Day 50, 2011/06/20 Nairobi
Hell,it is day 50 already. As for all those people who thought we would be back in a week! Well we proved them wrong! Anyway, the day was a little active than it has been of late. We managed to get David's passport couriered back to SA,witness hopefully all the necessary info to obtain this Ethiopian Visa. Sometimes i wonder if they even look at any of the documents you furnish them with. Like explain to me, if we are doing an overland trip,how booked accommodation is going to be of help to them? Also since we do know when we will be getting the visa hence, we will not know when we will be arriving in the country, hence we can not book any accommodation with certainty! Yon starting to understand the level of frustration we need to contend with! And as for the ORIGINAL copies of car registration and yellow fever certificate? Why, will a photocopy not do?
Anyway, enough botching,all we can do is send all this back, furnish the embassy with it and hope it makes its way back to us safely, with visa.
Once that was all sorted, it was off to the campsite for a quick service of the bike. Since the rain managed to water damage both my spare oil and air filter, I am a little weary to replace them. So instead, I just do a quick oil change and make sure to clean out my existing air filter with compressed air. Hopefully, that should be enough to get me all the to Europe.
Tuesday 21 June 2011
Day 49, 2011/06/19 Nairobi
Day 49, 2011/06/19 Nairobi
Nothing really exciting to report about. Needed to fix my hooter for the umpteenth time today. The switch acting up again. Then just waited for David to arrive, which he did just before 5 pm. So too late to drop off passports, so we will leave it for Monday.
Nothing really exciting to report about. Needed to fix my hooter for the umpteenth time today. The switch acting up again. Then just waited for David to arrive, which he did just before 5 pm. So too late to drop off passports, so we will leave it for Monday.
Monday 20 June 2011
Day 48, 2011/06/18 Nairobi
Day 48, 2011/06/18 Nairobi
Boredom can drive one to do anything. I was so bored, and i am getting a little more confident in the traffic that, I decided to head to see what the city's CBD looks like. Being Saturday afternoon, i think I will be safe with less traffic. I am more or less correct with my assumptions. I follow Kenyata ave into town and eventually end up where I am the only bike in amongst mini bus taxi. Then I knew it was time to get out of town and to somewhere a little safer. Eventually, I make my way to Westlands, a very vibe part of town. Much like Melville in
Jhb. There I bum into Jed, an English military guy wearing a Bulls rugby gersey. I enquire from him where i can watch rugby on a big screen. He advises me to go to a pub called Gipsys. Gipsys turns out to be a typical English kind of smokey pub, and I ended up watching the Bulls get knocked out of the Super XV while the Stormers secured they ended Second on the log and hence have a bye.
It is about 10 pm by the time the rugby finally finishes and I still have to get back to the campsite. With my one contact lens in and in the dark, with Nairobi traffic to scare me, i make my way slowly home, and the 7 odd km home feel like eternity . But safe to say that, I manage without any scary incidents to report.
Boredom can drive one to do anything. I was so bored, and i am getting a little more confident in the traffic that, I decided to head to see what the city's CBD looks like. Being Saturday afternoon, i think I will be safe with less traffic. I am more or less correct with my assumptions. I follow Kenyata ave into town and eventually end up where I am the only bike in amongst mini bus taxi. Then I knew it was time to get out of town and to somewhere a little safer. Eventually, I make my way to Westlands, a very vibe part of town. Much like Melville in
Jhb. There I bum into Jed, an English military guy wearing a Bulls rugby gersey. I enquire from him where i can watch rugby on a big screen. He advises me to go to a pub called Gipsys. Gipsys turns out to be a typical English kind of smokey pub, and I ended up watching the Bulls get knocked out of the Super XV while the Stormers secured they ended Second on the log and hence have a bye.
It is about 10 pm by the time the rugby finally finishes and I still have to get back to the campsite. With my one contact lens in and in the dark, with Nairobi traffic to scare me, i make my way slowly home, and the 7 odd km home feel like eternity . But safe to say that, I manage without any scary incidents to report.
Saturday 18 June 2011
Day 47, 2011/06/17 Nairobi
Day 47, 2011/06/17 Nairobi
Another one of those lazy days waiting around. I was soo bored, I even walked round the shopping centre. Then I got news that Heather missed her flight. So everything is do be delayed by another day. I guess if David arrives Saturday or Sunday is neither here nor there. Nick, the Australian photographer guy at Jungle Junction invited me to gout with him and his girlfriend for dinner and then some dancing. I must admit, I have only had the pleasure of seeing the inside of my tent at nights so really looking forward to seeing what Nairobi night life is like. And wow, was i not disappointed. This place can party. We went to a place called Westlands, for those who know Melville in Jhb, something along those lines just bigger, louder and happening. We had did at a place called Havanna. What is really amazing about Nairobi is its cosmopolitan feel. There are blacks, whites, Indians and partying up a storm in clubs and bars and pubs. It is such a party place. Love it. From dinner we went to a night club called Black Diamond. Nice thing is that they do not charge you a cover charge here, so you can go from club to club to club and night. Black Diamond was filled with people partying the night away, and the DJ played both old and new songs, was fantastic. In true Kenyan style, the club started to fill up at about 1 am, but by hat stage we were exhausted. Not use to these late nights since I started the bile trip. So it was off home, to Jungle Junction, and some R&R.
Another one of those lazy days waiting around. I was soo bored, I even walked round the shopping centre. Then I got news that Heather missed her flight. So everything is do be delayed by another day. I guess if David arrives Saturday or Sunday is neither here nor there. Nick, the Australian photographer guy at Jungle Junction invited me to gout with him and his girlfriend for dinner and then some dancing. I must admit, I have only had the pleasure of seeing the inside of my tent at nights so really looking forward to seeing what Nairobi night life is like. And wow, was i not disappointed. This place can party. We went to a place called Westlands, for those who know Melville in Jhb, something along those lines just bigger, louder and happening. We had did at a place called Havanna. What is really amazing about Nairobi is its cosmopolitan feel. There are blacks, whites, Indians and partying up a storm in clubs and bars and pubs. It is such a party place. Love it. From dinner we went to a night club called Black Diamond. Nice thing is that they do not charge you a cover charge here, so you can go from club to club to club and night. Black Diamond was filled with people partying the night away, and the DJ played both old and new songs, was fantastic. In true Kenyan style, the club started to fill up at about 1 am, but by hat stage we were exhausted. Not use to these late nights since I started the bile trip. So it was off home, to Jungle Junction, and some R&R.
Friday 17 June 2011
Day 46, 2011/06/16 Nairobi
Day 46, 2011/06/16 Nairobi
I really have nothing planned for the day, so head off to the local coffee shop and catchup on my blogging. Nothing really noteworthy to really tell anyone about.
I really have nothing planned for the day, so head off to the local coffee shop and catchup on my blogging. Nothing really noteworthy to really tell anyone about.
Day 45, 2011/06/15 Nairobi
Day 45, 2011/06/15 Nairobi
I only need to collect my passport at 3 pm, so have a morning to kill. I make all the necessary photocopies, and compile all the details to send with my passport back to SA so that,my dad's work is made easier with regards to trying to get those visas sorted for me.
At 3 pm, I collect my passport from the Sudanese embassy and, there appears to have been no problem with the issuing of the visa. Then off to the courier place to make sure my passport is sent back to Johannesburg.
I only need to collect my passport at 3 pm, so have a morning to kill. I make all the necessary photocopies, and compile all the details to send with my passport back to SA so that,my dad's work is made easier with regards to trying to get those visas sorted for me.
At 3 pm, I collect my passport from the Sudanese embassy and, there appears to have been no problem with the issuing of the visa. Then off to the courier place to make sure my passport is sent back to Johannesburg.
