Day 26, 2011/05/27 Dar el Salam

Day 26, 2011/05/27 Dar el Salam

After taking pads off, we soon discover that, there ain't any pad left on my pads, and after a coupleofquick calls to local expatriates, we discover that spare for any non chinese bikes are basically impossible to come by. However, that does deter us, and we head with our Tuk Tuk driver, Adam to town to see what we can do about solving our dilemma. We soon find that my pads are impossible to find however, we find a place that will be willing to rebound new material onto the pads for me. Having not too many options available to me,short of getting them DHLed in from SA,I say to the guy, go for it!
Adam, who has some things to do for the lodge, then takes us with him to the CBD.wow, what inexperience. Firstly, Adam's driving through traffic. He could get that Tuk Tuk into gaps that I thought were impossible. Hewould mount pavements at will, to take short cuts and to avoid traffic. There appeared to be no real rules to the road what so ever, a totals free for all. How we managed to survive peak the day before, is still a Mistry to me! 
Adam final takes us to some very dodge places, where he says we must make sure ww do not flash anything of value, and keep our valuables close to us. Hell, and I thought Johannesburg was gangster's paradise! The sights, sounds, and smells are something out of this world. I think they should change Salam to Slum! The rotten stench in places is enough to make one hurl. And whist surprised me was that,in amongst all that dirt and garbage, people are running stalls selling food and all sorts of things. Dar is definitely a place worth visiting, it makes one amazed at the fact that through all this nightmare, garbage and confusion, things works and people some how manage to churn out a living. Adam also takes us through some up market suburbs in the north. Once again, one could immediately feel one was driving through parts of Sandton or Brayston in Johannesburg. Once again, the contrast  between the haves, and the have nots. This world is filled with them! Even here is a city like Dar. 
Adam finally shows us some local art gallerias. The art work is nothing but amazing,and the prices dirt cheap. Pity I am on a bike else, I am sure I would have invested in some of them. 
Sinally back to the campsite and work on that bike of mine. It would appear that the bonding worked and with a little hard work, we are finally able to get the pads on the bikes. What is only missing is a good bleeding of the breaks and all should be 100s. But,I decide to leave that for tomrrow. 
 

Day 26, 2011/05/27

Day 25, 2011/05/26 Kilwa to Dar el Salam

Day 25, 2011/05/26 Kilwa to Dar el Salam

After having one of the worst breakfasts thus far on the trip, we set off in the poring rain. Unlike any of the previous rains we have encountered thus far,this appears to be here to stay. We do 80 km in torrential rain and are socked! Even the boots are filled with water, after it has run down my leg into my boot. 
We now hit the " bad stretch " that the hotel owner had warned us about. He said it was 60 km of really bad road, and with the rain it was! It was nothing like anything I had experienced before. The road was so water logged, the mud had become like sludge, and what I was unaware of was what it was doing to my brakes. After an hour, we had only managed to do 10 km of the 60 km. This was turning into a nightmare! About 12 km in, we came across erden, the cyclist from the day before. He was pushing his bike with its trailer. He was to nerves he would fall. He said to us, do not worry, only another 45 km of this. What a nightmare! What we were not aware of was that, 3 km further down we would encounter parts of semi completed road. This was mostly hard gravel, with some big obstacles in it, to prevent us from using it. Normally these obstacles were in the form of tree logs, which were easy to circumnavigate around. Howeever, the 15 km had done there damage, my almost new break pads were finished. Yes,the 15 km had destroyed them totally! The fact that we still had over 200 km to go to Dar El Salam, was neither here or there. Welcome to Africa! 
Eventually,after 60 km of by far the worst road I had ever done, it eventually became tar. I now know why people kiss the Tarmac in all those books one reads of overland trips. 
 Running late and still have almost 200 km to go, so time to sitand get one's breath back will have to wait. Just 10 km later we enter a bustling town. There are numerous cars, buses and trucks parked. This is repair city. There are all sorts of shops catering to therepairof vehicles. Not surprising after that road. There are little shacks with welders and and angle grinders going full tilt. In amounts all this, are people selling all sorts of food stuff. David and i, decide to stop for a corn on the cob. Soon we get confronted with all other sorts of food, including some form of fudge and peanut brittle, Tanzanian style. In amongst all the confusion, we also find a lady pan frying cassava, a for of potato root. We both decide to have a try. Turns out to be actually lovely and order seconds, and thirds. 
Tummies fool, it is time  to hit the road, still a long way to go. 
At about 430 pm, in peak traffic we finally hit the outskirts of Dar. Not having any breaks makes what is a nightmare into an absolute nightmare from hell! 
I could not break since, my pads were metal on metal, and every time I used my breaks, I was potentially damaging my break disks. So slowing down was using ALL my gears at my disposal, and then, to make a final stop, I would stall the engine and bring the bike to a stop by releasing my clutch while the bike was still in gear. ingenious I thought at the time. It worked very well and I managed to only use breaks on a handful of occasions. What we were not aware at the time w that, Tracks 4 Africa on our GPS, had taken us the long way round. This meant we had to go through the centre of Dar rather than taking a simple detour. It makes mates worse, 3km from our destination, we were still required to do a ferry crossing. Wearing all our gear, and still boots soaking from all the water we had to go through, was not making us feel very comfy. David lead the way, and we just followed all the people onto the ferry. It was like organized chaos! People go in one entrance, abide and 3 wheelers another, and cars the final. Then the gates open, and it is a free for all getting any space on board. Then like sardines, it is only a 5 min boat trip and one is across on the other side. Then the chaos of leaving the boat follows. Each man, woman, bike, car for themselves! Thank god we are in front of the queue, so we manage to leave all the confusion behind us. 
3 km later, and we arrive at Makida Beach, and are welcomed in by Lucho, the owner. I am soo happy to have arrived in one piece, and the repairs to the bike will have wait until the morning. 

