is Sunday, and there is almost no traffic to contend with. Trying to endure a cloud burst is difficult enough!!
At least the rain petered out and I only had to endure very cold weather. The weather in Switzerland was exceptionally cold, with temperature below 10 degrees.
The other downside of Switzerland was the sheer cost. Two sandwiches and an awful coffee, only set me back R200!!!! Thank god I do not plan to remain in Europe for too long, this is most certainly not contributing to keeping the budget in check!!!
I manage to arrive in Strasbourg towards the late afternoon after traveling via Lugano and Basel.
After settling into my hostel for the evening, I hit the sights and sounds of Strasbourg. For those who do not know, Strasbourg is the official seat for the European Parliament. In addition, they have one of the most amazing cathedrals that I have ever seen. Well worth a visit.
Apparently a very lengthy process. Shame not a good place to find one's self. Anyway, I have a long days riding ahead of me. I have to get to Strasbourg in France. My route will take to via the outskirts of Milan. To add salt to the wound, I have been told that the weather is to turn nasty today, with loads of cold, wet weather expected. Not fun on a motorcycle. I guess, after all that hot weather I have had in Sudan, this will make a pleasant change.
As it turns out, the weather forecase is spot on and the heavens opened up as I approached the outskirts of Milan. All I can say is, thank god it is Sunday, and there is almost no traffic to contend with. Trying to endure a cloud burst is difficult enough!!
At least the rain petered out and I only had to endure very cold weather. The weather in Switzerland was exceptionally cold, with temperature below 10 degrees.
The other downside of Switzerland was the sheer cost. Two sandwiches and an awful coffee, only set me back R200!!!! Thank god I do not plan to remain in Europe for too long, this is most certainly not contributing to keeping the budget in check!!!
I manage to arrive in Strasbourg towards the late afternoon after traveling via Lugano and Basel.
After settling into my hostel for the evening, I hit the sights and sounds of Strasbourg. For those who do not know, Strasbourg is the official seat for the European Parliament. In addition, they have one of the most amazing cathedrals that I have ever seen. Well worth a visit.
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| Day 140, 2011/09/18 |
Day 139, 2011/09/17
I have made many inquiries into the costs of shipping my bike back to South Africa. Unfortunately, my bike now has sentimental value, and even thou it may have almost no monetary, I have decided to ship it back to South Africa. I have done research into the costs of shipping it back and discovered that, the cheapest option is a company specializing in motorcycle transport called James Cargo. The only thing is that, they are based in London. Not necessarily a problem I guess, I have crossed Africa, Europe in theory should be a lot easier. Also, the difference in cost between shipping it from Genoa, in Italy or, shipping it from London in the UK would most probably be equivalent to my travel costs to London.
So in the end, the decision has become a no brainer and, I have decided to travel to London and have my bike shipped back from there.
That would add addition approximately 1500 km to my journey. Why the hell not!
It is with that decision made that I decide to make my way across Europe to London.
Today would require a 500 km ride via Ancona, Bologna all the way to Piacensa.
So in the end, the decision has become a no brainer and, I have decided to travel to London and have my bike shipped back from there.
That would add addition approximately 1500 km to my journey. Why the hell not!
It is with that decision made that I decide to make my way across Europe to London.
Today would require a 500 km ride via Ancona, Bologna all the way to Piacensa.
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| Day 139, 2011/09/17 |
Day 138, 2011/09/16
After not been able to hook up with my uncle Giulio on Tuesday, he has invited me to lunch. He has also invited my aunt and uncle, Lucia and Luciano.
We had a lovely lunch of freshly fried fish.
We had a lovely lunch of freshly fried fish.
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| Day 138, 2011/09/16 |
Day 137, 2011/09/15
Another day of visiting family. This time I am off to Monte Urano, to visit my mom's sister Maria. I am lucky to meet up with my cousin Giovanni, his wife and his son Adriano.
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| Day 137, 2011/09/15 |
Day 136 2011/09/14
Another day of visiting family. This time I am off to Fermo, to visit my mom's oldest brother Gino and his wife Anna. The visit is short and sweet. On the way back to Alba Adriatica, I go past Ripatransone to the cemetery to see the graves of my grandparents.
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| Day 136, 2011/09/14 |
Day 135 2011/09/13
After visiting my aunt and uncle yesterday in Ripatransone, I am off to visit my uncle Gulio in Aqua Viva. He lives out on a farmstead and besides writing books on all sorts of topics, he keeps himself busy growing grapes, olives and all sorts of fruits. He is a very eccentric cater. So eccentric that he manage to forget our appointment. So I decided to spend the remainder of the day having some long walks on the beach.
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| Day 135, 2011/09/13 |
Saturday 22 October 2011
Day 134 2011/09/12
The problem with having a big Italian family is that, there are many people to visit when you come visit. So the next couple of days, I will be spending my time traveling around the Marhe visiting family. Today, I have made plans to visit my aunt and uncle, Lucia and Luciano. They have immigrated back to Italy, and live in my mom's hometown Ripatrasone.
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| Day 134, 2011/09/12 |
Day 133 2011/09/11
It is time to hit the road again. I have now been in Cinte for almost 10 days, and the tranquility has been great however, I am itching to get going again.
I have to travel approximatly 500 km today. The heading is South, via Bologna, Ancona to Alba Adriatica in Abruzzo. I have managed to find a lovely inexpensive hotel, close to where my mom comes from in the Marche. It is closet the beach so, some R&R is on the cards.
It is Sunday, so I hope to avoid any major traffic issues, especially in and around Bologna.
The early rise, together with the high mountain air makes for some chilly riding initially. Autumn is clearly on it's way.
The ride is lovely and relaxing. Almost all of it on lovely highways means I am able to travel maintain a good average speed and overtaking is not a problem.
Hotel Clara, has this bright pink facade and it is easy to find. My room has aircon which, in this hot humid place is a necessity and, even my bike has off street, secure parking. What else can a biker ask for!
After lunch and an afternoon siesta, I eventually find my way to the beach for a lovely long walk along the beach.
I have to travel approximatly 500 km today. The heading is South, via Bologna, Ancona to Alba Adriatica in Abruzzo. I have managed to find a lovely inexpensive hotel, close to where my mom comes from in the Marche. It is closet the beach so, some R&R is on the cards.
It is Sunday, so I hope to avoid any major traffic issues, especially in and around Bologna.
The early rise, together with the high mountain air makes for some chilly riding initially. Autumn is clearly on it's way.
The ride is lovely and relaxing. Almost all of it on lovely highways means I am able to travel maintain a good average speed and overtaking is not a problem.
Hotel Clara, has this bright pink facade and it is easy to find. My room has aircon which, in this hot humid place is a necessity and, even my bike has off street, secure parking. What else can a biker ask for!
After lunch and an afternoon siesta, I eventually find my way to the beach for a lovely long walk along the beach.
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| Day 133, 2011/09/11 |
Friday 7 October 2011
Day 132, 2011/09/10
It is my last day in Cinte Tesino, so I have decided to go with my Dad down to Bassano del Grappa, to see my gran's side of the family. I have decided to check to see if my bike is working fine and ride my bike down to Bassano while, my Dad takes the train.
In Bassano we meet up with my Dad's brother's Gianni and Enrico. I have not seen them in over twenty years. It is lovely to see them again. I also get to meet, for the first time, my cousin Bruno. He is a very extravagant character and a laugh a minute.
In Bassano we meet up with my Dad's brother's Gianni and Enrico. I have not seen them in over twenty years. It is lovely to see them again. I also get to meet, for the first time, my cousin Bruno. He is a very extravagant character and a laugh a minute.
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| Day 132, 2011/09/10 |
Day 131, 2011/09/09
I have good news, I have managed to get my 3rd party insurance organized. Thanks to mototouring, it was very easy and relatively painless process. This means that, I can finally get going again. I have decided to postpone my departure to Sunday, this will give me a little more time to see the family members I still have not been able to see.
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| Day 131, 2011/09/09 |
Day 130, 2011/09/08
It has been a while since I have serviced my bike, and it is in desperate need of a service. The one advantage of being in Europe is that, spare parts are not difficult to find. I have managed to locate the closets BMW dealer to Bassano Del Grappa. It is about 2 hours from Cinte, but I have loads of time on my hands.
Bassano is located on the edge of plato and the start of the dolomite mountains. It is a very scenic city. It is market day in town, and the food stalls are absolutely amazing.
On returning to Cinte, I quickly service my bike by changing its oil filter and oil. Unfortunately, the BMW dealer could not source my air filter, so that will have to wait until my bike gets back to South Africa.
Bassano is located on the edge of plato and the start of the dolomite mountains. It is a very scenic city. It is market day in town, and the food stalls are absolutely amazing.
On returning to Cinte, I quickly service my bike by changing its oil filter and oil. Unfortunately, the BMW dealer could not source my air filter, so that will have to wait until my bike gets back to South Africa.
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| Day 130, 2011/09/08 |
Day 129, 2011/09/07
With time to kill, my dad and I decide to take a trip to the main provincial city Trento. I am blown away by the sophistication of the town. The city center is full of upmarket shops and boutiques. The ladies ride around the city center on their bicycles, but they all look like models on a catwalk.
Later we meet up with my dad's cousin, Luco who then takes us to lunch.
Later we meet up with my dad's cousin, Luco who then takes us to lunch.
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| Day 129, 2011/09/07 |
Thursday 6 October 2011
Day 128, 2011/09/06
It is my dad's birthday today. So he decides to show me around. We go for a long walk to see all the farmsteads around Cinte Tesino. He shows me where he was born and we take a couple of pics. Annapia comes with her dog in tow.
In the evening, my dad takes us all out for dinner and a local pizzeria.
In the evening, my dad takes us all out for dinner and a local pizzeria.
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| Day 128, 2011/09/06 |
Monday 3 October 2011
Day 127, 2011/09/05
Looks like my decision to not get my 3rd party insurance in Trieste on my arrival has caused me endless nightmare. My bike does not have a European registration and hence, it is posing a huge problem. The standard insurance companies in town can not issue me any 3rd party insurance and, I am forced to either return to Trieste and do it in person there or, find an alternative insurer online. After some hunting on the net, and thanks to the HorizonsUnlimited website, I eventually find motortouring and they are able to assist me with obtaining it online.
Only thing is that, the lady who does the insurance will not be around until Wednesday so, I will have to kill time until then.
Once again, loads of time to kill on my hands! ;-)
Only thing is that, the lady who does the insurance will not be around until Wednesday so, I will have to kill time until then.
Once again, loads of time to kill on my hands! ;-)
Day 126, 2011/09/04
It is my birthday and I was invited to my aunt Ivana's house for lunch. My three aunts Ivana, Rosi and Milena are made me the most spectacular lunch. My aunt Milena also made the most amazing berry pie!
My cousin, Umberto and his lovely wife arrived later to show off their gorgeous daughter!
My cousin, Umberto and his lovely wife arrived later to show off their gorgeous daughter!
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| Day 126, 2011/09/04 |
Day 124-125, 2011/09/02-03
It is lovely to be around family and friends.So most of my time has been spent doing the family rounds. Some think I am mad for riding all this way! They are all happy to see me, which in Italian terms normally means that, you are fed loads of food! At this rate, I will most certainly put back all that weight that I managed to loose during the course of my travels.
Day 123, 2011/09/01 Koper Slovinia to Monfalcone Italy
Well with the thoughts of finally arriving in Italy tomorrow and the fact that, they are loading 1600 cars on to the boat over night meant that, I got almost no sleep.
However, I have come accustomed to the fact that the night before a long ride into the unknown, I am bound to suffer from an over active mind.
I am up early and arrive on the top deck to discover that the entire thing is covered end to end with cars. All Chevy Sparks. If you see this sight, you wonder if the world is suffering from a financial downturn!
Eventually, we manage to depart from Koper and, even though the trip to Monfalcone is only 90 minutes, it feels like eternity. I must admit, 5 days on a cargo ship with not too many distractions to keep you occupied can make you very keen to get back onto land and civilization. If the ship voyage felt like eternity, it was nothing like the wait for the customs officials to give their go ahead. And after eventually double checking that I did not need any formal documentation to import my motorcycle into Italy/EU I hit the road. It was already midday, and even though the GPS said it was only 250 km to Cinte Tesino, I knew I needed to make headway. There was however a problem, I did not have 3rd party insurance. My dad has supplied me with 3rd party insurance details however, I decide to take the chance and ride without it, and sort it out once I am in Cinte Tesino.
Not a bright thing to do, considering that it is very illegal thing to do and that if caught, they will impound my motorcycle.