Day 44, 2011/06/14 Nairobi
Day 44, 2011/06/14 Nairobi
Up early so I can get this Sudanese visa sorted. One of the very strange requirements for a Sudanese visa is that, you need a letter from your embassy. Yes! You heard that right. And what does the letter need to state? Well not sure really, it just needs to say you are who you say you are. Well that is what my passport was there for? Do not ask stupid question!! You do what ever they want.
So off to South African embassy. Not too far from the others, and boy what a surprise. The most professionally run embassy out of all that I had had to deal with in Nairobi. But then again you would say, I was comparing them to African ones, so that was not really a good benchmark against which to judge things. However, after discussions with some fellow overland travelers, and their experiences with their embassy, was happy and proud to be South African! British foreign nationals told me of stories of arriving in offices where there was no one to assist them, and only after an hour did someone eventually show their face at the teller. Wow, not what I was expecting from the British Foreign office. And not only that,they needed to fork out £45 for the letter! Yes, while the SA embassy issued it for free. As for the American embassy, apparently they refused to issue any letters. So I was told. Anyway, that all sorted it is off to the Sudanese embassy and the submission of the passport together with KSH 4000, or about R360 application fee.
It is amazing how all this running around between government departments can be so tiring, so back to the Jungle Junction for some well deserved R&R!
Up early so I can get this Sudanese visa sorted. One of the very strange requirements for a Sudanese visa is that, you need a letter from your embassy. Yes! You heard that right. And what does the letter need to state? Well not sure really, it just needs to say you are who you say you are. Well that is what my passport was there for? Do not ask stupid question!! You do what ever they want.
So off to South African embassy. Not too far from the others, and boy what a surprise. The most professionally run embassy out of all that I had had to deal with in Nairobi. But then again you would say, I was comparing them to African ones, so that was not really a good benchmark against which to judge things. However, after discussions with some fellow overland travelers, and their experiences with their embassy, was happy and proud to be South African! British foreign nationals told me of stories of arriving in offices where there was no one to assist them, and only after an hour did someone eventually show their face at the teller. Wow, not what I was expecting from the British Foreign office. And not only that,they needed to fork out £45 for the letter! Yes, while the SA embassy issued it for free. As for the American embassy, apparently they refused to issue any letters. So I was told. Anyway, that all sorted it is off to the Sudanese embassy and the submission of the passport together with KSH 4000, or about R360 application fee.
It is amazing how all this running around between government departments can be so tiring, so back to the Jungle Junction for some well deserved R&R!
Day 43, 2011/06/13 Nairobi
Day 43, 2011/06/13 Nairobi
I have a number of things to sort out in Nairobi so, get cracking early. First thing is, i need some clean clothes. Nothing like running out of clothing that at least does not smell like someone died in it. I have grown accustomed to my own body smell on this trip, and wearing the same shirt or pants for days on end is fine however, there comes a time when the clothing no longer smells good, and almost every item of clothing I had was at that stage. So some washing was on the cards.
After that, and meeting Chris the owner of Jungle Junction, it was off to try my luck at the various embassies in town. Chris had mentioned to me that, I would have no luck at the Ethiopian embassy, and boy was he right. What a unhelpful bunch! Then the Sudanese. The list of requirements they wanted for a visa was endless however, at least with them there was light at the end of the tunnel. I could not give it all to them then and there so, I would have to return tomorrow. Then finally off to the Egyptian embassy, and oh boy also the same bullshit story I got fed at the Ethiopian embassy. Something about, if you are not a resident of Kenya, we can not issue visas. What crap! Sounds like a fucking good excuse for doing nothing if you are asking me! Not that these people in the foreign service do much anyway! Yes,think these government official are useless and would never be able to get a real job, in the real world. But hell, nothing like job security and bureaucracy to ensure we can deliver bad service with a smile.
So, i am left with no other option but to courier my passport back to SA. Yes lovely! But first i will make sure I get my Sudanese visa sorted but, that I can only organize tomorrow. So back to the Jungle Junction and some R&R.
 |
| Day 43, 2011/06/13 |
I have a number of things to sort out in Nairobi so, get cracking early. First thing is, i need some clean clothes. Nothing like running out of clothing that at least does not smell like someone died in it. I have grown accustomed to my own body smell on this trip, and wearing the same shirt or pants for days on end is fine however, there comes a time when the clothing no longer smells good, and almost every item of clothing I had was at that stage. So some washing was on the cards.
After that, and meeting Chris the owner of Jungle Junction, it was off to try my luck at the various embassies in town. Chris had mentioned to me that, I would have no luck at the Ethiopian embassy, and boy was he right. What a unhelpful bunch! Then the Sudanese. The list of requirements they wanted for a visa was endless however, at least with them there was light at the end of the tunnel. I could not give it all to them then and there so, I would have to return tomorrow. Then finally off to the Egyptian embassy, and oh boy also the same bullshit story I got fed at the Ethiopian embassy. Something about, if you are not a resident of Kenya, we can not issue visas. What crap! Sounds like a fucking good excuse for doing nothing if you are asking me! Not that these people in the foreign service do much anyway! Yes,think these government official are useless and would never be able to get a real job, in the real world. But hell, nothing like job security and bureaucracy to ensure we can deliver bad service with a smile.
So, i am left with no other option but to courier my passport back to SA. Yes lovely! But first i will make sure I get my Sudanese visa sorted but, that I can only organize tomorrow. So back to the Jungle Junction and some R&R.
Day 42, 2011/06/12 Arusha to Nairobi, Kenya
Day 42, 2011/06/12 Arusha to Nairobi, Kenya
After a week of not riding bike, my ass is itching to get back on the bike and on the road. David is going back to Zanzibar, to spend a couple of days with Heather. I am going to head North to Kenya, and Nairobi. I have heard some scary stories of how the Kenyans drive, and not looking forward to encountering it. At least it is Sunday so, we hep the traffic to be less and hens have less hassles with it. After a lovely breakfast with David and Heather it is off. Riding alone, for the first time, gives the ride a whole new dimension. However, I am looking forward to the challenge. The road North from Arusha is stunning. It looks like it has just been completed, and except for some small detours for road works it is lovely riding. Arrive at the border post at Namanga and things are pretty smooth. Except for the 3rd party insurance. I know the guys are trying to rip me off but, I have to get some. So eventually after been shown the "official" price list, I settle on $60. Which, it turns out is a rip off, but I am none the wiser!
After the formalities are done, it is back on the bike and towards Nairobi we go. The road is also stunning this side of the border to and, whether because it is Sunday or not I am not sure, there is almost no traffic to speak of. About 60 km from Nairobi, i start to encounter the insane driving that I have been warned about. Oncoming traffic appears to believe that it has the right of way when overtaking slower traffic and hence, you are required to move over for them, even if that means going onto the shoulder/verge of the road, or even off it. It is extremely nurse racking when you come around a corner,and there is someone on your side of the road coming towards you! Never mind the fact you are on a bike, and a second class citizen! It is also of no help that, my hooter has stopped working for the umpteenth time, so once again I can only resort to rude hand gestures. In my frustration, I figure out what the problem is, these beautiful roads, do not have any centre lines or lane lines. So in theory, there is no my side or your side of the road really. And when I eventually get to the main freeway through town, I discover there are no lanes either. So everyone just drives all over what would normally have been a two laned road. What a nightmare. Once again thank god it is Sunday. Would hate to see this during week, or in peak hour!