Day 25, 2011/05/26

Day 24, 2011/05/25 Mtwara to Kilwa

Day 24, 2011/05/25 Mtwara to Kilwa

After a day of getting our things all sorted,it was nice to be on the road again and  for once been able to start seeing more of Tanzania. The ride is pretty straight forward. The road almost all the way is lovely and tarred. It is surprising how little traffic we encounter, both in the form of pedestrians and vehicles. Thomas and Lily, the couple we met in Mozambique said that Tanzania is a buzz with peo
Le and they are everywhere. Funny,we experience quite the opposite. About 30 km before Kilwa, we come across a guy by the name of Edren. A Turkish guy who is attempting to circumnavigate the world using human effort alone. He is on a bicycle with a small trolley behind. He arrived in Mozambique after crossing the Indian Ocean in a canoe. Yes! A canoe. He holds the record for the most amount of solo days canoeing, in the region of 650. And David and I think we are breaking out of our comfort zones! 
We eventually arrive in Kilwa and decide to spoil our selves and decide to stay at the Ruins Lodge. We manage to negotiate what we though was a good rate, at the time, of 80 dollars for both of us.  As it turns out this was actually quiet expensive for what we got. But hey, you never know until you try. 

Day 24, 2011/05/25

Day 23, 2011/05/24 Mtwara

Day 23, 2011/05/24 Mtwara
After getting all our stuff horribly wet during the crossing into Tanzania, we decided to just sound an extra night in Mtwara. This gave us the opportunity to Dort out 3 rd party insurance and do some shopping.  We also decided to be adventures with our dinning and to go to a busy local food stall. Wow and we were not to be disappointed. It was by far the biggest highlight of our day. We each had a selection of local cuisine, including some amazing pineapple, mango and ginger flavored fruit juice. David even went as far as making sure that he ate with his hands, and that he only used his right hand!