The initially 200 odd kms are all on amazing Auto Strada/Motorway, and I am able to absorb the fact that I am finally in Europe. It take a while to sink in that after loads of effort I have finally achieved and accomplished another major goal on my trip.
However, the celebration will have to wait until later, when I arrive in Cinte since I have to still come to terms with navigating in Europe with my GPS. Since I have not voice prompts, and am dependent on the screen for all navigation it is not long before I make a number of wrong turns. One soo bad that, I am forced to do a U turn on the freeway. Yes!! I did, in a country where U turns on a freeway are strictly prohibited!! Well, when you are lost you will do anything I guess.
Eventually I familiarize myself with how to navigate using my GPS in Italy, and then things start to feel a lot better.
The GPS routes me a different route to which I am use to. I am so accustomed to traveling via the Valsugana that, when the GPS routes me via Feltre and Roa, I feel that something is not all kosher. However, after double checking I eventually put my trust into my GPS and allow it to route me the way it wants.
The route actually turns out to spectacular. The valleys I ride through, are flanked by the Dolomite mountains. The grey of the rocks, and the green of the vegetation make an amazing contrast.
The final 15 odd km is via a place called Roa, and the road is extremely narrow in places with some hair pin bends that bend back upon themselves. Really spectacular however, when you tired and have a fully laden bike, it can be very nerve racking.
However, nothing like just riding slowly and safely, and finally I manage to arrive at Castello Tesino, the larger of the three towns from which my Dad comes from. From Castello, I am able to see Cinte which, is located on the other side of the Gringo valley. After a taking a couple of pics, I decide to ride the last couple of kilometers to Cinte. On arrival, I find my father who is very happy to see that I have finally arrived safe and sound.
However, I have come accustomed to the fact that the night before a long ride into the unknown, I am bound to suffer from an over active mind.
I am up early and arrive on the top deck to discover that the entire thing is covered end to end with cars. All Chevy Sparks. If you see this sight, you wonder if the world is suffering from a financial downturn!
Eventually, we manage to depart from Koper and, even though the trip to Monfalcone is only 90 minutes, it feels like eternity. I must admit, 5 days on a cargo ship with not too many distractions to keep you occupied can make you very keen to get back onto land and civilization. If the ship voyage felt like eternity, it was nothing like the wait for the customs officials to give their go ahead. And after eventually double checking that I did not need any formal documentation to import my motorcycle into Italy/EU I hit the road. It was already midday, and even though the GPS said it was only 250 km to Cinte Tesino, I knew I needed to make headway. There was however a problem, I did not have 3rd party insurance. My dad has supplied me with 3rd party insurance details however, I decide to take the chance and ride without it, and sort it out once I am in Cinte Tesino.
Not a bright thing to do, considering that it is very illegal thing to do and that if caught, they will impound my motorcycle.
The initially 200 odd kms are all on amazing Auto Strada/Motorway, and I am able to absorb the fact that I am finally in Europe. It take a while to sink in that after loads of effort I have finally achieved and accomplished another major goal on my trip.
However, the celebration will have to wait until later, when I arrive in Cinte since I have to still come to terms with navigating in Europe with my GPS. Since I have not voice prompts, and am dependent on the screen for all navigation it is not long before I make a number of wrong turns. One soo bad that, I am forced to do a U turn on the freeway. Yes!! I did, in a country where U turns on a freeway are strictly prohibited!! Well, when you are lost you will do anything I guess.
Eventually I familiarize myself with how to navigate using my GPS in Italy, and then things start to feel a lot better.
The GPS routes me a different route to which I am use to. I am so accustomed to traveling via the Valsugana that, when the GPS routes me via Feltre and Roa, I feel that something is not all kosher. However, after double checking I eventually put my trust into my GPS and allow it to route me the way it wants.
The route actually turns out to spectacular. The valleys I ride through, are flanked by the Dolomite mountains. The grey of the rocks, and the green of the vegetation make an amazing contrast.
The final 15 odd km is via a place called Roa, and the road is extremely narrow in places with some hair pin bends that bend back upon themselves. Really spectacular however, when you tired and have a fully laden bike, it can be very nerve racking.
However, nothing like just riding slowly and safely, and finally I manage to arrive at Castello Tesino, the larger of the three towns from which my Dad comes from. From Castello, I am able to see Cinte which, is located on the other side of the Gringo valley. After a taking a couple of pics, I decide to ride the last couple of kilometers to Cinte. On arrival, I find my father who is very happy to see that I have finally arrived safe and sound.
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| Day 123, 2011/09/01 |
Tuesday 13 September 2011
Day 122, 2011/08/31 Ravenna Italy to Koper Slovinia
Day 122, 2011/08/31 Ravenna Italy to Koper Slovinia
I have awoken to the sights and sounds of a port. We are in Ravenna. Finally of all those days at sea,it is finally nice to see land. The boat has been a hive of activity all night. They have been loading new trucks that need to be delivered to Turkey and Israel. Eventually, at about 8 am,the boat sets sail for Koper, Slovinia. The passage across the sea should only take 8 hours.
And true to form, we arrive in Koper late in the afternoon. After docking, we are permitted to go ashore and see the sights and sounds of Koper. Clemens and I walk the entire town end to end winthin no time. Nice to be able to get off the boat after been confined to the boat for almost 5 days now. After having a couple of local beers we return to the boat to find that its been overrun by new cars. They are in the process if loading 1600 cars and hence every inch of the boat, including the top deck is been covered with cars. It is an impressive sight to see all these new cars. And the first thought that comes to mind is " And there is a recession? "
The loading is scheduled to take al night, Clemens and I decode to hit the sack.
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| Day 122, 2011/08/31 |
I have awoken to the sights and sounds of a port. We are in Ravenna. Finally of all those days at sea,it is finally nice to see land. The boat has been a hive of activity all night. They have been loading new trucks that need to be delivered to Turkey and Israel. Eventually, at about 8 am,the boat sets sail for Koper, Slovinia. The passage across the sea should only take 8 hours.
And true to form, we arrive in Koper late in the afternoon. After docking, we are permitted to go ashore and see the sights and sounds of Koper. Clemens and I walk the entire town end to end winthin no time. Nice to be able to get off the boat after been confined to the boat for almost 5 days now. After having a couple of local beers we return to the boat to find that its been overrun by new cars. They are in the process if loading 1600 cars and hence every inch of the boat, including the top deck is been covered with cars. It is an impressive sight to see all these new cars. And the first thought that comes to mind is " And there is a recession? "
The loading is scheduled to take al night, Clemens and I decode to hit the sack.
Day 121, 2011/08/30 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 3
Day 121, 2011/08/30 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 3
We have been informed that, we are to arrive late this evening in Ravenna, Italy. The lady bike riders, hVe arranged to off load their bikes here while, Clemens and myself have decided to continue to Monfalkone.
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| Day 121, 2011/08/30 |
We have been informed that, we are to arrive late this evening in Ravenna, Italy. The lady bike riders, hVe arranged to off load their bikes here while, Clemens and myself have decided to continue to Monfalkone.
Day 120, 2011/08/29 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 2
Day 120, 2011/08/29 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 2
The day is spent doing loads of reading, eating and sleeping.
The day is spent doing loads of reading, eating and sleeping.
Day 119, 2011/08/28 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 1
Day 119, 2011/08/28 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy Day 1
Cargo ships are not the most exciting place on earth. We have very limited access on the ship, basically to the top floor. So the day is spent doing loads of reading, eating and sleeping.
Cargo ships are not the most exciting place on earth. We have very limited access on the ship, basically to the top floor. So the day is spent doing loads of reading, eating and sleeping.
Day 118, 2011/08/27 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy
Day 118, 2011/08/27 Limassol in Cyprus to Ravenna Italy
I awake after a good nights rest to discover that we have already arrived in Limassol, Cyprus. Another first for me. I have never been to Cyprus. Pity, we are only here for a couple of hours else, I would love to see an old friend Telly. We have just enough time to walk Round the port city for only two hours. Not really anything to write home about.
Shortly after lunch, after off loading a couple hundred cars, the boat finally sets sails for Ravenna, Italy.
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| Day 118, 2011/08/27 |
I awake after a good nights rest to discover that we have already arrived in Limassol, Cyprus. Another first for me. I have never been to Cyprus. Pity, we are only here for a couple of hours else, I would love to see an old friend Telly. We have just enough time to walk Round the port city for only two hours. Not really anything to write home about.
Shortly after lunch, after off loading a couple hundred cars, the boat finally sets sails for Ravenna, Italy.
Day 117, 2011/08/26 Haifa to Limassol in Cyprus
Day 117, 2011/08/26 Haifa to Limassol in Cyprus
After receiving tickets the day before, Clemens and myself decide to pay another visit to the local agents. The agents advise us that, the boat we are due to been on will actually be arriving early and impact will be here that morning and, will be leaving this evening. WOW!! That is the best news I have heard all week! So it is a big rush now. We head back to the hotel to checkout and collect our bikes and things. We are back by midday and then the wake game begins. While waiting another two bikes arrive. The riders are two Italian women, the one on a KTM 990. Impressive!!! Eventually, we are guided through passport control and customs and onto our Grimaldi cargo ship. After handing over our passports, we are shown to our cabins, which will be home for the next couple of days. They are really luxurious compared to anything i have seen in months, nothing like the ones on the Wadi Halfa ship. Eventually at about 6 pm we set sail. What a relief! Finally the last major stress has been lifted and it feels like my final goal, that of arriving in Europe is finally becoming a reality.
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| Day 117, 2011/08/26 |
After receiving tickets the day before, Clemens and myself decide to pay another visit to the local agents. The agents advise us that, the boat we are due to been on will actually be arriving early and impact will be here that morning and, will be leaving this evening. WOW!! That is the best news I have heard all week! So it is a big rush now. We head back to the hotel to checkout and collect our bikes and things. We are back by midday and then the wake game begins. While waiting another two bikes arrive. The riders are two Italian women, the one on a KTM 990. Impressive!!! Eventually, we are guided through passport control and customs and onto our Grimaldi cargo ship. After handing over our passports, we are shown to our cabins, which will be home for the next couple of days. They are really luxurious compared to anything i have seen in months, nothing like the ones on the Wadi Halfa ship. Eventually at about 6 pm we set sail. What a relief! Finally the last major stress has been lifted and it feels like my final goal, that of arriving in Europe is finally becoming a reality.
Friday 9 September 2011
Day 116, 2011/08/25 Haifa
Day 116, 2011/08/25 Haifa
Since, I am here until Sunday the earliest, I decide to reduce my costs by moving from a hotel to a hostel. The Port Inn hostel, is also within walking distance of the shipping agents, which makes it possible for me to keep on top of things.
At the Port Inn, I encounter another fellow biker on a Ural, with side car. Clemens, an Austrian, has been on the road for the past 5 months. He has done most of Easter Europe and now also needs to get back to Europe via ferry. He has also booked on the same ferry and, is as frustrated as I am.
We decide to make a quick visit to the local agents just to see if there has been a change in status. The lady at the agency said the news was worse than we initially thought and that the boat would be delayed indefinitely. However, she did elude to another Grimaldi ship that we perhaps could be moved to which sea due on Saturday. Needless to say, Clemens and I are over the moon at this thought! After a couple of emails and phone calls, and is arranged and we now have tickets for the other Grimaldi ship called Spes. You do not understand the relief of knowing we have alternatives to spending indefinite time in Haifa. After dinner we decide to do some drinks with people from the hostel and end up getting really trashed and only get home at 3am.
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| Day 116, 2011/08/25 |
Since, I am here until Sunday the earliest, I decide to reduce my costs by moving from a hotel to a hostel. The Port Inn hostel, is also within walking distance of the shipping agents, which makes it possible for me to keep on top of things.
At the Port Inn, I encounter another fellow biker on a Ural, with side car. Clemens, an Austrian, has been on the road for the past 5 months. He has done most of Easter Europe and now also needs to get back to Europe via ferry. He has also booked on the same ferry and, is as frustrated as I am.
We decide to make a quick visit to the local agents just to see if there has been a change in status. The lady at the agency said the news was worse than we initially thought and that the boat would be delayed indefinitely. However, she did elude to another Grimaldi ship that we perhaps could be moved to which sea due on Saturday. Needless to say, Clemens and I are over the moon at this thought! After a couple of emails and phone calls, and is arranged and we now have tickets for the other Grimaldi ship called Spes. You do not understand the relief of knowing we have alternatives to spending indefinite time in Haifa. After dinner we decide to do some drinks with people from the hostel and end up getting really trashed and only get home at 3am.