Eventually, I make it to the Jungle Junction campsite in one piece, without being killed or killing anyone. There, parked in the driveway, are the five south African bikers bikes. I had met them the previous evening in Arusha, and they had left at the crake of dawn. They invite me to join them for dinner at a place called Carnivores. Yes, the same kind of Carnivores as the one in Mildersdrift in Johannesburg. Always keen on a new experience, I join them in their taxi. All six of us in a hatchback. The food was really good however, i was disappointed to discover that, they are no longer allowed to server game meat. The Kenyan government has out lawed the sale of it, so the only exotic things on the menu were ostrich an crocodile. None the less it was a lovely evening.
 |
| Day 42, 2011/06/12 |
After a week of not riding bike, my ass is itching to get back on the bike and on the road. David is going back to Zanzibar, to spend a couple of days with Heather. I am going to head North to Kenya, and Nairobi. I have heard some scary stories of how the Kenyans drive, and not looking forward to encountering it. At least it is Sunday so, we hep the traffic to be less and hens have less hassles with it. After a lovely breakfast with David and Heather it is off. Riding alone, for the first time, gives the ride a whole new dimension. However, I am looking forward to the challenge. The road North from Arusha is stunning. It looks like it has just been completed, and except for some small detours for road works it is lovely riding. Arrive at the border post at Namanga and things are pretty smooth. Except for the 3rd party insurance. I know the guys are trying to rip me off but, I have to get some. So eventually after been shown the "official" price list, I settle on $60. Which, it turns out is a rip off, but I am none the wiser!
After the formalities are done, it is back on the bike and towards Nairobi we go. The road is also stunning this side of the border to and, whether because it is Sunday or not I am not sure, there is almost no traffic to speak of. About 60 km from Nairobi, i start to encounter the insane driving that I have been warned about. Oncoming traffic appears to believe that it has the right of way when overtaking slower traffic and hence, you are required to move over for them, even if that means going onto the shoulder/verge of the road, or even off it. It is extremely nurse racking when you come around a corner,and there is someone on your side of the road coming towards you! Never mind the fact you are on a bike, and a second class citizen! It is also of no help that, my hooter has stopped working for the umpteenth time, so once again I can only resort to rude hand gestures. In my frustration, I figure out what the problem is, these beautiful roads, do not have any centre lines or lane lines. So in theory, there is no my side or your side of the road really. And when I eventually get to the main freeway through town, I discover there are no lanes either. So everyone just drives all over what would normally have been a two laned road. What a nightmare. Once again thank god it is Sunday. Would hate to see this during week, or in peak hour!
Eventually, I make it to the Jungle Junction campsite in one piece, without being killed or killing anyone. There, parked in the driveway, are the five south African bikers bikes. I had met them the previous evening in Arusha, and they had left at the crake of dawn. They invite me to join them for dinner at a place called Carnivores. Yes, the same kind of Carnivores as the one in Mildersdrift in Johannesburg. Always keen on a new experience, I join them in their taxi. All six of us in a hatchback. The food was really good however, i was disappointed to discover that, they are no longer allowed to server game meat. The Kenyan government has out lawed the sale of it, so the only exotic things on the menu were ostrich an crocodile. None the less it was a lovely evening.
Day 41, 2011/06/11 Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Arusha
Day 41, 2011/06/11 Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Arusha
The campsite, being the only one, is a hive of activity. So it is up early so we can make full use of our limited time in the crater. Yeah, they charge a fortune and limit you to only 24 hours in the crater. So once again it is a 530 am start. The thing is, it is fee zing. Like being in Jhb for winter.
Anyway, after quick breakfast it is down into the crater. I must admit the crater is very interesting. The animals here do not migrate and very few come and go from it. So it is almost like a self contained echo system. It must be interesting to see how this would evolve with time, something like 100 million years.
The land scape is also very interesting. The weather some forms the south east so, the southern rim of the crater is luck and green, with this blanket of cloud poring over the rim into the crater. While on the northern side, it is barren and dry. There are also a number of rivers/streams running through it with a number of lakes. One particularly big one in the middle. The big lake looks extremely dry and has dried up considerably, but there are thousands of pink flamingos to be seen.
As for the wildlife, there are loads of wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, rhino, and antelope to be seen.
In addition, we come across two different prides of lions. One on the side of the road. They are so use to the safari vehicles, they immediately lie down next to them to use them as a form of shade. Needless to say, this makes for excellent photo taking opportunities.
Finally we have lunch in the crater where, we are attached by some birds of prey, and are forced to flee for or safari vehicle for safety. Amazing but scary.
Then the ascent out of the crater and the long road back to Arusha.
It is welcome surprise as we arrive in Arusha to final get a glimpse of mount Meru, which over looks Arusha. The last couple of days it has been overcast so, it has been difficult to get a glimpse if the 4500 m high mountain nearby.
 |
| Day 41, 2011/06/11 |
The campsite, being the only one, is a hive of activity. So it is up early so we can make full use of our limited time in the crater. Yeah, they charge a fortune and limit you to only 24 hours in the crater. So once again it is a 530 am start. The thing is, it is fee zing. Like being in Jhb for winter.
Anyway, after quick breakfast it is down into the crater. I must admit the crater is very interesting. The animals here do not migrate and very few come and go from it. So it is almost like a self contained echo system. It must be interesting to see how this would evolve with time, something like 100 million years.
The land scape is also very interesting. The weather some forms the south east so, the southern rim of the crater is luck and green, with this blanket of cloud poring over the rim into the crater. While on the northern side, it is barren and dry. There are also a number of rivers/streams running through it with a number of lakes. One particularly big one in the middle. The big lake looks extremely dry and has dried up considerably, but there are thousands of pink flamingos to be seen.
As for the wildlife, there are loads of wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, rhino, and antelope to be seen.
In addition, we come across two different prides of lions. One on the side of the road. They are so use to the safari vehicles, they immediately lie down next to them to use them as a form of shade. Needless to say, this makes for excellent photo taking opportunities.
Finally we have lunch in the crater where, we are attached by some birds of prey, and are forced to flee for or safari vehicle for safety. Amazing but scary.
Then the ascent out of the crater and the long road back to Arusha.
It is welcome surprise as we arrive in Arusha to final get a glimpse of mount Meru, which over looks Arusha. The last couple of days it has been overcast so, it has been difficult to get a glimpse if the 4500 m high mountain nearby.
Thursday 16 June 2011
Day 40, 2011/06/10 Serengeti to Ngorongoro crater and Simba campsite
Day 40, 2011/06/10 Serengeti to Ngorongoro crater and Simba campsite
We have a late morning game drive and then we pack up and drive back to Ngorongoro crater in the afternoon. I am relived that, i do not need to get up early while it is still dark. Me a early mornings are not friends.
We decide to head back to the waterhole from last night. When we get there, we discover that, where the pride of lions were yesterday, are the two male lions of the pack to be seen. All yup see, are these big heads peering through the long grass with these huge manes.
We drive a little further on, and find the rest of the pride, basking in the sun. While we are sitting observing them, a whole lot of Gizel arrive and make they way to the river. Unknown to them straight toward the lions. We decide to wait it out and see what unfolds. It is truly amazing how the antelope, slowly just make their way towards the water while lions sit and wait. Eventually the lions cotton onto what is coming towards them and disappear from view. Then it all happens so quickly, there is a frantic dispersion of animals in all directions and from what ewe could see one did not manage to get away. Yeah, the sight of a limb being carried away by one of the lions was a clear sign that the hunt had been successful.
Well that was a first for me. Always been on game drives whee you see a lion on the hunt or, lions eating the hunt but, never seen it actually happen.
After that we eventually come across a number of safari vehicles congregated at what looks like a ant heap. Well it was an ant heap however, behind it we spotted a leopard walking in the long grass. A rare site to since, they are normally nocturnal and hence seldom seen during the day.
Then off to campsite for a quick pack up and go. Yes that lovely long, horrible road to Ngorongoro Crater and Simba campsite.
The campsite is situated on the rim of the crater, with some amazing views of the crater. It is at an altitude of 2600 m so, is reasonably chilly, and for the first time on the trip, I get to use a sleeping bag.
 |
| Day 40, 2011/06/10 |
We have a late morning game drive and then we pack up and drive back to Ngorongoro crater in the afternoon. I am relived that, i do not need to get up early while it is still dark. Me a early mornings are not friends.