Day 23, 2011/05/24

Day 22, 2011/05/23 Border crossing in Tanzania to Mtwara

Day 22, 2011/05/23  Border crossing in Tanzania to Mtwara

Day 22, 2011/05/23

The rain arrived midway through the night, which resulted in a sudden scramble to put the fly sheet on. The rain did not abate, so we get up in the rain, and needed to pack everything way in the rain. Not fun! Finally, after saying our goodbyes to the missionaries, we head for the border. It is only 20 odd km. How bad can it be! 
Well, the rain did help to make the beach sand easier to ride, but that is where it stopped. The bush was soo thick in places that, as you ride down the jeep track, you are being hit by branches and wet grass all the way. To just add the cherry on the top, we hit a section of thick clay. Lovely, black stuff! It is not long and on what appears to be a lovely straight section, my front tire just vanishes out from under me. Nothing like trying to pick a fully laden bike, in clay, when you are exhausted. 
Finally we arrive at the border. It may not have vehicles going through here,since the ferry no longer exists but, there are loads of people crossing. The corruption and the payments are clear and in the open . I have never seen this so blatant and out in the open. The fact that others can see it happening appears to be non concern to the guy on the take. 
Then off to the river. I arrive a little after David, and he has done all the negotiating for us. He has knocked it down to only 50 dollars for each bike, with additional 1000 Mets for loading and un loading of the bike. Wow, and we thought we were going to get fleest! 
We thought we would have the boat to ourselves but why waste all that space! And as for unpacking the bike, they instruct me to just leave everything on. The next second I know, they instruct me to move aside while they take my bike out from my hands and start to push it down a steep embankment towards the river. 
I am very nervous but the five guys actually do a good job of picking it up and making sure it gets put on the boat. It is bucketing with rain, and I am drenched from head to toe. Then it is the tern of David's bike. They manage to get it onto the boat with similar ease. Then it is off, with a boat full of about 25 passages and two bike to the shores of the Tanzanian side of the Rovuma river. The boat and all its cargo are pushed along by a small 25 hp motor. On the way, in the rain we spot hippos in the water. On approaching the other side we hit several sand banks and are forced to offload passengers onto another boat. However,this gives short rest bite, and eventually run aground. We are forced to climb into the water and wayed through it to the shore. We are told that the river has crocodiles, so every step is done with an element of nervousness. The boat eventually finds its way through the sand banks and to the shore. Then the bikes need to be offloaded. Again nervousness sets as concern of the bikes safety is a concern. However, it all goes according to plan,and they arrive on Tanzanian soil without any damage done to them. After a brief repacking it is off to the border post. Again things are slow, and the corruption is clear and blatant and for all to see. What we also find at the border post is a number of Somali and Ethiopian refugees. I have heard about them from a girlie Pemba. They apparently have WALKED all the way from Ethiopia/Somalia. Their aim is to reach a refugee camp in Nampula in Mozambique. Some also still want to reach South Africa. Wow, and we worried about riding that distance,and here are people who are walking all that way, with nothing but the clothing they are wearing. Eye opening. Formalities at the border eventually sorted,it is of to 10 degrees South,our accommodation for the evening, and the opportunity to get all our equipment to dry. 

Day 21, 2011/05/22 Pemba to Palma

Day 21, 2011/05/22 Pemba to Palma

Day 21, 2011/05/22

We decide to go see what Ibu island is all about. However, in order to get there we need to get to the island dhow at high tide, and since high tide is at 730 and we have 200 km to cove to get there, we are up at 430 am. Yes, it is till dark at that time.
We take locals advice, and avoid the costal road. Apparently, it is still too wet to travel. So a long back tracks required. At Sunate, we turn north and head for Macomoia. A really lovely single lane road. Only used by locals and their bicycles. Really rural here. So rural that, when the kids see you on your bike, they run away because they have never scene bikes like ours before. 
Finally, after about 80 km, we turn off on the road to Ibu island. The dirt road  quickly deteriorates and we are having to avoid big potholes and patches of thick sand. 10 km into the 70 km stretch, David and reassess the situation. It is already 715am, and the chances af making the dhow are slim. Also this road is tiring and will take loads out of the bikes. A quick and easy decision is to change our plan and to head to Palma, and the border post instead. 
So back to the 243, and north to Macomia. The road is stunning but shortly after Macomia, we hit a patch if road under construction. The alternative route involves some thick sand patches so, is nerve raking. Just as the construction ends, we hit a patch of really badly maintained road. The potholes and dongas are a nightmare, and this continues for about 80 km. What a nightmare, I am surprised the bike did not sure any damage in all of that because, some of those huge potholes were not seen in time and, hit at speed. In addition, I see for the first time what we have been hearing all along, how Chinese have imported their own trucks, with their own truck drivers to transport the tree logs. Initially I was dubious about this but, when We came across a convoy of left hand drive, Chinese made trucks, with orientals behind the wheel transporting tree logs. So it is true, the Chinese are exploiting this country for its natural resources at a rapid rate, resulting in mass deforestation of the country! 
Anyway,  eventually hit the 246 to Mocimboa du Praia. Lovely stretch of road and we can average 80/90km/hr.  In Mocimboa, we meet a lovely German couple Thomas and Lily.  They had just been up to the Rovuma river for the day and gave us really valuable information of what to expect. 
A quick assessment of the situation, and we decide to see how far. Can make it to the border. The road to Palma is stunning dirt road, and I have to really hold myself back from going above 100km/hr. In Palma, we decide to head for the border. It is a really back road with loads of thick beach sand. I initially do well however, it is not long before i start to take a cow
Le of tumbles. It is on the second one that I break my right rear view mirror.  Oh boy, not nice, but at least still have the other one. 
Eventually at 5 pm, we reach a small town about halfway to border posts and decide to bush camp for the night. It is not long when we are approached by some South African missionaries, Andre and Annamarie, who invite us to camp near them. What luck! 
We finally get to use our gas stoves we have been dragging along all this way, and two minute noodles are finally enjoyed for dinner.

