Wednesday, 20 July 2011

Day 65, 2011/07/05 Moyale in Kenya, to Awasa in Ethiopia

Day 65,   2011/07/05 Moyale in Kenya, to Awasa in Ethiopia
Day 65, 2011/07/05
What I did know at the time of checking into my hotel room was that its room window overlooked the mosque. Well need I say anymore! I was waken up at 4 am bright and early! I could have sworn that, the loudspeaker was outside my window, because it was extremely loud! Anyway, i was up early and packed and ready for the boor post by 7:15 am, only to find that the Ethiopians only open their border at 8 am, and Not terribly sharp either! Anyway, so I sat at the boor post waiting and observing the goings ons. Moyale is a very interesting city. Unlike most border posts where you have city A on the one side and city B on the other Moyale expands both sides of the border, almost like former East and West Berlin. In addition, there are kids on the Ethiopian side who attend school on the Kenyan side. Yes! And they cross in the morning and cross back in the afternoons. And no they do not have passports or any identification documentation, the simply cross. Wow, i was blown away by the whole concept. I wonder where else on earth that happens. What happens during parents evenings? Do the parents then also just come across the border? 
Anyway, eventually formalities are sorted on the Kenyan side and it is off to the Ethiopian side. What immediate strikes me is the fact that I now have to drive on the right hnd side of the road. Never driven, let alone ridden on the right hand side of the road, it certainly is going to be a challenge. The passport and customs formalities are reasonably straight forward and I am officially,official in Ethiopia! Yeah,finally what a nightmare getting this far. After a quick visit to the bank to exchange some Dollars and to the petrol station for some badly needed fuel, I effectually hit the road. It is amazing how traveling alone, in a new country can pit one's nerves on edge. With no comfort zone, no one to turn to incase of help means that every sound, sluggish response, etc of the bike is analyzed, over analyzed and given, in many cases way too much of one's energies. However, I guess this is normal for anyone traveling alone into the unknown where one is dependent on a vehicle for their prosperity. Anyway, traveling on the right hand side turns out to be a lot easier than I initially thought, especially when vehicles come from the other side. They have this way ensuring that you know which side you should be on. The roads in Ethiopia, are really good. They are relatively narrow but good, which is more than can be said about northern Kenya. There is also very little traffic on the road except for odd bus and truck. The first 200 km are really good and I make good going, eventually stopping in Yovalle for lunch. I try my luck at Ethiopian cuisine, and get served a hot pot, on hot coals containing lamb and chilies. Wow!  I am pleasantly surprised. The meal however gets served with local bread called enjera/injera. It is like a sour pancake, that is the best way to describe it. It will certainly take some getting use to. After filling up both the bike and my stomach, I hit the road. 300 km to Awasa, should be relatively simple, if the roads remain the same. 
One again, never assume anything in Africa, and the next 300 km turn out to be very frustrating. The roads remained very good however, the quantity of people along the road just grew exponentially! The first 200 km were at relatively low altitudes, and hence very dry and hence relatively sparsely populated however, the next 300 km were at altitudes of over 1800 m which means wet and lushes vegetation. Hence, the people and village were everywhere, and in addition, the people may not own cars, bicycles, or motorcycles however, they use the road to walk on. No, not the side of the road, the road! Also, they tend to simply use the road, especially in small villages, as the place to congregate and chat. So the hooter is used extensively to make sure people are made aware of my arrival. 
The hilliness of the terrain, together with the number of pedestrians along the road mean I make relative slow progress and, it is a stressful, exhausted Claudio that eventually arrives in Awasa. Luckily, the previous night, I managed to do some research on Awasa and where to stay so, Adenium, which happens to be on tracks 4 Africa, is the place. Thank god for that since nothing like arriving late, in this case 18:00, and still having to find a place. The place looked more like a bar than a motel/hotel but I was happy to be safe. Trying to communicate with the staff was a nightmare, and I could clearly see that, they have very little contact with tourists. I quickly ordered a beer and some food, and because of the lack of mutual understanding, I simply just went with what ever they mentioned first. Well needless to say that, that was not a smart decision. The meal arrived with this big lump of raw mince. After several attempts, I eventually managed to persuade the waitress to cook it for me which,I could clearly see was going against the grain. The meat eventually came back semi cooked, and I manage to settle for that however, the raw taste with the injure bread which, I have not yet got my taste buds use to meant that, I did not eat much dinner. 
So it was early to bed for me, even if I was still hungry, at least I was tired. The rooms light would not work,so I called the staff who quickly arrived with a step ladder and a new bulb. The light bulb they unscrewed, was RED, and that is when the lights went on in my head! I was actually staying in the brothel rooms of bar. Now in understand why there were no showers, and why there were all these scantly dressed ladies at the bar. Needless to say, the thought of sleeping on that bed, with the bedding which I am sure had not been changed for a while, was not the most comforting thoughts.  So needless to say, I had a very restless nights sleep! 

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