We decide to head back to the waterhole from last night. When we get there, we discover that, where the pride of lions were yesterday, are the two male lions of the pack to be seen. All yup see, are these big heads peering through the long grass with these huge manes.
We drive a little further on, and find the rest of the pride, basking in the sun. While we are sitting observing them, a whole lot of Gizel arrive and make they way to the river. Unknown to them straight toward the lions. We decide to wait it out and see what unfolds. It is truly amazing how the antelope, slowly just make their way towards the water while lions sit and wait. Eventually the lions cotton onto what is coming towards them and disappear from view. Then it all happens so quickly, there is a frantic dispersion of animals in all directions and from what ewe could see one did not manage to get away. Yeah, the sight of a limb being carried away by one of the lions was a clear sign that the hunt had been successful.
Well that was a first for me. Always been on game drives whee you see a lion on the hunt or, lions eating the hunt but, never seen it actually happen.
After that we eventually come across a number of safari vehicles congregated at what looks like a ant heap. Well it was an ant heap however, behind it we spotted a leopard walking in the long grass. A rare site to since, they are normally nocturnal and hence seldom seen during the day.
Then off to campsite for a quick pack up and go. Yes that lovely long, horrible road to Ngorongoro Crater and Simba campsite.
The campsite is situated on the rim of the crater, with some amazing views of the crater. It is at an altitude of 2600 m so, is reasonably chilly, and for the first time on the trip, I get to use a sleeping bag.
Day 39, 2011/06/09 in the Serengeti
Day 39, 2011/06/09 in the Serengeti
After doing all that traveling yesterday, we decide to keep the safari close to home. So we up early, 530 am. For the who know me, that is fucking early!
The morning game drive is relatively uneventful except for the spotting of a lioness with two little cubs. Very cute.
Then back to the campsite for brunch and a chill. Not sure how one chills in this heat when your tent is baking in the sun!
Then off for the late afternoon game drive where, we decide just to sit and chill at the closets water hole. It was soo nice after all that driving around, just to sit and chill and watch nature slowly unfold in front of us. Watching the hippos rolling over in the mud looked soo tempting in this heat. Just before leaving, we got wind that there was a pack of lions. After close observation, we find a pack numbering in the order of 25 lions. The pack included as many as 8 young lion cubs, which were playing all so nicely with each other in the coolness of the afternoon.
 |
| Day 39, 2011/06/09 |
After doing all that traveling yesterday, we decide to keep the safari close to home. So we up early, 530 am. For the who know me, that is fucking early!
The morning game drive is relatively uneventful except for the spotting of a lioness with two little cubs. Very cute.
Then back to the campsite for brunch and a chill. Not sure how one chills in this heat when your tent is baking in the sun!
Then off for the late afternoon game drive where, we decide just to sit and chill at the closets water hole. It was soo nice after all that driving around, just to sit and chill and watch nature slowly unfold in front of us. Watching the hippos rolling over in the mud looked soo tempting in this heat. Just before leaving, we got wind that there was a pack of lions. After close observation, we find a pack numbering in the order of 25 lions. The pack included as many as 8 young lion cubs, which were playing all so nicely with each other in the coolness of the afternoon.
Day 38, 2011/06/08 Seronera in the Serengeti
Day 38, 2011/06/08 Seronera in the Serengeti
We had heard from the other Canadian bikers w met that, they had scene the migration a couple of days earlier so, we made Mike, from Tanzania Private Select that this is one of the things we would love to see. Dixon, the driver/guide said he would take is there today.
After a late start, we are finally off on our first game drive. After visiting the first watering hole and seeing our first lion, we come across migrating Zebra. Yes, they together with the wildebeest migrate at the same time. So we are lucky to experience this to. Where ever one looks, there is just black and white stripes. And coming from as far as your eye can see, there are more arriving! I have never seen soo many animals in one place, let alone zebra.
But on we must, if we want to see those wildebeest. And boy was it on, at least a furtherr three hours, along some horribly kept dirt roads. Wonder where all those park fees are being used?
Anyway, we eventually get there. An airstrip marks the spot along a branch of the Grumeti river. The Grumeti river, is the river we seen in those documentaries on the Serengeti where,the crocks are sitting waiting for the innocent wildebeest to cross. We are not that fortunate, they have already crossed so no live kills are to be witnessed however, just on the other side of the banks an amazing sites and SOUNDS await us. There are thousand upon thousand of wildebeest everywhere. And the sound, defining. All you can hear is the sound of grunting wildebeest. Under every tree, they hAve congregated, and the not lucky enough to get shade, just bake in the son. The more we drive,the more of them there appears to be. They are everywhere, like a swarm of locusts, only that they are not locusts but big wildebeest. I took many oils and video clips however, none of them reveal the true spectical of being in the middle of this all. This was worth all those miles on the bike, all those sore bums, and worth every cent it cost thus far!
After a lovely lunch parked under some trees, we wind our way along the Grumeti river. It is very dry and low, and we cpm across some really big crocks baking in the sun. You can clearly see that they have had a feast or two of late, nd look anything but starving. I am sure the previous couple of days must hVe been N amazing spectical to watch how these wildebeest crossed and how the crocks caught the unfortunate one who simply did not make it.
Once our day had been made with seeing the migration it was three hours back to camp.
 |
| Day 38, 2011/06/08 |
We had heard from the other Canadian bikers w met that, they had scene the migration a couple of days earlier so, we made Mike, from Tanzania Private Select that this is one of the things we would love to see. Dixon, the driver/guide said he would take is there today.
After a late start, we are finally off on our first game drive. After visiting the first watering hole and seeing our first lion, we come across migrating Zebra. Yes, they together with the wildebeest migrate at the same time. So we are lucky to experience this to. Where ever one looks, there is just black and white stripes. And coming from as far as your eye can see, there are more arriving! I have never seen soo many animals in one place, let alone zebra.
But on we must, if we want to see those wildebeest. And boy was it on, at least a furtherr three hours, along some horribly kept dirt roads. Wonder where all those park fees are being used?
Anyway, we eventually get there. An airstrip marks the spot along a branch of the Grumeti river. The Grumeti river, is the river we seen in those documentaries on the Serengeti where,the crocks are sitting waiting for the innocent wildebeest to cross. We are not that fortunate, they have already crossed so no live kills are to be witnessed however, just on the other side of the banks an amazing sites and SOUNDS await us. There are thousand upon thousand of wildebeest everywhere. And the sound, defining. All you can hear is the sound of grunting wildebeest. Under every tree, they hAve congregated, and the not lucky enough to get shade, just bake in the son. The more we drive,the more of them there appears to be. They are everywhere, like a swarm of locusts, only that they are not locusts but big wildebeest. I took many oils and video clips however, none of them reveal the true spectical of being in the middle of this all. This was worth all those miles on the bike, all those sore bums, and worth every cent it cost thus far!
After a lovely lunch parked under some trees, we wind our way along the Grumeti river. It is very dry and low, and we cpm across some really big crocks baking in the sun. You can clearly see that they have had a feast or two of late, nd look anything but starving. I am sure the previous couple of days must hVe been N amazing spectical to watch how these wildebeest crossed and how the crocks caught the unfortunate one who simply did not make it.
Once our day had been made with seeing the migration it was three hours back to camp.
Tuesday 14 June 2011
Day 37, 2011/06/07 Arusha to Seronera in the Serengeti
Day 37, 2011/06/07 Arusha to Seronera in the Serengeti
I am up early. Need to pack tent and find place to leave my bike. Dixon, our safari driver and guide, is there to pick my up from Masai camp at 9.30 am.
Then it is off to pickup David and Heather, and Lizzie. Lizzie is from the UK, she is having a bit of gap year after finishing studying and has been in South Tanzania volunteering for three months as a maths teacher. She is very impressive with the amount os Shwahili she has managed to learn in that time.
The drive to Seronera is about 300 km so a long day awaits us. The vehicle we are traveling in is a Land Rover Defender 110, so I am feeling right at home with the engine noises, the top heavy handling at speed etc.