Day 20, 2011/05/21 Pemba

Day 20, 2011/05/21 Pemba 

A day spent just chilling and recharging our batteries. After my late night the evening before,it is precisely what the doctor ordered. 
Most exciting thing we did was a visit to town for fuel and banking, and watching of the Sharks loosing to the Bulls in rugby.

Day 20, 2011/05/21

Day 19,2011/05/20 Ilha de Mozambique to Pemba

Day 19, 2011/05/20  Ilha de Mozambique to Pemba

Since we have moved so far east now, the sun rises really early. It is up by 5 am. So hence, so are we. We have about 400 km to Pemba.the last really big city in northern Mozambique. Day is pretty uneventful. On crossing the Lurio river, thing s start to feel like real Africa. The towns, where previously there were atleast shops etc, are now just mud huts with grass roofs. Also, what is very apparent, is the fact that most people are Muslim. Which is very apparent to me, coming from a very christian dominated society. 
Near Sunate, I have a very interesting experience. After buying cokes from a street seller with a small cooler box, and some local bananas from a local vender, and enjoying them in the shelter of a tree, it is time to leave. I searched for a bin to throw the cans away. The locals instructed me to dispose of them onto the side of the road. I couldn't believe what I was being instructed to do. After a number of attempts to show them the errors in their ways, I had no other opt but to turf them into the veld. Was very against my better judgement but then, I was instructed to do so. Africa i guess!
We find lovely accommodation in a place called Russell's Place. We end up taking a chalet. The place is really stunning, and it turns out to be frequented by loads of ex-patriots and loads of South Africans. 
After dinner, we meet a guy by the name of Joe. He is actively involved in the conservation of the desert elephant in Namibia. A really interesting guy. I eventually gave him the nickname Idiana Jones. And boy did he live up to it. He chain smoked, drank beer like I had never scene before. 
Joe gave us loads of very valuable tips on what to expect, where to stay, etc.
He also mentioned this amazing island we should visit called Ibu, which we eventually decide we will.
Later that evening, I together with Joe, and his friend Rob, get convinced to go out clubbing with a whole bunch on South African expatriates to a night club in Pemba called Brazuca. Place turns out to be a small room in a restaurant/bar. Very up market, although,they have no problem with me the white man/tourist arriving in slops, shorts, and a T-shirt.  The music is typical dance music, but since I have not heard any music in three weeks, I really enjoy myself and dance up a storm. 
At 2 am, Joe convinces all of us to head off to the beach for a couple of beers. Like we had not drunk enough. It is not long and we all decide to go for a swim in the ocean, you guessed it, naked! And wow, was it stunning! Luckily for us, we manage to all get dressed before the police arrive else, they would have most certainly have had us arrested. 
Finally get home, and to bed at 3 am. Thank god, we not ridding tomorrow! 