Day 115, 2011/08/24 Haifa
Day 115, 2011/08/24 Haifa
Just spent time walking around Haifa trying to see find the amazing views around town and, managed to catch up with some journalling and blogging.
Just spent time walking around Haifa trying to see find the amazing views around town and, managed to catch up with some journalling and blogging.
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| Day 115, 2011/08/24 |
Day 114, 2011/08/23 Haifa
Day 114, 2011/08/23 Haifa
With some time at my disposal I decide to do the possible maintenance only bike. Since I do not have any spares to do a full service, I decide to get the air filter cleaned. In addition, I try see if I can solve my starter motor problem.
After what appears to be a successful morning, I decide to give the local agents a call. Bad news, the boat is running late, and will only be here on Sunday. Nothing more frustrating then been forced to sit and wait.
With some time at my disposal I decide to do the possible maintenance only bike. Since I do not have any spares to do a full service, I decide to get the air filter cleaned. In addition, I try see if I can solve my starter motor problem.
After what appears to be a successful morning, I decide to give the local agents a call. Bad news, the boat is running late, and will only be here on Sunday. Nothing more frustrating then been forced to sit and wait.
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| Day 114, 2011/08/23 |
Day 113, 2011/08/22 Haifa
Day 113, 2011/08/22 Haifa
With two days to kill, I decide to simply remain in Haifa. First thing on the agenda are the Bahai gardens. They are spectacular! Pity they are closed until the beginning of October for maintenance, so I only get to see a small portion of them.
I also find some amazing falafel and schwarma places and make the most of them.
With two days to kill, I decide to simply remain in Haifa. First thing on the agenda are the Bahai gardens. They are spectacular! Pity they are closed until the beginning of October for maintenance, so I only get to see a small portion of them.
I also find some amazing falafel and schwarma places and make the most of them.
Day 112, 2011/08/21 Jerusalem to Haifa
Day 112, 2011/08/21 Jerusalem to Haifa
Jerusalem has been fantastic but, I am keen to get to Haifa. My mind is playing games with me and I just want to put it at ease by getting to Haifa and close to the port. After booking a cheap hotel in Haifa, I hit the road West towards Tel Aviv. According to my calculations, it should be a relative short ride of about 180 km today. And it sure is! One thing about Israel is that it has some absolutely amazing freeways, which are easy to navigate, even without any GPS. In less than two hours I arrive in Haifa, and seek out the port. My hotel is not far from it hens, it makes for a good landmark and starting point. After stopping to ask for directions, I eventually find the Eden Hotel, my accommodation for the night. He Eden Hotel is a low budget hotel, in the heart of Haifa's CBD district called Hadar. It is nice and clean and the room has aircon, which is a necessity for me in this high humidity environment. The owner also instructs me to park my motorbike in the hotels foyer which makes me even more happy.
After securing my bike and off loading all my luggage, I decide to give the local shipping agents a call, and am told that we are still on track for departure on Wednesday. I am instructed to call back on Tuesday.
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| Day 112, 2011/08/21 |
Jerusalem has been fantastic but, I am keen to get to Haifa. My mind is playing games with me and I just want to put it at ease by getting to Haifa and close to the port. After booking a cheap hotel in Haifa, I hit the road West towards Tel Aviv. According to my calculations, it should be a relative short ride of about 180 km today. And it sure is! One thing about Israel is that it has some absolutely amazing freeways, which are easy to navigate, even without any GPS. In less than two hours I arrive in Haifa, and seek out the port. My hotel is not far from it hens, it makes for a good landmark and starting point. After stopping to ask for directions, I eventually find the Eden Hotel, my accommodation for the night. He Eden Hotel is a low budget hotel, in the heart of Haifa's CBD district called Hadar. It is nice and clean and the room has aircon, which is a necessity for me in this high humidity environment. The owner also instructs me to park my motorbike in the hotels foyer which makes me even more happy.
After securing my bike and off loading all my luggage, I decide to give the local shipping agents a call, and am told that we are still on track for departure on Wednesday. I am instructed to call back on Tuesday.
Day 111, 2011/08/20 Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho and Hebron
Day 111, 2011/08/20 Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho and Hebron
Saturdays in Israel are Shabat so, almost everything is closed. The hostel however has a guided tour that is going to the West Bank. I am always keen on getting bit sides to this story and believe there is more to this Israel than just what the Israelis have to say about it. I manage to add myself to the list and end up joining some of the fellow tourists that were on the previous days Mount Olives tour. The tour was to go to Bethlehem, Ramalha and Jericho however, as a result of much persuasion from one of the Spanish girls, it was finally changed and Ramalha gave way for Hebron. Hebron, is a city that is truly on the front line when it comes to clashes between Israelis and Palestinians. The city is largely significant to both Muslims and Jews because, the patriarch of monotheistic religions, namely Abraham,is berried beneath the main Mosque in town. Added to this, there are a number of Jewish Settlements which are situated physically in the town rather than like other cities where they are located outside. This all leads to a very tense and possible explosive situation between the Palestinians and the Jewish Settlers.
That is precisely what happened a couple of years back where a settler managed to enter the Mosque with a semi automatic weapon and ended up killing a number of Palestinians. That incident, combined with the continues acquisition of Palestinian land by Jewish Settlers has left Hebron in very high state of tension. And boy you can feel it. All access points to the Mosque, bar one, have been closed, and access to that one is turn is manned by heavy armed Israeli solders. Also, numerous roads have been cordoned off, shops closed and passage limited to only Jewish Settlers, or Non Palestinian foreigners. So we manage to enter however, our guides were not. Felt like was back in the apartheid years in South Africa. Amazing! Well not really, actually extremely sad that, is this day and age, that these situations still exist! Truly eyeopening!
After seeing first had what life is like as a Palestinian in the occupied territories we head back to Bethlehem to do the normal touristy sites. After an amazing late lunch of humus, chickpeas and felafel, it is off to the church of the nativity. The church itself is rather plain all things considered, but apparently it is because the church is under the control of more than one christian group and hence reaching consensus on what needs to be done to restore it, is seldom reached. That is why I love religion so much! The church has a chamber below it where apparently Jesus was born. A big star marks the spot. I simply take a picture but, many pilgrims take turns to get down on their knees to kiss the spot.
We still want to see Jericho, so we are all bungled into the bus and head off. Not far out of town we are however on fronted with a large traffic jam which proceeds to delay us for two hours. The cause of this delay, an impromptu Israeli roadblock. Lovely stuff! We are told by our guide that these are common in the occupied territories and cause major disruption to peoples day to day lives. Needless to say this road block screws up our plans of getting to see Jericho. Well, I guess this life in the West Bank!
I get back to the hostel at around 7pm and quickly confirm my dinner arrangements with Errol. Errol is an old work colleague of mine. We use to work together at eBucks many years back. He has subsequently immigrated to Israel and now lives in Jerusalem. Fortunately, he does not live far from the hostel, so manage to meet him close to his side of town. We catchup on all that has happened in the last couple of years and he explains to me why he has immigrated to Israel. He is full of questions on my trip and I tell him all he wants to know.
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| Day 111, 2011/08/20 |
Saturdays in Israel are Shabat so, almost everything is closed. The hostel however has a guided tour that is going to the West Bank. I am always keen on getting bit sides to this story and believe there is more to this Israel than just what the Israelis have to say about it. I manage to add myself to the list and end up joining some of the fellow tourists that were on the previous days Mount Olives tour. The tour was to go to Bethlehem, Ramalha and Jericho however, as a result of much persuasion from one of the Spanish girls, it was finally changed and Ramalha gave way for Hebron. Hebron, is a city that is truly on the front line when it comes to clashes between Israelis and Palestinians. The city is largely significant to both Muslims and Jews because, the patriarch of monotheistic religions, namely Abraham,is berried beneath the main Mosque in town. Added to this, there are a number of Jewish Settlements which are situated physically in the town rather than like other cities where they are located outside. This all leads to a very tense and possible explosive situation between the Palestinians and the Jewish Settlers.
That is precisely what happened a couple of years back where a settler managed to enter the Mosque with a semi automatic weapon and ended up killing a number of Palestinians. That incident, combined with the continues acquisition of Palestinian land by Jewish Settlers has left Hebron in very high state of tension. And boy you can feel it. All access points to the Mosque, bar one, have been closed, and access to that one is turn is manned by heavy armed Israeli solders. Also, numerous roads have been cordoned off, shops closed and passage limited to only Jewish Settlers, or Non Palestinian foreigners. So we manage to enter however, our guides were not. Felt like was back in the apartheid years in South Africa. Amazing! Well not really, actually extremely sad that, is this day and age, that these situations still exist! Truly eyeopening!
After seeing first had what life is like as a Palestinian in the occupied territories we head back to Bethlehem to do the normal touristy sites. After an amazing late lunch of humus, chickpeas and felafel, it is off to the church of the nativity. The church itself is rather plain all things considered, but apparently it is because the church is under the control of more than one christian group and hence reaching consensus on what needs to be done to restore it, is seldom reached. That is why I love religion so much! The church has a chamber below it where apparently Jesus was born. A big star marks the spot. I simply take a picture but, many pilgrims take turns to get down on their knees to kiss the spot.
We still want to see Jericho, so we are all bungled into the bus and head off. Not far out of town we are however on fronted with a large traffic jam which proceeds to delay us for two hours. The cause of this delay, an impromptu Israeli roadblock. Lovely stuff! We are told by our guide that these are common in the occupied territories and cause major disruption to peoples day to day lives. Needless to say this road block screws up our plans of getting to see Jericho. Well, I guess this life in the West Bank!
I get back to the hostel at around 7pm and quickly confirm my dinner arrangements with Errol. Errol is an old work colleague of mine. We use to work together at eBucks many years back. He has subsequently immigrated to Israel and now lives in Jerusalem. Fortunately, he does not live far from the hostel, so manage to meet him close to his side of town. We catchup on all that has happened in the last couple of years and he explains to me why he has immigrated to Israel. He is full of questions on my trip and I tell him all he wants to know.
Day 110, 2011/08/19 Jerusalem
Day 110, 2011/08/19 Jerusalem
I decide to sleep in a little and then make an attempt to catchup on some of my blogging and uploading of website. I eventually find an internet cafe where I am able to connect my iPad and get the job done.
Later in the afternoon, I decide to attend the guided tour to Mount of Olives. It is also very interesting since we visit some interesting sites such as, the place where Jesus is believed to have ascended to heaven, the Jewish cemetery, the field where the shepherds apparently spotted the star of in the sky the night Jesus was born, and also the garden of getsemine. Not bad for a single afternoon! After the tour, a number of us decide that, since it is Friday afternoon, and Shabat is approaching, a visit to the Wailing wall would be appropriate. The wall, on a Friday evening, is full of singing, dancing and celebrations. The only problem is that, we have to make our way from the Zion gate to the Wailing wall, in "peak hour traffic" in the Muslim Quater. Not am experience, I would like to repeat again soon. There were a number of situations where the situation could have easily resulted on a stampede and, to make maters worse, there were also situations where fully armed Israeli soldiers simply barged their way through the crowds. This create a lot of tension amongst the Muslims and on a number of occasions, the words "Allah Akbar" were shouted. This is normally what suicide bombers say before they blow themselves up! Lovely!
Anyway, after much pushing and shoving, we finally make the Wailing Wall. The celebrations are not as elaborate as perhaps I was expecting, but interesting enough to have gone to the effort.
The only downside of Israel over Shabat is that, EVERYTHING shuts down and it actually is difficult to find anything open. So a number of us decide to head for the Armenian restaurant for a lovely dinner before taking the long walk back to the hostel for some well earned rest.
I decide to sleep in a little and then make an attempt to catchup on some of my blogging and uploading of website. I eventually find an internet cafe where I am able to connect my iPad and get the job done.
Later in the afternoon, I decide to attend the guided tour to Mount of Olives. It is also very interesting since we visit some interesting sites such as, the place where Jesus is believed to have ascended to heaven, the Jewish cemetery, the field where the shepherds apparently spotted the star of in the sky the night Jesus was born, and also the garden of getsemine. Not bad for a single afternoon! After the tour, a number of us decide that, since it is Friday afternoon, and Shabat is approaching, a visit to the Wailing wall would be appropriate. The wall, on a Friday evening, is full of singing, dancing and celebrations. The only problem is that, we have to make our way from the Zion gate to the Wailing wall, in "peak hour traffic" in the Muslim Quater. Not am experience, I would like to repeat again soon. There were a number of situations where the situation could have easily resulted on a stampede and, to make maters worse, there were also situations where fully armed Israeli soldiers simply barged their way through the crowds. This create a lot of tension amongst the Muslims and on a number of occasions, the words "Allah Akbar" were shouted. This is normally what suicide bombers say before they blow themselves up! Lovely!