The scenery driving out of Arusha in a westerly direction is very interesting. One is made immediately aware of the dryness. Yes, one would think one is in the Northern Cape province. The bushes, trees and shrubs are very similar to those found in the arid Noether Cape. What is also apparent is the over grazing that is taking place. This, together with what appears to be poor farming techniques has resulted in some very bad soil erosion in places. Not a nice sight to see.
About 2 hours into our trip, we pass the Lake Manyara, and it's national park. A stunning sight. Then we start our ascent to the Ngorongoro crater. What I did not know was that, the rim of the crater sits at an altitude of 2600 m above sea level, that is about double the height of the surrounding planes.
After doing all the formalities at the gate to the conservation area, it is a short drive to the lookout point, and what a sight. Below one is the entire Ngorongoro crater. It's sizable and magnitude is immediately made aware to us.
However, this is going to be our last day not our first, so we need to make tracks to the Serengeti, still a further 2 and 1/2 hours from here.
As one then descends to the Serengeti,the terrain becomes even more dry and barren. We come across a number of Masai bomas. Life must be tough in this landscape, and one sees all across the landscape, these cattle highway tracks left behind from the Masai herding their cattle across the planes. Another sign of over grassing and poor farming.
Anyway, the road really then turns nasty! It becomes this dusty, dry, never been graded road from hell! One begins to wonder, with all the US dollars that pay in terms of park fees, why this road is not at least graded, let alone tarred by now!
Another sign of corruption at it's best. Anyway, we eventually arrive at the entrance to the park, and then its main gate. After the formalities are done, it is off to Seronera, the main, central campsite, where we arrive just in time to setup tent and enjoy a beautiful sunset.
 |
| Day 37, 2011/06/07 |
I am up early. Need to pack tent and find place to leave my bike. Dixon, our safari driver and guide, is there to pick my up from Masai camp at 9.30 am.
Then it is off to pickup David and Heather, and Lizzie. Lizzie is from the UK, she is having a bit of gap year after finishing studying and has been in South Tanzania volunteering for three months as a maths teacher. She is very impressive with the amount os Shwahili she has managed to learn in that time.
The drive to Seronera is about 300 km so a long day awaits us. The vehicle we are traveling in is a Land Rover Defender 110, so I am feeling right at home with the engine noises, the top heavy handling at speed etc.
The scenery driving out of Arusha in a westerly direction is very interesting. One is made immediately aware of the dryness. Yes, one would think one is in the Northern Cape province. The bushes, trees and shrubs are very similar to those found in the arid Noether Cape. What is also apparent is the over grazing that is taking place. This, together with what appears to be poor farming techniques has resulted in some very bad soil erosion in places. Not a nice sight to see.
About 2 hours into our trip, we pass the Lake Manyara, and it's national park. A stunning sight. Then we start our ascent to the Ngorongoro crater. What I did not know was that, the rim of the crater sits at an altitude of 2600 m above sea level, that is about double the height of the surrounding planes.
After doing all the formalities at the gate to the conservation area, it is a short drive to the lookout point, and what a sight. Below one is the entire Ngorongoro crater. It's sizable and magnitude is immediately made aware to us.
However, this is going to be our last day not our first, so we need to make tracks to the Serengeti, still a further 2 and 1/2 hours from here.
As one then descends to the Serengeti,the terrain becomes even more dry and barren. We come across a number of Masai bomas. Life must be tough in this landscape, and one sees all across the landscape, these cattle highway tracks left behind from the Masai herding their cattle across the planes. Another sign of over grassing and poor farming.
Anyway, the road really then turns nasty! It becomes this dusty, dry, never been graded road from hell! One begins to wonder, with all the US dollars that pay in terms of park fees, why this road is not at least graded, let alone tarred by now!
Another sign of corruption at it's best. Anyway, we eventually arrive at the entrance to the park, and then its main gate. After the formalities are done, it is off to Seronera, the main, central campsite, where we arrive just in time to setup tent and enjoy a beautiful sunset.
Monday 13 June 2011
Day 36, 2011/06/06 Arusha
Day 36, 2011/06/06 Arusha
Feeling better but still not out of the woods, so I keep taking the Malaria pills. I have been told that they are very strong however, I do not experience any untoward affects at all. David's wife Heather arrives today,she will be joining us safari from tomorrow. She is also bringing my bikes spares, which will restore a certain level of comfort back into my state of mind.
While David is off to the airport, I am going to see ifi can fix my hooter AGAIN!
Yeah, it stopped working coming into Arusha, and it is an essential tool in this traffic,to keep yourself alive.
Soon discover I need a new hooter. The old one has been fiddled with a little too much. So off to town,into the peak Monday madness. And what madness it is! People just do what they want on the road. And I soon have to swallow that western way of driving and adopt the central African way. Surprisingly, with all the bad driving everything works and flows and, in addition, I find the people far more courteous than Johannesburg. Not that that is perhaps a good yardstick to use a baseline!
You would think that a simple car hooter/horn would be simple to find in a bustling place like Arusha. Well no not really. Eventually find a place will sell me a pair for R140. No, he will not split the box it comes in. After purchasing the pair, i discover that,it is not the horn that is not working but in fact the hooter button that is on the blink. But that will have to wait, because first I am meeting up with David and Heather, and we are off to the safari company to make payment. Heather looks pleased to been able to join us, and she is looking forward to the safari. In addition, she has brought my spares with which David's son Warren managed to get for me. What a relief to have the spares finally. No more need to stress!
Ihave never had to pay a million something or other in my life before, and handing over a million Shillings was an experience!just the counting it out took forever!
Once done, David,Heather and I head for a lovely new coffee shop we spotted and enjoy the most upmarket meal i must have had since leaving Johannesburg.
Then it is off to source a soldering iron and extension cords to see if can fix that darn hooter!
It was actually not difficult to source a cheap soldering iron, with solder and extension cord. And boy you get what you pay for! The solder was some Taiwan cheap shit! It would melt once and once only! The second time you tried to melt it,it would turn into this thick crystalline paste, which was of no use! So what should have taken me no more than 10 minutes, took me me an hour and a half. And by that stage, it w starting to get dark. So just enough time for a dinner and a good lovely shower, then bed!
 |
| Day 36, 2011/06/06 |
Feeling better but still not out of the woods, so I keep taking the Malaria pills. I have been told that they are very strong however, I do not experience any untoward affects at all. David's wife Heather arrives today,she will be joining us safari from tomorrow. She is also bringing my bikes spares, which will restore a certain level of comfort back into my state of mind.
While David is off to the airport, I am going to see ifi can fix my hooter AGAIN!
Yeah, it stopped working coming into Arusha, and it is an essential tool in this traffic,to keep yourself alive.
Soon discover I need a new hooter. The old one has been fiddled with a little too much. So off to town,into the peak Monday madness. And what madness it is! People just do what they want on the road. And I soon have to swallow that western way of driving and adopt the central African way. Surprisingly, with all the bad driving everything works and flows and, in addition, I find the people far more courteous than Johannesburg. Not that that is perhaps a good yardstick to use a baseline!
You would think that a simple car hooter/horn would be simple to find in a bustling place like Arusha. Well no not really. Eventually find a place will sell me a pair for R140. No, he will not split the box it comes in. After purchasing the pair, i discover that,it is not the horn that is not working but in fact the hooter button that is on the blink. But that will have to wait, because first I am meeting up with David and Heather, and we are off to the safari company to make payment. Heather looks pleased to been able to join us, and she is looking forward to the safari. In addition, she has brought my spares with which David's son Warren managed to get for me. What a relief to have the spares finally. No more need to stress!
Ihave never had to pay a million something or other in my life before, and handing over a million Shillings was an experience!just the counting it out took forever!
Once done, David,Heather and I head for a lovely new coffee shop we spotted and enjoy the most upmarket meal i must have had since leaving Johannesburg.
