Day 16, 2011/05/17 Praia de Zalala to Nampula

Day 16, 2011/05/17

Day 16, 2011/05/17 Praia de Zalala to Nampula

The lonely planet guide, refers to northern Mozambique as one of the last true frontiers. One can start understand why. Most people traveling through Africa will make it as far as Vilankulos in Mozambique and then they will head via Tete to either Zimbabwe or Malawi. With no proper bridges across the river into Tanzania, very few people take road north into Tanzania direclty. So as we venture north, the places to visit are becoming few and far between. This is making it even challenging to find accommodation of any form, let alone campsites. Our next point of interest is the Island of Mozambique. We have heard it is a must see, not sure why as lonely planet guide is very thin on anything up north.
The only thing is, the distance from Zalala to Island of Mozambique is almost 800 km too long a stretch for us. We will have to over night somewhere. That somewhere is a problem since, our GPS is not giving us any options at all. Perhaps we will finally have to bush camp. We choose Alto Molicue as our final estimation for the day. That should be a good 400 km trip. Within our limits for the day. So quick packing up in Zalala and then back to Quelimane for some food, fuel and water. The road into town is busy but nothing like the night before. In town we eventually find a place that serves coffee and not beer for breakfast, and are pleasantly surprised. A real coffee shop, with proper cappuccinos and a selection of pastries. Wow! Totally unexpected. With stomachs full, we leave eventually leave town. 70 or so km out of town, my bike, The Bitch, reaches another mile stone in it's illustrious carrier. It hist 160 000 km. That is 100 000 miles. Never thought she would last thing long when I bought her 8 1/2 years ago.
Progress was good until about 10 km out of Mocuba, the road just vanished! Yes, vanished. I have never done a road where it has been neglected soo badly that it just disintegrates. To make maters worse, there is loads of dust and big trucks to contend with. It is not fun. At times overtaking trucks, one can see nothing with the big plumes of dust been shot up. This bad road lasts for about 60 km.
In Alto Molocue, we find there is no accommodation to speak of, so decide to push on through to Nampula. It is a further 200 km, and because of the lateness of the hour, it will have to be done with a little speed. Speed in our case being 100 km an hour. We arrive in Nampula at 1700, just in time for sunset, and decide to settle for a hotel for the evening. First thus far on the trip, and how happy we are. 
In total, we have done 600 km for the day. Way more than we where expecting to do.