Anyway, after much pushing and shoving, we finally make the Wailing Wall. The celebrations are not as elaborate as perhaps I was expecting, but interesting enough to have gone to the effort.
The only downside of Israel over Shabat is that, EVERYTHING shuts down and it actually is difficult to find anything open. So a number of us decide to head for the Armenian restaurant for a lovely dinner before taking the long walk back to the hostel for some well earned rest.
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| Day 110, 2011/08/19 |
Day 109, 2011/08/18 Masada to Jerusalem
Day 109, 2011/08/18 Masada to Jerusalem
I have the option of getting up before dawn and climbing Masada or, taking the cable cable to the top or, going for a swim in the Dead Sea. I must admit, the fact that i have had to get up at some ghastly hour the previous day, does not put me in the mood for climbing Masada also, I would then return hot and sweaty and still need to prepare my bike, and myself for the relatively short ride to Jerusalem. I do recall that, the previous day it was very hot witness all that biking gear on so, perhaps am early, leisurely start to the day is perhaps the best option. Also, i no longer have the assistance of my GPS to guide me so, I will have to navigate Jerusalem, in search of my hostel, most probably during the baking heat. So, I think I will heed to the side of caution and take the easier option. After my first true, israeli breakfast, which is full of fresh produce, which is a welcome relief from all the fried eggs I have been comforted with on my trip, I hot the road at approximately 9 am. Well I try that is, the bike is playing up like the previous day in Dahab. The starter motor appears to be giving problems. At least this time, I have a decline I can use to assist me in getting the bike up and running, even if fully laden. After discussing the various possible routes to Jerusalem with the friendly guy at reception, I decide to take the shorter, more direct route to Jerusalem, through the West Bank. This also follows alongside the Dead Sea, which would make for some amazing scenery. The ride is not long and within an hour and a half, I arrive on the outskirts of Jerusalem. I see road signs that point to places like Ramalha, Bethlehem and Hebron. Hell, those are places one hears about all the time when there is reference to Palestine on the news, and here I am on a road that has signs pointing to it! I follow the signs however, that lead towards the CBD, and the Old City. The map I bought in Dahab, has shown that, my hostel is within walking distance of the Old City. The road leads me through a tunnel and shortly afterwards, I drive over a rise, and there it is, the Old City! What gives it away, is the huge mosque with the Golden dome called the Dome of the Rock. I mat admit, I am bowled over that, I have managed to ride my bike all the way here, and it is at that moment that, I am made aware of perhaps how remarkable my achievement has been. Up until now, I have been playing down the entire experience to people that ask. I keep on saying, "it is not that difficult", "any one can do it", etc,etc,etc! But here I am, riding my old bike, the ever reliable one into Jerusalem, the most sacred place in the entire religious world! And yes, I have travelled 14000 km to get here!
After the euphoria subsides, I am immediately confronted with the fact that, i still need find my hostel. It is not long until I find the road on which my hostel is located and then not long before I find the hostel itself. It is the Abraham Youth Hostel, and appears to be pleasant enough.
After checking in, I discover there is a free tour of the Old City that afternoon at 2:30 pm, and decide to attend. The tour is run by a company which offer this tour for free, you may however, at the end of it, donate what you thought the tour was worth to the guide as a tip. Very novel concept, especially in this modern world of ours. The tour was extremely extensive and, in the three hours we managed to cover all four quarters that constitute the Old City. We also managed to visit the wailing/western wall. The dome of the rock was however closed since, it was Ramadan and hence only open later in the evening to Muslims.
I have the option of getting up before dawn and climbing Masada or, taking the cable cable to the top or, going for a swim in the Dead Sea. I must admit, the fact that i have had to get up at some ghastly hour the previous day, does not put me in the mood for climbing Masada also, I would then return hot and sweaty and still need to prepare my bike, and myself for the relatively short ride to Jerusalem. I do recall that, the previous day it was very hot witness all that biking gear on so, perhaps am early, leisurely start to the day is perhaps the best option. Also, i no longer have the assistance of my GPS to guide me so, I will have to navigate Jerusalem, in search of my hostel, most probably during the baking heat. So, I think I will heed to the side of caution and take the easier option. After my first true, israeli breakfast, which is full of fresh produce, which is a welcome relief from all the fried eggs I have been comforted with on my trip, I hot the road at approximately 9 am. Well I try that is, the bike is playing up like the previous day in Dahab. The starter motor appears to be giving problems. At least this time, I have a decline I can use to assist me in getting the bike up and running, even if fully laden. After discussing the various possible routes to Jerusalem with the friendly guy at reception, I decide to take the shorter, more direct route to Jerusalem, through the West Bank. This also follows alongside the Dead Sea, which would make for some amazing scenery. The ride is not long and within an hour and a half, I arrive on the outskirts of Jerusalem. I see road signs that point to places like Ramalha, Bethlehem and Hebron. Hell, those are places one hears about all the time when there is reference to Palestine on the news, and here I am on a road that has signs pointing to it! I follow the signs however, that lead towards the CBD, and the Old City. The map I bought in Dahab, has shown that, my hostel is within walking distance of the Old City. The road leads me through a tunnel and shortly afterwards, I drive over a rise, and there it is, the Old City! What gives it away, is the huge mosque with the Golden dome called the Dome of the Rock. I mat admit, I am bowled over that, I have managed to ride my bike all the way here, and it is at that moment that, I am made aware of perhaps how remarkable my achievement has been. Up until now, I have been playing down the entire experience to people that ask. I keep on saying, "it is not that difficult", "any one can do it", etc,etc,etc! But here I am, riding my old bike, the ever reliable one into Jerusalem, the most sacred place in the entire religious world! And yes, I have travelled 14000 km to get here!
After the euphoria subsides, I am immediately confronted with the fact that, i still need find my hostel. It is not long until I find the road on which my hostel is located and then not long before I find the hostel itself. It is the Abraham Youth Hostel, and appears to be pleasant enough.
After checking in, I discover there is a free tour of the Old City that afternoon at 2:30 pm, and decide to attend. The tour is run by a company which offer this tour for free, you may however, at the end of it, donate what you thought the tour was worth to the guide as a tip. Very novel concept, especially in this modern world of ours. The tour was extremely extensive and, in the three hours we managed to cover all four quarters that constitute the Old City. We also managed to visit the wailing/western wall. The dome of the rock was however closed since, it was Ramadan and hence only open later in the evening to Muslims.
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| Day 109, 2011/08/18 |
Wednesday 24 August 2011
Day 108, 2011/08/17 Dahab to Masada in Israel via Taba and Eilat
Day 108, 2011/08/17 Dahab to Masada in Israel via Taba and Eilat
I have spent almost a week here in Dahab, and it is time to move on. I have given myself a full week to travel to Haifa in Israel. I want to make sure I have some spare time on my hands incase something goes wrong with the bike etc. I know from this point on, trying to keep within my budget is going to be tough. Africa jas been cheap however, Israel is like Europe, and expensive. As an example, here in Dahab I have managed to get a hotel room for R120 per night, while in Israel I am battling to get a a single bed in a dorm room for less that R200 per night. As for the fuel, well in Egypt it is a crazy R2.10 per liter, while in Israel it is almost R15 per liter. Yeah say no more! I am only about 120 km from the border post with Israel called Taba. I know it is going to be a long day trying to get through the border post so, book an overnight stop in Masada on the Dead Sea. I am up very early and packed by the time comes up at 5 am. All is going according to plan until I hit a problem with my bike. It simply will not start. All the lights etc come on however, the starter motor does not want to turn over. Oh shit! And it would happen once i have fully loaded the bike and am about to climb onto it with all my hike gear already on. It may be 5 am in the morning however, the temp is already unbearable for anyone wearing log pants, let alone biking gear! To add salt to the wound, there is no downhill in sight! Great, so i call the front desk Clark over and ask him for a push. Luckily we manage to get her running. I quickly put on my hamlet and hit the road North. In what appears no time, I arrive at the Taba border post. What i did not expect was the length of time i would have to spend at the Egyptian border post. I had to unpack all my panniers and have them scanned. For what? Who knows? Anyway, this Africa/Middle East so we do not argue, we just follow instructions. Anyway, almost an hour later I manage to cross the border onto the Israeli side. I am met by an absolutely drop dead gorgeous security guard on that side. In hindsight, I was wondering if this a tack tick for one to drop one's guard! Anyway, I had to also unpack everything and it all got scanned, in addition, I had to hand over the keys to my bike. What I did not know at the time was that, my bike was going to be taken to a workshop where it to would be scrutinized, and I would not be surprised if they added some form of tracking device to it to! Anyway, eventually I make it past the scanning counter after they find exception with my cooking gas canister and of all things my tyre compressor. I am starting to think that I am almost through when I hit the immigration/passport counter. Having a Sudanese stamp in one's South African passport in not a good thing to have when you attempting to enter Israel. I am iterigated for a number of times and made to wait for over four hours. At least the eye candy on display at the border post is nothing short of stunning! And they all work for security or passport control. At one point I was hoping they would subject me to a strip search, which of course does not happen! Eventually, after almost 5 hours of border post formalities, my passport is stamped and I am free to enter. By this stage it is getting close to midday,precisely the time of say i was not wanting to travel in. At least I have only 220 odd km to travel to Masada, and after arranging 3rd party insurance I hit the road. The Negev desert is nice and hot but in almost no time I arrive at the Dead Sea. What an amazing sight! There are places that are so salty that, it looks like ice/snow! Amazing! It is not log before I arrive at my overnight accommodation. It is the Masada Youth Hostel. Really lovely, clean place. Well worth the price tag!
I have spent almost a week here in Dahab, and it is time to move on. I have given myself a full week to travel to Haifa in Israel. I want to make sure I have some spare time on my hands incase something goes wrong with the bike etc. I know from this point on, trying to keep within my budget is going to be tough. Africa jas been cheap however, Israel is like Europe, and expensive. As an example, here in Dahab I have managed to get a hotel room for R120 per night, while in Israel I am battling to get a a single bed in a dorm room for less that R200 per night. As for the fuel, well in Egypt it is a crazy R2.10 per liter, while in Israel it is almost R15 per liter. Yeah say no more! I am only about 120 km from the border post with Israel called Taba. I know it is going to be a long day trying to get through the border post so, book an overnight stop in Masada on the Dead Sea. I am up very early and packed by the time comes up at 5 am. All is going according to plan until I hit a problem with my bike. It simply will not start. All the lights etc come on however, the starter motor does not want to turn over. Oh shit! And it would happen once i have fully loaded the bike and am about to climb onto it with all my hike gear already on. It may be 5 am in the morning however, the temp is already unbearable for anyone wearing log pants, let alone biking gear! To add salt to the wound, there is no downhill in sight! Great, so i call the front desk Clark over and ask him for a push. Luckily we manage to get her running. I quickly put on my hamlet and hit the road North. In what appears no time, I arrive at the Taba border post. What i did not expect was the length of time i would have to spend at the Egyptian border post. I had to unpack all my panniers and have them scanned. For what? Who knows? Anyway, this Africa/Middle East so we do not argue, we just follow instructions. Anyway, almost an hour later I manage to cross the border onto the Israeli side. I am met by an absolutely drop dead gorgeous security guard on that side. In hindsight, I was wondering if this a tack tick for one to drop one's guard! Anyway, I had to also unpack everything and it all got scanned, in addition, I had to hand over the keys to my bike. What I did not know at the time was that, my bike was going to be taken to a workshop where it to would be scrutinized, and I would not be surprised if they added some form of tracking device to it to! Anyway, eventually I make it past the scanning counter after they find exception with my cooking gas canister and of all things my tyre compressor. I am starting to think that I am almost through when I hit the immigration/passport counter. Having a Sudanese stamp in one's South African passport in not a good thing to have when you attempting to enter Israel. I am iterigated for a number of times and made to wait for over four hours. At least the eye candy on display at the border post is nothing short of stunning! And they all work for security or passport control. At one point I was hoping they would subject me to a strip search, which of course does not happen! Eventually, after almost 5 hours of border post formalities, my passport is stamped and I am free to enter. By this stage it is getting close to midday,precisely the time of say i was not wanting to travel in. At least I have only 220 odd km to travel to Masada, and after arranging 3rd party insurance I hit the road. The Negev desert is nice and hot but in almost no time I arrive at the Dead Sea. What an amazing sight! There are places that are so salty that, it looks like ice/snow! Amazing! It is not log before I arrive at my overnight accommodation. It is the Masada Youth Hostel. Really lovely, clean place. Well worth the price tag!