Then it is off to source a soldering iron and extension cords to see if can fix that darn hooter!
It was actually not difficult to source a cheap soldering iron, with solder and extension cord. And boy you get what you pay for! The solder was some Taiwan cheap shit! It would melt once and once only! The second time you tried to melt it,it would turn into this thick crystalline paste, which was of no use! So what should have taken me no more than 10 minutes, took me me an hour and a half. And by that stage, it w starting to get dark. So just enough time for a dinner and a good lovely shower, then bed!
Day 35, 2011/06/05 Arusha
Day 35, 2011/06/05 Arusha
Woke up feeling as if the previous two days were a bad dream. Not sure yet if I really have the malaria or not but did have fever the night before when I went to bed, and did experience wet sweats all throughout the night. And, the malaria pills do appear to be the link between me feeling really crap and feeling alive again. I did also have a wound on my ankle which, was really badly infected, to the point where, my whole ankle was swollen. Not sure, anyway, feel like i can at let venture into town. After sorting out all sorts of odds and ends, we finally make our way into town, forgetting that it is Sunday today, so most things are closed, and the traffic is a pleasure. We find an Internet cafe and at the same time get harassed by dozens of people offering us safaris.
We eventually find a company called Tanzanian Private Select, run by a guy called Mike. He came in especially on Sunday afternoon to see us. He was really professional. Showed us where the migration currently was, in the west corridor, on the big map he had. He also accommodated our desires of having a 5 day safari. And when it came to the price, he was even cheaper than the lowest quote we have gotten thus far, and within our budget. $675 worked out to approximately R4500, which if we got to see the migration and Ngorongoro crater would have been well worth it.
Once we had booked, David headed off for a ride, and I headed off to the car wash place I had spotted. The Bitch, as my bike is known, had not be cleaned since we left Johannesburg, and I w starting to get that guilty feeling of being an abusive owner.
The car was place turned out to be very interesting, like most things in Africa. They did not have electricity, so no high power sprays, all manual labour. You had the option of either soap,or no soap. Yes, you heard that right! The place had these big water reservoirs where water was pumped into via a petrol pump, straight form the river itself. It was this browny colour. Spray like affect was created by the guy washing the vehicle by, throwing a half full backer of water at the vehicle as hard as he could. Did appear to be working. Shame, the guy initially only wanted R10 for washing my bike but, after seeing how long it took him and, how hard he worked I tipped him and paid him R20.
 |
| Day 35, 2011/06/05 |
Woke up feeling as if the previous two days were a bad dream. Not sure yet if I really have the malaria or not but did have fever the night before when I went to bed, and did experience wet sweats all throughout the night. And, the malaria pills do appear to be the link between me feeling really crap and feeling alive again. I did also have a wound on my ankle which, was really badly infected, to the point where, my whole ankle was swollen. Not sure, anyway, feel like i can at let venture into town. After sorting out all sorts of odds and ends, we finally make our way into town, forgetting that it is Sunday today, so most things are closed, and the traffic is a pleasure. We find an Internet cafe and at the same time get harassed by dozens of people offering us safaris.
We eventually find a company called Tanzanian Private Select, run by a guy called Mike. He came in especially on Sunday afternoon to see us. He was really professional. Showed us where the migration currently was, in the west corridor, on the big map he had. He also accommodated our desires of having a 5 day safari. And when it came to the price, he was even cheaper than the lowest quote we have gotten thus far, and within our budget. $675 worked out to approximately R4500, which if we got to see the migration and Ngorongoro crater would have been well worth it.
Once we had booked, David headed off for a ride, and I headed off to the car wash place I had spotted. The Bitch, as my bike is known, had not be cleaned since we left Johannesburg, and I w starting to get that guilty feeling of being an abusive owner.
The car was place turned out to be very interesting, like most things in Africa. They did not have electricity, so no high power sprays, all manual labour. You had the option of either soap,or no soap. Yes, you heard that right! The place had these big water reservoirs where water was pumped into via a petrol pump, straight form the river itself. It was this browny colour. Spray like affect was created by the guy washing the vehicle by, throwing a half full backer of water at the vehicle as hard as he could. Did appear to be working. Shame, the guy initially only wanted R10 for washing my bike but, after seeing how long it took him and, how hard he worked I tipped him and paid him R20.
Sunday 5 June 2011
Day 34, 2011/06/04 Arusha
Day 34, 2011/06/04 Arusha
After saying goodbye to our Canadian biking friends, I decide to do another Malaria test. I have a headache, neck is sore, feel fluish, have an upset stomach, and can feel that I have starting to get a fever. All signs of Malaria. The second test is again negative! However, the nurse at the travel clinic did say, if you feel like you have it and, the test keep on coming back negative, just take the medication, it can do you no harm. Also, the tests are not 100%, and considering they have been in my panniers for all this time and been exposed to high temp,they may have been damaged in the process. So I heed to the side of caution, and decide to start taking the medication. Not feeling at all well, I decide to spend the whole day in my tent sleeping. David, decides to head for town, and the travel expo happening there to see if he can see what options are available for us with regards to going on safari.
David comes back with loads of pamphlets and a number of options. We decide to give it a day and make the choice then.
After dinner I come down with a fever, and am forced to go find warmth in my tent. Throughout the night, I awake to cold sweats where all my clothing is drenched,another sign I have Malaria.
After saying goodbye to our Canadian biking friends, I decide to do another Malaria test. I have a headache, neck is sore, feel fluish, have an upset stomach, and can feel that I have starting to get a fever. All signs of Malaria. The second test is again negative! However, the nurse at the travel clinic did say, if you feel like you have it and, the test keep on coming back negative, just take the medication, it can do you no harm. Also, the tests are not 100%, and considering they have been in my panniers for all this time and been exposed to high temp,they may have been damaged in the process. So I heed to the side of caution, and decide to start taking the medication. Not feeling at all well, I decide to spend the whole day in my tent sleeping. David, decides to head for town, and the travel expo happening there to see if he can see what options are available for us with regards to going on safari.
David comes back with loads of pamphlets and a number of options. We decide to give it a day and make the choice then.
After dinner I come down with a fever, and am forced to go find warmth in my tent. Throughout the night, I awake to cold sweats where all my clothing is drenched,another sign I have Malaria.
Day 33, 2011/06/03 Koronge to Arusha via Moshi and Kilimanjaro
Day 33, 2011/06/03 Koronge to Arusha via Moshi and Kilimanjaro
It is lovely feeling packing up one's camping gear and not bursting out into a sweat because of the humidity! What a pleasure. We are the road early and thank god for my 5 liters of petrol in my Jerry can because, it is not long that run out of fuel. After a quick emptying of the Jerry can, we are on our way again. We eventually arrive in a little town and fill up with fuel. I also manage to find a roadside food stall which servers tea and japati bread. David and I whip out our honey, we purchase all the way back in Mozambique, together with peanut butter and proceed to have the most amazing breakfast on the trip thus far. When I am back in Johannesburg, I am going to make myself peanut butter pancakes, and see if they are as nice.
After a lovely breakfast, it is back on the bikes to Moshi. 100 km from Moshi, our map says we should see glimpses of mount Kilimanjaro however, the clouds do not play along and we are horribly disappointed. Even on arrival in Moshi, we still are unable to get a glimpse of the mountain.
So finally off to Arusha. On the way,I encounter the worse driving i have ever experienced. Cars that overtake with on coming traffic, and force the on coming traffic off the road. Minibus taxis and busses that drive through traffic calming zones with huge speed humps at 100 km/h and in the process force other people off the road. All I can say, what a nightmare! Anyway, we eventually arrive in Maasai campsite, to discover that our fellow Canadian bikers are also there. They share their Safari experience with us, and the fact that they managed to see parts of the great migration makes us green with envy!
I am not feeling very well and are showing all the symptoms of Malaria, so decide to do the test. The testis negative however, I still feel like shit!
 |
| Day 33, 2011/06/03 |
It is lovely feeling packing up one's camping gear and not bursting out into a sweat because of the humidity! What a pleasure. We are the road early and thank god for my 5 liters of petrol in my Jerry can because, it is not long that run out of fuel. After a quick emptying of the Jerry can, we are on our way again. We eventually arrive in a little town and fill up with fuel. I also manage to find a roadside food stall which servers tea and japati bread. David and I whip out our honey, we purchase all the way back in Mozambique, together with peanut butter and proceed to have the most amazing breakfast on the trip thus far. When I am back in Johannesburg, I am going to make myself peanut butter pancakes, and see if they are as nice.
After a lovely breakfast, it is back on the bikes to Moshi. 100 km from Moshi, our map says we should see glimpses of mount Kilimanjaro however, the clouds do not play along and we are horribly disappointed. Even on arrival in Moshi, we still are unable to get a glimpse of the mountain.
So finally off to Arusha. On the way,I encounter the worse driving i have ever experienced. Cars that overtake with on coming traffic, and force the on coming traffic off the road. Minibus taxis and busses that drive through traffic calming zones with huge speed humps at 100 km/h and in the process force other people off the road. All I can say, what a nightmare! Anyway, we eventually arrive in Maasai campsite, to discover that our fellow Canadian bikers are also there. They share their Safari experience with us, and the fact that they managed to see parts of the great migration makes us green with envy!
I am not feeling very well and are showing all the symptoms of Malaria, so decide to do the test. The testis negative however, I still feel like shit!
Day 32, 2011/06/02 Dar el Salam to Korongwe
Day 32, 2011/06/02 Dar el Salam to Korongwe
Will we ever learn! If the road is shown on the map as been secondary, why would it be tar! Yeah, we decided to take a shorter route, and cut out a fair section of the A7, by going north via Bagamoyo. The first 80 km were lovely tar road. The only problem was that we ha to deal with Dar traffic. Leaving at 9 am, thought things would be better. Well as for that thought! What a nightmare! Traffic just does it's own thing. I stopped at a red light only to be almost knocked over by a flying minibus taxi, who swerved to avoid me and went straight through the traffic light,while hooting and shouting at me. Eventually, I just did what ever everyone else around me did. If they went through red, i did, if they stopped,which was almost never, so did I!
Anyway,after clearing the traffic eventually, the road settled down to a lovely tarred section of road, which lasted up until Bagamoyo. Then,it became one of those horrible roads which has never been graded in its entire life! The kind were if you manage to average 20 km in an hour,it was good going. Well I guess it was not raining, so the gods were smiling down on us, I guess.
Three hours later,we eventually hit the main tar road going north, and once again, like on many other occasions on this trip, I feel like getting down only knees and kissing the Tarmac! After a quick plate of chips for lunch at one of the roadside food stores, it is back on the bike for remaining 250 km. It is nice to be on a nice, well maintained road again, and we are able to sit at close to 100 km/h. The scenery slowly changes and becomes mountainous and lovely and green. We come across huge pineapple plantations. So big that,they stretch from on horizon to the next. A very impressive sight.
The overnight spot is a place called Green Hills, well that is where the Canadian bikers were going to stay. However, on arrival, we discover that has closed down, and are shown away. No fear, we will just search for something else on the GPS. We find something, and head of further down the road however, the place we eventually find is very dodgy looking and we decide to try another place. The next place,is about 2 km up the mountain on a dirt road. On arrival, we find another campsite that has closed down and been deserted. The only difference here,is that there is no one around. So David and I decide to do our first "bush camp" of the trip. Because of the altitude here, the air temp is lovely and cool, and the absence of humidity for once is a pleasure!
 |
| Day 32, 2011/06/02 |
Will we ever learn! If the road is shown on the map as been secondary, why would it be tar! Yeah, we decided to take a shorter route, and cut out a fair section of the A7, by going north via Bagamoyo. The first 80 km were lovely tar road. The only problem was that we ha to deal with Dar traffic. Leaving at 9 am, thought things would be better. Well as for that thought! What a nightmare! Traffic just does it's own thing. I stopped at a red light only to be almost knocked over by a flying minibus taxi, who swerved to avoid me and went straight through the traffic light,while hooting and shouting at me. Eventually, I just did what ever everyone else around me did. If they went through red, i did, if they stopped,which was almost never, so did I!
Anyway,after clearing the traffic eventually, the road settled down to a lovely tarred section of road, which lasted up until Bagamoyo. Then,it became one of those horrible roads which has never been graded in its entire life! The kind were if you manage to average 20 km in an hour,it was good going. Well I guess it was not raining, so the gods were smiling down on us, I guess.
Three hours later,we eventually hit the main tar road going north, and once again, like on many other occasions on this trip, I feel like getting down only knees and kissing the Tarmac! After a quick plate of chips for lunch at one of the roadside food stores, it is back on the bike for remaining 250 km. It is nice to be on a nice, well maintained road again, and we are able to sit at close to 100 km/h. The scenery slowly changes and becomes mountainous and lovely and green. We come across huge pineapple plantations. So big that,they stretch from on horizon to the next. A very impressive sight.
The overnight spot is a place called Green Hills, well that is where the Canadian bikers were going to stay. However, on arrival, we discover that has closed down, and are shown away. No fear, we will just search for something else on the GPS. We find something, and head of further down the road however, the place we eventually find is very dodgy looking and we decide to try another place. The next place,is about 2 km up the mountain on a dirt road. On arrival, we find another campsite that has closed down and been deserted. The only difference here,is that there is no one around. So David and I decide to do our first "bush camp" of the trip. Because of the altitude here, the air temp is lovely and cool, and the absence of humidity for once is a pleasure!
Day 31, 2011/06/01 Zanzibar to Dar el Salam
Day 31, 2011/06/01 Zanzibar to Dar el Salam
Three days is not enough time to spend in Zanzibar but, we have loads of road ahead and need to move on. At least, we now know that we will have to return at a later date, and make sure we stay a lot longer.
He'll, the list of places I want to come back to is growing ever longer. May need another life to just come back and see it all.
Anyway, after a short walk around the streets and markets, it is off to the harbor to catch the ferry to Dar. We meet up with our fellow Dutch overlanders who are also heading back to Dar. They have also had a stunning time in Zanzibar.
The trip back is pretty uneventful and we are back in Makadi Beach towards the late afternoon. Our bikes and equipment are all safe and sound.
Three days is not enough time to spend in Zanzibar but, we have loads of road ahead and need to move on. At least, we now know that we will have to return at a later date, and make sure we stay a lot longer.
He'll, the list of places I want to come back to is growing ever longer. May need another life to just come back and see it all.
Anyway, after a short walk around the streets and markets, it is off to the harbor to catch the ferry to Dar. We meet up with our fellow Dutch overlanders who are also heading back to Dar. They have also had a stunning time in Zanzibar.
The trip back is pretty uneventful and we are back in Makadi Beach towards the late afternoon. Our bikes and equipment are all safe and sound.
 |
| Day 31, 2011/06/01 |
Day 30, 2011/05/31 Zanzibar
Day 30, 2011/05/31 Zanzibar
David has decided to join up with Nick and Christine, fellow overland bikers from Durban. They want to hire Vespasian scooters and go around the island. I on the other hand have decided to do a spice tour. We get picked up at the hostel and get taken by minibus to a farm about 15 km out of town. There are about 25 of us in total, mostly young students. The spice tour is stunning, and I learn a lot about things and where they come from. Like, I did not know vanilla is in fact a bean. We also get to see coffee, coco, nutmeg, lemon grass, Ginger, cinnamon etc.
After a simple, local lunch, we are taken to a local beach. Really lovely, except for the large quantities of garbage. Such a shame! Also get the opportunity to meet some lovely people from Norway, china and Switzerland.