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| Day 108, 2011/08/17 |
Day 107, 2011/08/16 Dahab
Day 107, 2011/08/16 Dahab
My last day on Dahab and I have decided to take it easy. Nothing on the itinerary except beach, sun, cocktails and a lovely dinner. I meet up with the truck overlanders again for dinner. They went sooooo big the previous night they all are drinking cool drinks. We end up going for dinner at the Chinese place where I order crispy friend duck. Not great, certainly would never order that again! Oh how i miss Soi in Melville Johannesburg at times like this.
My last day on Dahab and I have decided to take it easy. Nothing on the itinerary except beach, sun, cocktails and a lovely dinner. I meet up with the truck overlanders again for dinner. They went sooooo big the previous night they all are drinking cool drinks. We end up going for dinner at the Chinese place where I order crispy friend duck. Not great, certainly would never order that again! Oh how i miss Soi in Melville Johannesburg at times like this.
Day 106, 2011/08/15 Dahab
Day 106, 2011/08/15 Dahab
With only two more days in Dahab, I have decided to do some more diving today. Today, we head south, along the dry, barren landscape in search of some dive spots. There is myself and a Polish couple with their father in tow. They are 30m divers so, once again, i have my own personal dive master. The two dive sights we visit are Um el Sid and Golden Blocks. On the second doe. Over shoot the exit point and end up having to do some swimming with all our diving gear on. Fun!
On returning to Dahab city itself, I bump into the overland truckers again. Great to see them again. They are here for 5 days of R&R. It is Gerom's birthday so needless to say, the everyone goes huge!
With only two more days in Dahab, I have decided to do some more diving today. Today, we head south, along the dry, barren landscape in search of some dive spots. There is myself and a Polish couple with their father in tow. They are 30m divers so, once again, i have my own personal dive master. The two dive sights we visit are Um el Sid and Golden Blocks. On the second doe. Over shoot the exit point and end up having to do some swimming with all our diving gear on. Fun!
On returning to Dahab city itself, I bump into the overland truckers again. Great to see them again. They are here for 5 days of R&R. It is Gerom's birthday so needless to say, the everyone goes huge!
Day 105, 2011/08/14 Dahab
Day 105, 2011/08/14 Dahab
I have always want to ride a horse along a beach. The beaches are beyond amazing here so the decision wether to go riding is a no brainer! The guide picked me up from the hotel. Him on a brown horse, and I on some grey one. The horses here look so thin and underfed that, I feel sorry for the horse and the fact that it has to carry my fat ass. However, the horse appears to cope just fine. We head towards the quiet beaches of the big lagoon in Dahab, where the only other people around are the kite and wind surfers. We did some slow walking and some awesome galloping along the beach. Wow! It was amazing. Definitely something I will do that again. Perhaps drag Joni with, with Kayla in tow!
I have always want to ride a horse along a beach. The beaches are beyond amazing here so the decision wether to go riding is a no brainer! The guide picked me up from the hotel. Him on a brown horse, and I on some grey one. The horses here look so thin and underfed that, I feel sorry for the horse and the fact that it has to carry my fat ass. However, the horse appears to cope just fine. We head towards the quiet beaches of the big lagoon in Dahab, where the only other people around are the kite and wind surfers. We did some slow walking and some awesome galloping along the beach. Wow! It was amazing. Definitely something I will do that again. Perhaps drag Joni with, with Kayla in tow!
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| Day 105, 2011/08/14 |
Day 104, 2011/08/13 Dahab
Day 104, 2011/08/13 Dahab
After two days of vegetating, I decide that it is time for me to get off my lazy ass and do sone diving. I decided to do two dives with Backpackers Divers. With the reefs along the shore front, the dives here involve beach entries. The morning dive was at a reef called The Lighthouse. One does not have to venture more than 30m from the shoreline before you arrive at the reefs, and wow are they amazing!
The afternoon dive os a little further up the shoreline, at a place called Eels Garden. Appropriate called since there are hundreds of eels in the sand banks, which come out when you are at a distance. The entry is amazing, one has to swim through a canyon of coral reefs which, is amazing in itself.
After two days of vegetating, I decide that it is time for me to get off my lazy ass and do sone diving. I decided to do two dives with Backpackers Divers. With the reefs along the shore front, the dives here involve beach entries. The morning dive was at a reef called The Lighthouse. One does not have to venture more than 30m from the shoreline before you arrive at the reefs, and wow are they amazing!
The afternoon dive os a little further up the shoreline, at a place called Eels Garden. Appropriate called since there are hundreds of eels in the sand banks, which come out when you are at a distance. The entry is amazing, one has to swim through a canyon of coral reefs which, is amazing in itself.
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| Day 104, 2011/08/13 |
Day 103, 2011/08/12 Dahab
Day 103, 2011/08/12 Dahab
I have decided to take it easy, and do absolutely nothing except chill and relax on the beach and have a couple of beers at Yalla Bar.
I have decided to take it easy, and do absolutely nothing except chill and relax on the beach and have a couple of beers at Yalla Bar.
Day 102, 2011/08/11 Dahab
Day 102, 2011/08/11 Dahab
I have decided to take it easy, and do absolutely nothing except chill and relax on the beach and have a couple of beers at Yalla Bar.
I have decided to take it easy, and do absolutely nothing except chill and relax on the beach and have a couple of beers at Yalla Bar.
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| Day 102, 2011/08/11 |
Friday 12 August 2011
Day 101, 2011/08/10 Cairo to Dahab on Red Sea
Day 101, 2011/08/10 Cairo to Dahab on Red Sea
I must admit, the thought of leaving Cairo has been haunting me since I arrived in that horrendous traffic on Sunday. Not that the traffic was bad, more like it was just simply too overwhelming. Anyway, I have been doing some observations and have discovered that, the city comes to a grinding halt at about 4 am. To the point where, there is no hooting! Believe it or not! So I have decided that, since the sunrise is at 5 am, I will make sure that,i am ready to hit the road by then.
What a perfect decision! The roads were almost entirely deserted, and I was able to negotiate the streets and highways with ease. What a pleasure! Nice to be able to ride without stressing about being killed at every turn. The temperature is also perfect and I am able to cover the 120 km to Suez in no time. Suez turns out to be a big port city, with loads, upon loads of military everywhere. Well if you start to understand the canals strategic importance for the the entire worlds shipping, you can perhaps appreciate why there is soo much military.
I must admit, I was unable to see the actual canal itself, or any of the ships in it, which was a disappointment. Instead, I was routed through a tunnel benief the channel which, was amazing in itself.
Once on the other side, it was a case of crossing the breadth of the Sania peninsula from West to East. That involved crossing a 300 km stretch of desert which contained some amazing scenery. Eventually after almost 7 hours in the saddle and, almost 600 km completed for the day, I eventually arrive in the city of Dahab. The Yasmina is the hotel which will host me for the next couple of days. Beach, sun, sea, diving etc is an amazing way to spend the next 7 days!
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| Day 101, 2011/08/10 |
I must admit, the thought of leaving Cairo has been haunting me since I arrived in that horrendous traffic on Sunday. Not that the traffic was bad, more like it was just simply too overwhelming. Anyway, I have been doing some observations and have discovered that, the city comes to a grinding halt at about 4 am. To the point where, there is no hooting! Believe it or not! So I have decided that, since the sunrise is at 5 am, I will make sure that,i am ready to hit the road by then.
What a perfect decision! The roads were almost entirely deserted, and I was able to negotiate the streets and highways with ease. What a pleasure! Nice to be able to ride without stressing about being killed at every turn. The temperature is also perfect and I am able to cover the 120 km to Suez in no time. Suez turns out to be a big port city, with loads, upon loads of military everywhere. Well if you start to understand the canals strategic importance for the the entire worlds shipping, you can perhaps appreciate why there is soo much military.
I must admit, I was unable to see the actual canal itself, or any of the ships in it, which was a disappointment. Instead, I was routed through a tunnel benief the channel which, was amazing in itself.
Once on the other side, it was a case of crossing the breadth of the Sania peninsula from West to East. That involved crossing a 300 km stretch of desert which contained some amazing scenery. Eventually after almost 7 hours in the saddle and, almost 600 km completed for the day, I eventually arrive in the city of Dahab. The Yasmina is the hotel which will host me for the next couple of days. Beach, sun, sea, diving etc is an amazing way to spend the next 7 days!
Day 100, 2011/08/09 Cairo
Day 100, 2011/08/09 Cairo
After 100 days on the road, I decide to take it extremely easy and just sit and chill. That is precisely what I did, and at the same time caught up on some journalling.
After 100 days on the road, I decide to take it extremely easy and just sit and chill. That is precisely what I did, and at the same time caught up on some journalling.
Day 99, 2011/08/08 Cairo
Day 99, 2011/08/08 Cairo
What would a visit to Cairo be without a visit to the pyramids. This is my first visit to Cairo and thus, have to make the traditional pilgrimage to Giza as part of my stay. The hotel managed to arrange my own private taxi for the entire day, at a reasonable cost. Wadia was there at 8:30 sharp to pick me up. First stop was Giza and the pyramids and sphinx. It was truly amazing to see the pure size and scale of those things. Amazing what egos people must have had to want to build such structures to put themselves in. Then off to Sakkara, and this time some small tombs and, an example of a stepped pyramid. Also got to see the inside of one of the smaller pyramids. Amazing how they managed to construct those things with access tunnels and all.
Then off to Dahshur, and the Bent and Red pyramids. These are also some of the biggest in Egypt but, perhaps lesser known. The nice thing about this sights that, at no additional cost, you get the opportunity to see the inside of the Red pyramid at no extra cost. Just that, no one tells you what physical exercise it is going to be, until you do it. The access tunnel starts halfway up the one side of the pyramid, and drops deep down inside the pyramid. Needless to say, i was out of breath by the time I had finished. The pyramid contains three separate chambers at the core of the structure, truely amazing feet of engineering. Then finally off to Memphis, no not Teensy, and to see some artifacts, the most impressive is one of Ramesis II. It is a colossal statue of himself, well half of it, and it is flat as it no longer has any legs.
Finally, in the heat and chaos of Cairo traffic, we make our way back to my hotel and an afternoon of R&R. Life in Africa is hectic!
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| Day 99, 2011/08/08 |
What would a visit to Cairo be without a visit to the pyramids. This is my first visit to Cairo and thus, have to make the traditional pilgrimage to Giza as part of my stay. The hotel managed to arrange my own private taxi for the entire day, at a reasonable cost. Wadia was there at 8:30 sharp to pick me up. First stop was Giza and the pyramids and sphinx. It was truly amazing to see the pure size and scale of those things. Amazing what egos people must have had to want to build such structures to put themselves in. Then off to Sakkara, and this time some small tombs and, an example of a stepped pyramid. Also got to see the inside of one of the smaller pyramids. Amazing how they managed to construct those things with access tunnels and all.
Then off to Dahshur, and the Bent and Red pyramids. These are also some of the biggest in Egypt but, perhaps lesser known. The nice thing about this sights that, at no additional cost, you get the opportunity to see the inside of the Red pyramid at no extra cost. Just that, no one tells you what physical exercise it is going to be, until you do it. The access tunnel starts halfway up the one side of the pyramid, and drops deep down inside the pyramid. Needless to say, i was out of breath by the time I had finished. The pyramid contains three separate chambers at the core of the structure, truely amazing feet of engineering. Then finally off to Memphis, no not Teensy, and to see some artifacts, the most impressive is one of Ramesis II. It is a colossal statue of himself, well half of it, and it is flat as it no longer has any legs.
Finally, in the heat and chaos of Cairo traffic, we make our way back to my hotel and an afternoon of R&R. Life in Africa is hectic!
Tuesday 9 August 2011
Day 98, 2011/08/07 Hurghada to Cairo
Day 98, 2011/08/07 Hurghada to Cairo
I have decided to not go to Suez but rather go directly to Cairo. The distance is less than I expected and being 450 km, it is most certainly manageable in one day. I get up early to make sure I miss the intense midday heat, and am on the road by 6 am. As I progress along the road, fighting some extremely strong headwinds, does the magnitude of today's ride start to cement itself in my mind. Yeah, I am only 450 km from crossing Africa! Well Johannesburg, I'd not Cape Town, and I guess to be accurate, I should infect get to Alexandria and the Mediterranean to be precise but, for all intense and purposes, I would have accomplished all those 98 days ago. As Cairo gets closer, I can feel the excitement slowly build up in me and I start to appreciate what an accomplishment it is. Many are keen to do something like this but never have balls, funds, time to. Yeah I guess how many modern day working people, with family commitments, can afford to do something like this. Not many, let alone the fact that many of us in the modern world are too busy chasing money to stop and smell the roses and actually there is more to life than big pay cheques, fancy cars and snobbish suburbs!
Anyway, the road North follows the coast almost the entire way, passing many oil fields and refineries. I even happen to go past the biggest wind farm I have ever seen. It is so long that, it stretches for over 10km. Impressive!
The road eventually turns away from the coast approximately 50 km from Suez and heads North Westerly 120 km towards Cairo. The road is pleasantly quiet until about 20 km from Cairo, when I hit the infamous Ring Road. Oh boy,what a nightmare! It is a 4 lane highway. Not that anyone actually uses the lanes to travel in. And almost all the cars have dents and scratches on them! Not the kind of stuff you want to start riding thru after about 5 hours of bike riding! Also, the GPS has a limited road set, so I battle at a number of junctions on the highway to be in the correct lane for the split offs. Not fun! It feels like a real live version of those Play Station arcade games, like Need for speed, or gone in 60 seconds! Just everyone else is in a car, and i am the only idiot on a bike!
After negotiating about 15 km of Ring Road, i finally get routed off the freeway onto a main road and into the backup traffic. It is about 12 noon, and the temp must be close to 35 degrees. So I start to melt in my biking gear. One nightmare into another! I force myself through the traffic and manage to scratch numerous cars with my soft panniers. In South Africa, i would have been shot dead by tue motorists for that, no one blinks an eye here. The GPS eventually routes me through Tahrir Square, where the Egyptian Revolution of 25 th January this year h taken place. The place is wall to wall army and riot police however, i am not overcome by fear and feel actually very safe. It is not far from there that I find my hotel for my stay,The Berlin Hotel. It has aircon and safe parking, what else can a biker ask for!
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| Day 98, 2011/08/07 |
I have decided to not go to Suez but rather go directly to Cairo. The distance is less than I expected and being 450 km, it is most certainly manageable in one day. I get up early to make sure I miss the intense midday heat, and am on the road by 6 am. As I progress along the road, fighting some extremely strong headwinds, does the magnitude of today's ride start to cement itself in my mind. Yeah, I am only 450 km from crossing Africa! Well Johannesburg, I'd not Cape Town, and I guess to be accurate, I should infect get to Alexandria and the Mediterranean to be precise but, for all intense and purposes, I would have accomplished all those 98 days ago. As Cairo gets closer, I can feel the excitement slowly build up in me and I start to appreciate what an accomplishment it is. Many are keen to do something like this but never have balls, funds, time to. Yeah I guess how many modern day working people, with family commitments, can afford to do something like this. Not many, let alone the fact that many of us in the modern world are too busy chasing money to stop and smell the roses and actually there is more to life than big pay cheques, fancy cars and snobbish suburbs!
Anyway, the road North follows the coast almost the entire way, passing many oil fields and refineries. I even happen to go past the biggest wind farm I have ever seen. It is so long that, it stretches for over 10km. Impressive!
The road eventually turns away from the coast approximately 50 km from Suez and heads North Westerly 120 km towards Cairo. The road is pleasantly quiet until about 20 km from Cairo, when I hit the infamous Ring Road. Oh boy,what a nightmare! It is a 4 lane highway. Not that anyone actually uses the lanes to travel in. And almost all the cars have dents and scratches on them! Not the kind of stuff you want to start riding thru after about 5 hours of bike riding! Also, the GPS has a limited road set, so I battle at a number of junctions on the highway to be in the correct lane for the split offs. Not fun! It feels like a real live version of those Play Station arcade games, like Need for speed, or gone in 60 seconds! Just everyone else is in a car, and i am the only idiot on a bike!
After negotiating about 15 km of Ring Road, i finally get routed off the freeway onto a main road and into the backup traffic. It is about 12 noon, and the temp must be close to 35 degrees. So I start to melt in my biking gear. One nightmare into another! I force myself through the traffic and manage to scratch numerous cars with my soft panniers. In South Africa, i would have been shot dead by tue motorists for that, no one blinks an eye here. The GPS eventually routes me through Tahrir Square, where the Egyptian Revolution of 25 th January this year h taken place. The place is wall to wall army and riot police however, i am not overcome by fear and feel actually very safe. It is not far from there that I find my hotel for my stay,The Berlin Hotel. It has aircon and safe parking, what else can a biker ask for!
Day 97, 2011/08/06 Hurghada
Day 97, 2011/08/06 Hurghada
Nothing really planed, so decided to chill on the beach an catch some suns rays while reading my book.
Nothing really planed, so decided to chill on the beach an catch some suns rays while reading my book.
Day 96, 2011/08/05 Hurghada
Day 96, 2011/08/05 Hurghada
The Red Sea is notorious for being one of the best places to go diving or/and snorkeling. So I have decided to go diving today with the small dive shop Dinos. I am there only diver for the day so, I get to five with the dive master. How is that for first class treatment. We get transported to the port where we jump onto a boat with other divers from another diving shop. I guess this is how it works. Each dive shop has their own dive gear, they then rent space on dive boats who take people out to sea. Logical enough!
The others onboard are from Holland and Russian. I must admit, there are loads of Russian/Eastern Block tourists here, even many sighs are written in Cyrillic.
The reef is not far from the coast, and the boat trip is a mere 30 min. Both dives are amazing and I get to see loads on lion fish, rays, eels, stone fish etc. The two dives are separated by a lovely spread of local food for lunch.
The diving was very good, just not as amazing as I recall when I was in Sharm el Sheikh ten years ago. Perhaps it is not as nice here as it is there or, perhaps over commercialization has destroyed the corals here. Will have to do more diving in Sanai and then see how it compares.
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| Day 96, 2011/08/05 |
The Red Sea is notorious for being one of the best places to go diving or/and snorkeling. So I have decided to go diving today with the small dive shop Dinos. I am there only diver for the day so, I get to five with the dive master. How is that for first class treatment. We get transported to the port where we jump onto a boat with other divers from another diving shop. I guess this is how it works. Each dive shop has their own dive gear, they then rent space on dive boats who take people out to sea. Logical enough!
The others onboard are from Holland and Russian. I must admit, there are loads of Russian/Eastern Block tourists here, even many sighs are written in Cyrillic.
The reef is not far from the coast, and the boat trip is a mere 30 min. Both dives are amazing and I get to see loads on lion fish, rays, eels, stone fish etc. The two dives are separated by a lovely spread of local food for lunch.
The diving was very good, just not as amazing as I recall when I was in Sharm el Sheikh ten years ago. Perhaps it is not as nice here as it is there or, perhaps over commercialization has destroyed the corals here. Will have to do more diving in Sanai and then see how it compares.
Day 95, 2011/08/04 Luxor to Hurghada and the Red Sea
Day 95, 2011/08/04 Luxor to Hurghada and the Red Sea
Time to move North again, this time Way from the Nile and towards the Red Sea and perhaps some cooler weather. The trip today is not long, it is under 300 km but, to avoid the heat, I am on the road by 6am. The first section followers the Nile for about 60 km before turning off right for a 160 km stretch through the desert. This will be my first serious stretch through a desert without Dave and Naomi as my backup vehicle. I am a little nervous, and again my mind listens to almost every sound/vibration my bike makes, to be sure all is well with her. The trip through the desert proceeds as planned, and I am stopped for the first time at one of the many "police" checkpoints. I am told to wait, while he runs inside and clearly radios someone. My attitude thus far in the trip, has been to be clam and very nice to everyone I encounter, especially people with authority/ power. And true to form,this time it works out to. I am told I can proceed, and after a quick chat with the officer I am on my way again.
I arrive in Hurghada just after 11 am. The place looks like a holiday resort on steroids. There are hundreds of resorts spanning a 15 km stretch of coastline, one bigger than the other. And in amongst those are, what appears to be, a large number of holiday apartment blocks,many of which are semi complete. Looks to me like a tourist/property boom gone/going bust to me.
I eventually find a cheapish hotel in the centre of down opposite the main beach, it has aircon which is my main criteria. Cinderellas, as it is called turns out to be the main drinking hole for Dutch and German expats, so I get to meet some interesting people. After some afternoon rest, i hit the beach, the first beach since Dar el Salam.
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| Day 95, 2011/08/04 |
Time to move North again, this time Way from the Nile and towards the Red Sea and perhaps some cooler weather. The trip today is not long, it is under 300 km but, to avoid the heat, I am on the road by 6am. The first section followers the Nile for about 60 km before turning off right for a 160 km stretch through the desert. This will be my first serious stretch through a desert without Dave and Naomi as my backup vehicle. I am a little nervous, and again my mind listens to almost every sound/vibration my bike makes, to be sure all is well with her. The trip through the desert proceeds as planned, and I am stopped for the first time at one of the many "police" checkpoints. I am told to wait, while he runs inside and clearly radios someone. My attitude thus far in the trip, has been to be clam and very nice to everyone I encounter, especially people with authority/ power. And true to form,this time it works out to. I am told I can proceed, and after a quick chat with the officer I am on my way again.
I arrive in Hurghada just after 11 am. The place looks like a holiday resort on steroids. There are hundreds of resorts spanning a 15 km stretch of coastline, one bigger than the other. And in amongst those are, what appears to be, a large number of holiday apartment blocks,many of which are semi complete. Looks to me like a tourist/property boom gone/going bust to me.
I eventually find a cheapish hotel in the centre of down opposite the main beach, it has aircon which is my main criteria. Cinderellas, as it is called turns out to be the main drinking hole for Dutch and German expats, so I get to meet some interesting people. After some afternoon rest, i hit the beach, the first beach since Dar el Salam.
Day 94, 2011/08/03 Luxor
Day 94, 2011/08/03 Luxor
I contemplated doing the Valley of the Queens however, I decided there were some logistical things that needed my attention, and no more pressing was the booking of the ferry from Haifa to Italy. The lady from Grimaldi, had mentioned to me that, the boat for the 12 th was now fully booked, and that I could only catch the one on the 24th. Lovely,i go from having too little time in Egypt, to having too much. Anyway,that is the way things work out. So I decide that, the best thing should do is book my seat on the boat before it gets sold out. Nothing too complicated I thought, just complete a couple of forms, with credit card details, and fax back. Well that is if you can find a fax machine that is! Not only a fax machine,one with ability to dial internationally,I.e. Italy! Eventually, after walking almost the entire city centre flat,I would one, the only thing is,they want to charge me an arm and a leg for the service. I give it a skip and decide to do it in another way. The only problem is that, it is Ramadan so almost everything is closed during the day and,if that ain't enough, it is also the first day of Mubarak's trial, so the rest of the nation is glued to the television screens. Amazing, it is like Big Brother, but only it is for real.
I eventually find a internet cafe and manage to wake up the owner, who is sleeping because it is Ramadan, and he has been up to all hours of the morning. He manages to scan in the pages and we send them off to Grimaldi at a fraction of the price it would have cost me. Excellent,feel relieved that that headache has been sorted out, now I can chill for the rest of the day.
I contemplated doing the Valley of the Queens however, I decided there were some logistical things that needed my attention, and no more pressing was the booking of the ferry from Haifa to Italy. The lady from Grimaldi, had mentioned to me that, the boat for the 12 th was now fully booked, and that I could only catch the one on the 24th. Lovely,i go from having too little time in Egypt, to having too much. Anyway,that is the way things work out. So I decide that, the best thing should do is book my seat on the boat before it gets sold out. Nothing too complicated I thought, just complete a couple of forms, with credit card details, and fax back. Well that is if you can find a fax machine that is! Not only a fax machine,one with ability to dial internationally,I.e. Italy! Eventually, after walking almost the entire city centre flat,I would one, the only thing is,they want to charge me an arm and a leg for the service. I give it a skip and decide to do it in another way. The only problem is that, it is Ramadan so almost everything is closed during the day and,if that ain't enough, it is also the first day of Mubarak's trial, so the rest of the nation is glued to the television screens. Amazing, it is like Big Brother, but only it is for real.
I eventually find a internet cafe and manage to wake up the owner, who is sleeping because it is Ramadan, and he has been up to all hours of the morning. He manages to scan in the pages and we send them off to Grimaldi at a fraction of the price it would have cost me. Excellent,feel relieved that that headache has been sorted out, now I can chill for the rest of the day.