Our final dinner, is spent in the open food stalls. Third time round, we know which stalls to vist, and which to avoid. After eating and drinking too much sugarcane we eventually make it back to Jumbo Guest House.
 |
| Day 30, 2011/05/31 |
David has decided to join up with Nick and Christine, fellow overland bikers from Durban. They want to hire Vespasian scooters and go around the island. I on the other hand have decided to do a spice tour. We get picked up at the hostel and get taken by minibus to a farm about 15 km out of town. There are about 25 of us in total, mostly young students. The spice tour is stunning, and I learn a lot about things and where they come from. Like, I did not know vanilla is in fact a bean. We also get to see coffee, coco, nutmeg, lemon grass, Ginger, cinnamon etc.
After a simple, local lunch, we are taken to a local beach. Really lovely, except for the large quantities of garbage. Such a shame! Also get the opportunity to meet some lovely people from Norway, china and Switzerland.
Our final dinner, is spent in the open food stalls. Third time round, we know which stalls to vist, and which to avoid. After eating and drinking too much sugarcane we eventually make it back to Jumbo Guest House.
Day 29, 2011/05/30 Zanzibar
Day 29, 2011/05/30 Zanzibar
We report at One Ocean dive centre bright and early. Eventually the others arrive, including the Dutch over landing couple we met in Dar. We all jump onto this really big dhow nd head out to sea. About 40 min later we arrive at some reefs. To say this must rate. The second best dive, after the red sea, I have ever had. The corals were nothing short of amazing! And the fish,although all small were numerous.
Amazing! Will def want to come back and do this again.
After two awesome dives, and a lovely spread for lunch, we head back for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.
Then off to a relaxing dinner at the open food stalls and some of that amazing sugarcane juice.
We report at One Ocean dive centre bright and early. Eventually the others arrive, including the Dutch over landing couple we met in Dar. We all jump onto this really big dhow nd head out to sea. About 40 min later we arrive at some reefs. To say this must rate. The second best dive, after the red sea, I have ever had. The corals were nothing short of amazing! And the fish,although all small were numerous.
Amazing! Will def want to come back and do this again.
After two awesome dives, and a lovely spread for lunch, we head back for an afternoon of rest and relaxation.
Then off to a relaxing dinner at the open food stalls and some of that amazing sugarcane juice.
 |
| Day 29, 2011/05/30 |
Day 28, 2011/05/29 Dar El Salam to Zanzibar on the ferry
Day 28, 2011/05/29 Dar El Salam to Zanzibar on the ferry
Since it is sunday, the city appears relatively slow in comparison to the last couple of days. We are up early since, we have to catch the 930 am ferry to Zanzibar. We also leaving all our stuff in Makida beach, so we have get all our stuff in order to store. Once everything is packed, we walk to the main road where we catch a local minibus taxi to the main ferry and then take walk from there to the fast ferry terminal. It is organized chaos. There are all these guys trying to convince you that that you have reserved with them, and trying to win your bussiness. Can be very frustrating at times. Eventually we find the correct ferry office, and after parting with 70 dollars of our cash we are able to board. Like most things in Africa, it is running late but, we manage to get going eeventually. It is a lovely ferry, well air-conditioned and comfi seats. The trip across is about an hour and I try catch up on some sleep. They show some videos onboard, one of which is Leon Schuster's, Mr Bones. It was actually amazing to see how his movies, simple and stupid as they are, are so popular here. The people were laughing there headed off. Very interesting to see and perhaps now, I can understand why he has made soo much money from his movies.
We arrive and are subjected to passport control. Yes, Zanzibar although part of Tanzania thinks it's self a country of it's own. They even ask us for our yellow fever certificates! Fascinating!
David and decide to not catch a taxi but rather walk to our accommodation. Stone town has thousands of little allies and, there is no logic to the way they run. So we get very lost and eventually come across a food market. Most interesting to see and experience. We end up buying lovely fresh dates and end up drinking some freshly squeezed juices. Amazing!
Eventually, after seeking assistance, we find Jumbo Guest House. A lovely clean place, and for 15 dollars, including breakfast we have found home for the next three nights.
After dropping off our bags, we make way to the old fort in search of things to do for the day. We come across a museum which covers the history of the Swahili culture. Very interesting. It shows how the Arab, Indian, Black and
Portueges cultures have combined to create this amazing melting pot and culture.
We also find the dive centre and book both a dive and snorkel for following day.
Then it is back to the guest house for a quick shower and then off to the open air food markets we have heard about. These markets, are held in the main gardens near the fort. It is amazing to see. The food on display is amazing. The fish stalls are full of all sorts of fish including lobster, barracuda, king, and squid. I eventually try a Tanzanian pizza. It turns out to be an omelet and is also, like most things here friend. Nothing really to write home about. Seconds involves trying some the fish. We get soo ripped off that we decide never to do them again!
Then it is off the guest house for some well deserved sleep.
 |
| Day 28, 2011/05/29 |
Since it is sunday, the city appears relatively slow in comparison to the last couple of days. We are up early since, we have to catch the 930 am ferry to Zanzibar. We also leaving all our stuff in Makida beach, so we have get all our stuff in order to store. Once everything is packed, we walk to the main road where we catch a local minibus taxi to the main ferry and then take walk from there to the fast ferry terminal. It is organized chaos. There are all these guys trying to convince you that that you have reserved with them, and trying to win your bussiness. Can be very frustrating at times. Eventually we find the correct ferry office, and after parting with 70 dollars of our cash we are able to board. Like most things in Africa, it is running late but, we manage to get going eeventually. It is a lovely ferry, well air-conditioned and comfi seats. The trip across is about an hour and I try catch up on some sleep. They show some videos onboard, one of which is Leon Schuster's, Mr Bones. It was actually amazing to see how his movies, simple and stupid as they are, are so popular here. The people were laughing there headed off. Very interesting to see and perhaps now, I can understand why he has made soo much money from his movies.
We arrive and are subjected to passport control. Yes, Zanzibar although part of Tanzania thinks it's self a country of it's own. They even ask us for our yellow fever certificates! Fascinating!
David and decide to not catch a taxi but rather walk to our accommodation. Stone town has thousands of little allies and, there is no logic to the way they run. So we get very lost and eventually come across a food market. Most interesting to see and experience. We end up buying lovely fresh dates and end up drinking some freshly squeezed juices. Amazing!
Eventually, after seeking assistance, we find Jumbo Guest House. A lovely clean place, and for 15 dollars, including breakfast we have found home for the next three nights.
After dropping off our bags, we make way to the old fort in search of things to do for the day. We come across a museum which covers the history of the Swahili culture. Very interesting. It shows how the Arab, Indian, Black and
Portueges cultures have combined to create this amazing melting pot and culture.
We also find the dive centre and book both a dive and snorkel for following day.
Then it is back to the guest house for a quick shower and then off to the open air food markets we have heard about. These markets, are held in the main gardens near the fort. It is amazing to see. The food on display is amazing. The fish stalls are full of all sorts of fish including lobster, barracuda, king, and squid. I eventually try a Tanzanian pizza. It turns out to be an omelet and is also, like most things here friend. Nothing really to write home about. Seconds involves trying some the fish. We get soo ripped off that we decide never to do them again!
Then it is off the guest house for some well deserved sleep.
Day 27, 2011/05/28 Dar El Salam
Day 27, 2011/05/28 Dar El Salam
We diced just to sit and chill for a day. I also needed to get my brakes bled since they were still a little soft. So day was very relaxing, nothing really note worthy.
Eventually ended up watching some rugby, in the form of the bulls against the cheetahs, and then the final of the champions league.
We diced just to sit and chill for a day. I also needed to get my brakes bled since they were still a little soft. So day was very relaxing, nothing really note worthy.
Eventually ended up watching some rugby, in the form of the bulls against the cheetahs, and then the final of the champions league.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)