Day 93, 2011/08/02 Luxor and Valley of the Kings
Day 93, 2011/08/02 Luxor and Valley of the Kings
I gave set aside a couple of days here in Luxor, manly to do some sightseeing and,to sort out some logistical things. Today however, is dedicated to sightseeing, and the Valley of the Kings. I will be going by bike, and the previous day revealed to me that, it can get very hot during the day so, an early start was planned. The Vlley of the Kings, is situated on the West bank, about 5 km from the Nile river itself. Its location was chosen for many reasons by the Egyptians, one of them being that, the one mountain looks like a pyramid. There are numerous tombs here of a number of pharaohs, including the famous Tutankhamen. I decide only to go see a couple of the free inclusive ones and give Tut, and the additional fee a skip. Some of those tombs are amazing. What was also amazing, was some of the strange things those people believed in, actually much like modern day religion I guess to!
It does not take me long to start to melt in the heat, and I am back at the hotel,in aircon by about 10:30. The remainder of the day is spent relaxing, reading and doing some journaling. Later that evening,Dave,Naomi and I go to a lovely proper restaurant in town. Have not been to one of those since I left Johannesburg. It served some amazing local food, just done in a far more upmarket way.
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| Day 93, 2011/08/02 |
I gave set aside a couple of days here in Luxor, manly to do some sightseeing and,to sort out some logistical things. Today however, is dedicated to sightseeing, and the Valley of the Kings. I will be going by bike, and the previous day revealed to me that, it can get very hot during the day so, an early start was planned. The Vlley of the Kings, is situated on the West bank, about 5 km from the Nile river itself. Its location was chosen for many reasons by the Egyptians, one of them being that, the one mountain looks like a pyramid. There are numerous tombs here of a number of pharaohs, including the famous Tutankhamen. I decide only to go see a couple of the free inclusive ones and give Tut, and the additional fee a skip. Some of those tombs are amazing. What was also amazing, was some of the strange things those people believed in, actually much like modern day religion I guess to!
It does not take me long to start to melt in the heat, and I am back at the hotel,in aircon by about 10:30. The remainder of the day is spent relaxing, reading and doing some journaling. Later that evening,Dave,Naomi and I go to a lovely proper restaurant in town. Have not been to one of those since I left Johannesburg. It served some amazing local food, just done in a far more upmarket way.
Day 92, 2011/08/01 Aswan to Luxor
Day 92, 2011/08/01 Aswan to Luxor
It has been more than a week since I have been on my bike and it is great to be on the road again and heading North. Today the trip is only about 240 km or so, along the Nile river to Luxor. It is my first real ride in Egypt and, since Dave and Naomi left the day before, I will be riding on my own. Not that is a problem just that, my brain does tinge things with me every time i travel alone. I become nervous with regards to my bike not breaking down. So, I listen to almost every sound it makes, every odd vibration it makes, to make sure all is well with her.
The road North is along the Nile river. Amazing scenery of green and dry desert abound. The road is lovely, pity about the drivers! The Egyptian drivers, are living up to their reputation at being bad drivers, with several incidents of vehicles over taking vehicles in my oncoming lane. I wonder if the Egyptian taught the Kenyans to drive or the other way round. I posed this question to Dave later, and he said that would imply one of the two must then have learnt to drive, which was clearly not the situation! The other thing ido notice, like in Kenya and Tanzania, is the sheer quantity of speed humps. Very irritating to negotiate. Also, there are many "police" checkpoints at very regular intervals, not that I get stopped, but they are there. They do not appear to be new, I.e., since the revolution,they are most certainly permanent structures.
Since Dave and Naomi, are in Luxor, i phone ahead to get there GPS coords of where we are staying. The place is called the Philip Hotel. I arrive at about 10:30, just perfect time to avoid the noon day sun. I meet up with Dave and Naomi later, after their visit to the Valley of the Kings, we have a couple of sundowners next to the pool on the roof.
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| Day 92, 2011/08/01 |
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| From Day 92, 2011/08/01 |
It has been more than a week since I have been on my bike and it is great to be on the road again and heading North. Today the trip is only about 240 km or so, along the Nile river to Luxor. It is my first real ride in Egypt and, since Dave and Naomi left the day before, I will be riding on my own. Not that is a problem just that, my brain does tinge things with me every time i travel alone. I become nervous with regards to my bike not breaking down. So, I listen to almost every sound it makes, every odd vibration it makes, to make sure all is well with her.
The road North is along the Nile river. Amazing scenery of green and dry desert abound. The road is lovely, pity about the drivers! The Egyptian drivers, are living up to their reputation at being bad drivers, with several incidents of vehicles over taking vehicles in my oncoming lane. I wonder if the Egyptian taught the Kenyans to drive or the other way round. I posed this question to Dave later, and he said that would imply one of the two must then have learnt to drive, which was clearly not the situation! The other thing ido notice, like in Kenya and Tanzania, is the sheer quantity of speed humps. Very irritating to negotiate. Also, there are many "police" checkpoints at very regular intervals, not that I get stopped, but they are there. They do not appear to be new, I.e., since the revolution,they are most certainly permanent structures.
Since Dave and Naomi, are in Luxor, i phone ahead to get there GPS coords of where we are staying. The place is called the Philip Hotel. I arrive at about 10:30, just perfect time to avoid the noon day sun. I meet up with Dave and Naomi later, after their visit to the Valley of the Kings, we have a couple of sundowners next to the pool on the roof.
Friday 5 August 2011
Day 91, 2011/07/31 Aswan and Abu Simbel
Day 91, 2011/07/31 Aswan and Abu Simbel
Farren, the guide for the truck overlanders, was kind enough to postpone their trip to Abu Simbel to Sunday so I could tag along. Once again, what a great guy. Naomi and Dave on the other hand, have decided to head towards Luxor. They were not very keen on the Abu Simbel temple thing.
The only down side to the visit to the temple I'd the fact that it involves a 4 am start. Yeah, not my cup of tea normally. However, we have been told that, for security reasons, we need to travel in convoy. I am sure this gets the hair on the back of some tourist to stand on end! Anyway, the bus meets up with other tourist buses a couple of km from the hotel, and at 430 am we all drive off together. Well that is what I thought! I thought we would have the accompaniment of several army/police vehicles? Did not see any! I thought the buses would at least all travel at more or less the same speed, within sight of each other? None of that happened! Thought perhaps an army/police officer would climb on each bus? Did not see any do that! So what as the precise purpose of this so called convoy then? Who knows, but it all looked like a load of crap to me.
At least we are able to catchup on some lost sleep on the bus, and arrive in Abu Simbel just before 8 am. The heat of the day is starting to reveal its ugly head. We are given more or less an hour to take in the sights and sounds before the "convoy" leaves to return to Aswan.
For those who do not know of Abu Simbel, it consists of two massive temples cut from the rock face. One is for king Ramessies II and the other for his wife, Neferti.
The size and scale of these temples are amazing, never mind the art and sculptures inside. To think they date back to 1200 BC. Amazing! What makes them even more amazing is the fact that, in the 60's when they build the Aswan dam, because of the temples location along the Nile river, they had to be moved to be preserved. This was no small task and took 5 years to complete. Both temples, together with their external facades, were moved a distance of 210 m, and up an elevation of 60 m to their new home, on the banks of the Aswan dam. The audio visual display, in the auditorium, gives a brief interlude into how this was done.
10am soon arrives, and we make our 3 1/2 hour drive back to Aswan. At least the bus has aircon!
The remainder of the afternoon is spent catching up on emails, journalling and blogging.
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| Day 91, 2011/07/31 |
Farren, the guide for the truck overlanders, was kind enough to postpone their trip to Abu Simbel to Sunday so I could tag along. Once again, what a great guy. Naomi and Dave on the other hand, have decided to head towards Luxor. They were not very keen on the Abu Simbel temple thing.
The only down side to the visit to the temple I'd the fact that it involves a 4 am start. Yeah, not my cup of tea normally. However, we have been told that, for security reasons, we need to travel in convoy. I am sure this gets the hair on the back of some tourist to stand on end! Anyway, the bus meets up with other tourist buses a couple of km from the hotel, and at 430 am we all drive off together. Well that is what I thought! I thought we would have the accompaniment of several army/police vehicles? Did not see any! I thought the buses would at least all travel at more or less the same speed, within sight of each other? None of that happened! Thought perhaps an army/police officer would climb on each bus? Did not see any do that! So what as the precise purpose of this so called convoy then? Who knows, but it all looked like a load of crap to me.
At least we are able to catchup on some lost sleep on the bus, and arrive in Abu Simbel just before 8 am. The heat of the day is starting to reveal its ugly head. We are given more or less an hour to take in the sights and sounds before the "convoy" leaves to return to Aswan.
For those who do not know of Abu Simbel, it consists of two massive temples cut from the rock face. One is for king Ramessies II and the other for his wife, Neferti.
The size and scale of these temples are amazing, never mind the art and sculptures inside. To think they date back to 1200 BC. Amazing! What makes them even more amazing is the fact that, in the 60's when they build the Aswan dam, because of the temples location along the Nile river, they had to be moved to be preserved. This was no small task and took 5 years to complete. Both temples, together with their external facades, were moved a distance of 210 m, and up an elevation of 60 m to their new home, on the banks of the Aswan dam. The audio visual display, in the auditorium, gives a brief interlude into how this was done.
10am soon arrives, and we make our 3 1/2 hour drive back to Aswan. At least the bus has aircon!
The remainder of the afternoon is spent catching up on emails, journalling and blogging.
Day 90, 2011/07/30 Aswan
Day 90, 2011/07/30 Aswan
We meet Mohammed, our fixer, at reception at 830am sharp. He has quoted us $50 each to assist us with getting our bikes through customs and licensed, with new plates. That naturally excludes all the expenses we need to pay, both taxes and bribes. Yes bribes. Nothing happens in Egypt unless things get oiled along the way. Even if it is their job, they normally want to get paid for any effort they exert. Mohammed's dad is our taxi driver for the day, so we will not be hassling for transport all the time. We first visit the traffic department to purchase a set of documents which, we will complete as part of the process. This purchase at least is legal and part of the process. Then off to the port to offload the vehicles and customs. We are fortunate to find the Cytech team also there. Good news, will make the off loading of the bike easier. After the cars are successfully off loaded,it is the turn of the bikes, and just like with the loading, it is organized chaos! There is initially loads of screaming and shouting but eventually an agreement is reached on how it is to be done. Amazing! It actually turns out to easier to off load them than to load them. The fact that there are more than enough big strong guys to assist certainly does help.
Then customs! It appears to take forever for the officials to complete the forms that we purchased earlier. Why it takes so long? Not sure, perhaps we should have added additional lubrication at some point. Eventually the forms complete, it is the turn of the "engineer" to perform his magic. Not that that is rocket science, and why we needed an "engineer" god only knows but, he eventually takes imprints of our manufacturing plates, which are affixed to the forms. At this point, we part with E£ 600, part taxes, part lubrication. Then off to testing station about 5 km away, to get his autograph on the completed forms. The finally back to the traffic department for the final time. There we purchase third party insurance and get issued a set of new plates. Then back to the port to fit the new plates and collect the vehicles. How anyone does this without a fixer, god only knows. The process is overly complex, unlike anything else in Africa thus far, and filled with corruption that our fixer appears to know how to navigate with flying colours. By the time we are finished the entire process, it is 330pm and we each out of pocket for a minimum of E£ 800! At least we finally in Egypt, together with our vehicles, what a relief. It calls for a celebration, and after picking up Naomi at the hotel, we head for McDonalds for some comfort food.
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| Day 90, 2011/07/30 |
We meet Mohammed, our fixer, at reception at 830am sharp. He has quoted us $50 each to assist us with getting our bikes through customs and licensed, with new plates. That naturally excludes all the expenses we need to pay, both taxes and bribes. Yes bribes. Nothing happens in Egypt unless things get oiled along the way. Even if it is their job, they normally want to get paid for any effort they exert. Mohammed's dad is our taxi driver for the day, so we will not be hassling for transport all the time. We first visit the traffic department to purchase a set of documents which, we will complete as part of the process. This purchase at least is legal and part of the process. Then off to the port to offload the vehicles and customs. We are fortunate to find the Cytech team also there. Good news, will make the off loading of the bike easier. After the cars are successfully off loaded,it is the turn of the bikes, and just like with the loading, it is organized chaos! There is initially loads of screaming and shouting but eventually an agreement is reached on how it is to be done. Amazing! It actually turns out to easier to off load them than to load them. The fact that there are more than enough big strong guys to assist certainly does help.
Then customs! It appears to take forever for the officials to complete the forms that we purchased earlier. Why it takes so long? Not sure, perhaps we should have added additional lubrication at some point. Eventually the forms complete, it is the turn of the "engineer" to perform his magic. Not that that is rocket science, and why we needed an "engineer" god only knows but, he eventually takes imprints of our manufacturing plates, which are affixed to the forms. At this point, we part with E£ 600, part taxes, part lubrication. Then off to testing station about 5 km away, to get his autograph on the completed forms. The finally back to the traffic department for the final time. There we purchase third party insurance and get issued a set of new plates. Then back to the port to fit the new plates and collect the vehicles. How anyone does this without a fixer, god only knows. The process is overly complex, unlike anything else in Africa thus far, and filled with corruption that our fixer appears to know how to navigate with flying colours. By the time we are finished the entire process, it is 330pm and we each out of pocket for a minimum of E£ 800! At least we finally in Egypt, together with our vehicles, what a relief. It calls for a celebration, and after picking up Naomi at the hotel, we head for McDonalds for some comfort food.
Day 89, 2011/07/29 Aswan
Day 89, 2011/07/29 Aswan
Amazing how, a good bed and a working aircon can contribute to an amazing nights rest. I was in bed by about 8 pm the previous night and only awoke at first light this morning. First good nights sleep I have had since Ethiopia. Well overdue! Our vehicles apparently arrive today however, it being Friday and all in a Muslim country, we have been told nothing will happen until Saturday. So we affectively have the day dedicated to R&R. Nothing wrong with that. After a brief walk around the market/sout I return to the hotel and spend most of the day in my room making use of the free WiFi and catching up on lost sleep.
Amazing how, a good bed and a working aircon can contribute to an amazing nights rest. I was in bed by about 8 pm the previous night and only awoke at first light this morning. First good nights sleep I have had since Ethiopia. Well overdue! Our vehicles apparently arrive today however, it being Friday and all in a Muslim country, we have been told nothing will happen until Saturday. So we affectively have the day dedicated to R&R. Nothing wrong with that. After a brief walk around the market/sout I return to the hotel and spend most of the day in my room making use of the free WiFi and catching up on lost sleep.
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| Day 89, 2011/07/29 |
Day 88, 2011/07/28 Wadi Halfa to Aswan Egypt
Day 88, 2011/07/28 Wadi Halfa to Aswan Egypt
I managed to get some sleep on the baking hot deck floor eventually, and it was the early morning light that eventually woke me up. All over deck, and in gangways and, where ever people could find space, there were bodies of people sleeping. A real safety hazard I am sure, not that that is a concern to anyone in Africa! I eventually make it to the bathroom after clambering over numerous bodies along the way, to find a guy washing his feet in the basin. Well I guess brushing my teeth can wait until we reach land I guess! By the time I return on deck, the sun is starting to make its appearance and hence the deck has been converted into an open air Mosque. I have never personally been to a Mosque, so it is interesting for me to observe how Muslims pray.
The next 6 hours appear to never end and I can not wait to finally setoff the boat and into some form of civilized environment with aircon and a number of cold beverages. At this point, that looked so far away!
Eventually, we arrived in Aswan, and little did i know at the time that, the long hard process had hardly begun! First, the authorities would not allow anyone to disembark. Why? Who knows! So we were forced to sit in the baking sun for a further hour. Eventually,the boat docked, and we were allowed to disembark. With everyone hot and bothered from being made to wait in the heat, the disembarking became a free for all. People were trying to carry their luggage which, consisted of about 5 boxes each, off while, at the same time people were trying to board the boat! And all this was happening while the police officials were trying to do passport checks at the door. I in my desperation to get off made an attempt to join the exit queue but, soon discovered that I had bitten off more than I can chew and eventually decided just to wait until more sanity prevailed.
Eventually,in all the confusion, I managed to disembark,nothing like finally getting off that awful boat. However, the suffering was not over, and we were forced to queue in the blazing heat. Finally, the Cytech fixer intervened and for once being a white foreigner had its advantages and we were given special priority and hustled through security quickly.
With no real idea on where to stay the next couple of evenings, while we wait for the vehicles to arrive, we decide to tag along with the truck overlanders, to their hotel. Farren, the tour leader, was such a nice guy and allowed us to travel with them in their bus. The bus had aircon and I was finally starting to feel like the end of the long ordeal was approaching an end.
The hotel situated on the banks of the Nile, in the city of Aswan, was called Orchida, and the rooms had aircon. That is all i really needed! It was also vey well priced, and at R85 a night, I thought it was a bargain.
After a quick shower, just to get the body temperature down to something a little more manageable, I decide to join up with the overlanders with a visit NcDonallds. I am not normally a Mc fan however, after the lack of civilization and heat I had to endure for the last couple of weeks, I need some comfort food and what is better than pure junk food!
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| Day 88, 2011/07/28 |
I managed to get some sleep on the baking hot deck floor eventually, and it was the early morning light that eventually woke me up. All over deck, and in gangways and, where ever people could find space, there were bodies of people sleeping. A real safety hazard I am sure, not that that is a concern to anyone in Africa! I eventually make it to the bathroom after clambering over numerous bodies along the way, to find a guy washing his feet in the basin. Well I guess brushing my teeth can wait until we reach land I guess! By the time I return on deck, the sun is starting to make its appearance and hence the deck has been converted into an open air Mosque. I have never personally been to a Mosque, so it is interesting for me to observe how Muslims pray.
The next 6 hours appear to never end and I can not wait to finally setoff the boat and into some form of civilized environment with aircon and a number of cold beverages. At this point, that looked so far away!
Eventually, we arrived in Aswan, and little did i know at the time that, the long hard process had hardly begun! First, the authorities would not allow anyone to disembark. Why? Who knows! So we were forced to sit in the baking sun for a further hour. Eventually,the boat docked, and we were allowed to disembark. With everyone hot and bothered from being made to wait in the heat, the disembarking became a free for all. People were trying to carry their luggage which, consisted of about 5 boxes each, off while, at the same time people were trying to board the boat! And all this was happening while the police officials were trying to do passport checks at the door. I in my desperation to get off made an attempt to join the exit queue but, soon discovered that I had bitten off more than I can chew and eventually decided just to wait until more sanity prevailed.
Eventually,in all the confusion, I managed to disembark,nothing like finally getting off that awful boat. However, the suffering was not over, and we were forced to queue in the blazing heat. Finally, the Cytech fixer intervened and for once being a white foreigner had its advantages and we were given special priority and hustled through security quickly.
With no real idea on where to stay the next couple of evenings, while we wait for the vehicles to arrive, we decide to tag along with the truck overlanders, to their hotel. Farren, the tour leader, was such a nice guy and allowed us to travel with them in their bus. The bus had aircon and I was finally starting to feel like the end of the long ordeal was approaching an end.
The hotel situated on the banks of the Nile, in the city of Aswan, was called Orchida, and the rooms had aircon. That is all i really needed! It was also vey well priced, and at R85 a night, I thought it was a bargain.
After a quick shower, just to get the body temperature down to something a little more manageable, I decide to join up with the overlanders with a visit NcDonallds. I am not normally a Mc fan however, after the lack of civilization and heat I had to endure for the last couple of weeks, I need some comfort food and what is better than pure junk food!
Day 87, 2011/07/27 Wadi Halfa to Aswan Egypt
Day 87, 2011/07/27 Wadi Halfa to Aswan Egypt
Perhaps one of the most important lessons I have learnt on this trip, is that too much information can be counter productive. I recall my Moyale road incident where, I had heard soo much about that road that, when I eventually set to traverse it, I was a nervous reck from the information overload I had experienced in the days leading up to it. Actually knowing less, would have meant far more peaceful nights rest before and hence, far more tranquil experience.
Well with regards to the ferry crossing, the fact that I knew almost nothing was a true blessing in disguise because, if I perhaps knew how bad that boat would be then perhaps, I would have worked myself into a state before boarding.
However, before we could board the boat, there was the problem of loading the vehicles onto the barge that needed to be attended to. We all met up with the Cytech crowd in town at about 1130 and made our way to the port. After dealing with the Sudanese customs officials in the blazing sun, it was off to the barge to load the bikes and cars. The peer, from which the boats and bikes are loaded is about 5 km away from the peer where you board the boat. Why different peers, who knows? The loading was a nightmare! Firstly, there is nothing like 20 bikers trying to do a task together! Especially, if these people are all confident strong personalities. You guessed it, there were hence 40 different opinions on how it should be done. Add to that, 50 degree heat, with a baking noon day sun, and you have a receipt for a number of heated discussions. Needless to say that, eventually sanity prevailed and we managed to load all 19 bikes onto the barge without any of them suffering any damage.
Then the cars, and that is when the pawpaw hit the fan. The ship owner had no problem with Dave's car however, the Cytech vehicle, was in his mind too big for the barge. He claimed that it would not fit. After proving that it would by taking measurements, the owner then changed his tune and then said it would make his boat unstable. This was naturally all a load of nonsense, he was looking to try make some additional money off the situation and boy did he. After numerous arguments, several phone callas to Mazan etc, and a couple of hundred dollars, the Cytech vehicle was eventually loaded. Amazing how a couple of hundred dollars can make a ship all of a sudden stable! Amazing!
It was about 3:30 pm by the time we managed to finish loading all the vehicles, and we still had paper work to sort out before catching the ferry at 5pm. So quickly back to the port to pay Mazan for his efforts, to collect our carnets and then off to the ferry peer.
Thank god we had asked a couple of truck overlanders to save us some space on deck because, by the time we got there, the boat was almost full and all seats in the cabins had been taken. Not that one would want to actually take one's designated seat,it was soo dirty and rundown. So the option of sleeping on deck, squeezed between a number of locals, in the baking sun, was far more palatable than a dingy, dirty,stinky, AIR-CONDITIONED cabin. Dave and Naomi brought a couple of tarpaulin sheets with them and we soon managed to erect our own shelter on the deck, out of the blazing sun.
It was not long after boarding that, the boat set sail and for the next 20 odd hours, this shit hole would be home!
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| Day 87, 2011/07/27 |
Perhaps one of the most important lessons I have learnt on this trip, is that too much information can be counter productive. I recall my Moyale road incident where, I had heard soo much about that road that, when I eventually set to traverse it, I was a nervous reck from the information overload I had experienced in the days leading up to it. Actually knowing less, would have meant far more peaceful nights rest before and hence, far more tranquil experience.
Well with regards to the ferry crossing, the fact that I knew almost nothing was a true blessing in disguise because, if I perhaps knew how bad that boat would be then perhaps, I would have worked myself into a state before boarding.
However, before we could board the boat, there was the problem of loading the vehicles onto the barge that needed to be attended to. We all met up with the Cytech crowd in town at about 1130 and made our way to the port. After dealing with the Sudanese customs officials in the blazing sun, it was off to the barge to load the bikes and cars. The peer, from which the boats and bikes are loaded is about 5 km away from the peer where you board the boat. Why different peers, who knows? The loading was a nightmare! Firstly, there is nothing like 20 bikers trying to do a task together! Especially, if these people are all confident strong personalities. You guessed it, there were hence 40 different opinions on how it should be done. Add to that, 50 degree heat, with a baking noon day sun, and you have a receipt for a number of heated discussions. Needless to say that, eventually sanity prevailed and we managed to load all 19 bikes onto the barge without any of them suffering any damage.
Then the cars, and that is when the pawpaw hit the fan. The ship owner had no problem with Dave's car however, the Cytech vehicle, was in his mind too big for the barge. He claimed that it would not fit. After proving that it would by taking measurements, the owner then changed his tune and then said it would make his boat unstable. This was naturally all a load of nonsense, he was looking to try make some additional money off the situation and boy did he. After numerous arguments, several phone callas to Mazan etc, and a couple of hundred dollars, the Cytech vehicle was eventually loaded. Amazing how a couple of hundred dollars can make a ship all of a sudden stable! Amazing!
It was about 3:30 pm by the time we managed to finish loading all the vehicles, and we still had paper work to sort out before catching the ferry at 5pm. So quickly back to the port to pay Mazan for his efforts, to collect our carnets and then off to the ferry peer.
Thank god we had asked a couple of truck overlanders to save us some space on deck because, by the time we got there, the boat was almost full and all seats in the cabins had been taken. Not that one would want to actually take one's designated seat,it was soo dirty and rundown. So the option of sleeping on deck, squeezed between a number of locals, in the baking sun, was far more palatable than a dingy, dirty,stinky, AIR-CONDITIONED cabin. Dave and Naomi brought a couple of tarpaulin sheets with them and we soon managed to erect our own shelter on the deck, out of the blazing sun.
It was not long after boarding that, the boat set sail and for the next 20 odd hours, this shit hole would be home!
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