Day 19, 2011/05/20

Day 18, 2011/05/19 Ilha de Mozambique

Day 18, 2011/05/19

Day 18, 2001/05/19 Ilha de Mozambique

After such amazing snorkeling in Vilankulos, we decided to see what itwas like in Ilha de Mozambique. Well, not great is the answer. Our guide Juinita, arranged a Doha to take us across the mainland. At least these guys could sail the dhow unlike the guys in Vilankulos. However, due to the tide being soo low, we had to walk far distances across coral reefs to pools to see fish. I decided to to finally temp fate and try out my camera under water. And boy it works! So hence the 100s of pics!
After a little too much sun, we returned for a light lunch and then a visit to the Museum. Also a disappointment. Well perhaps an introduction to Museums Mozambique-an style. Very run down and not well documented. Interesting none the less. What I did figure out was that the modern day dhow sails been used date back to technology that came across with the Portuegese in the 16th century. And boy, it has not progressed since then. 
Finally a visit to the fort on the island. One can only imagine what it must have been like to live in it. At least there appears to be loads of renovation work happening on the castle/fort. Something pleasing to see. 

Day 17, 2011/05/18 Nampula to Ihla de Mozimbue

Day 17, 2011/05/18

Day 17, 2011/05/18 Nampula to Ihla de Mozimbue

As a result of our long day yesterday, we have a short ride today. All of 200 km to Island of Mozambique. However, first we have to contend with the traffic of Nampula. Nampula, like Quelimane, is a bustling town. Really booming! There were loads of car dealerships, even a truck dealership. That been said, there were loads of 4x4 in town. That meant chaos! Just keeping one's wits and one hand on the break is all one needs to make it through the chaos. Once on the open road, it is smooth riding once again. Nice to be on the bike and heading to the unknown.
About 100 km out of town we come across the most spectacular catholic church.
Must have recently refurnished. We stop to take pictures, and once again, like in all places it is not long and the bikes have drawn a crowd. Some pictures later, and after the purchase of some cachew nuts we are on the road. 
It is no time, and we are in Island of Mozambique. Turns out to be one of the best kept secrets. No wonder it is a world heritage site. The history of this place is amazing. It dates back to before the 9th century. Very stop Muslim influence here. It has, besides been the capital of Mozambique Lorenzo Marques (Maputo), it has been a trading hub to the Saltans, Portueges, British and Dutch. It also has a checked past, been the main trading hub for slaves to Brazil and the east. 

Day 16, 2011/05/17 Praia de Zalala to Nampula

Day 16, 2011/05/17

Day 16, 2011/05/17 Praia de Zalala to Nampula

The lonely planet guide, refers to northern Mozambique as one of the last true frontiers. One can start understand why. Most people traveling through Africa will make it as far as Vilankulos in Mozambique and then they will head via Tete to either Zimbabwe or Malawi. With no proper bridges across the river into Tanzania, very few people take road north into Tanzania direclty. So as we venture north, the places to visit are becoming few and far between. This is making it even challenging to find accommodation of any form, let alone campsites. Our next point of interest is the Island of Mozambique. We have heard it is a must see, not sure why as lonely planet guide is very thin on anything up north.
The only thing is, the distance from Zalala to Island of Mozambique is almost 800 km too long a stretch for us. We will have to over night somewhere. That somewhere is a problem since, our GPS is not giving us any options at all. Perhaps we will finally have to bush camp. We choose Alto Molicue as our final estimation for the day. That should be a good 400 km trip. Within our limits for the day. So quick packing up in Zalala and then back to Quelimane for some food, fuel and water. The road into town is busy but nothing like the night before. In town we eventually find a place that serves coffee and not beer for breakfast, and are pleasantly surprised. A real coffee shop, with proper cappuccinos and a selection of pastries. Wow! Totally unexpected. With stomachs full, we leave eventually leave town. 70 or so km out of town, my bike, The Bitch, reaches another mile stone in it's illustrious carrier. It hist 160 000 km. That is 100 000 miles. Never thought she would last thing long when I bought her 8 1/2 years ago.
Progress was good until about 10 km out of Mocuba, the road just vanished! Yes, vanished. I have never done a road where it has been neglected soo badly that it just disintegrates. To make maters worse, there is loads of dust and big trucks to contend with. It is not fun. At times overtaking trucks, one can see nothing with the big plumes of dust been shot up. This bad road lasts for about 60 km.
In Alto Molocue, we find there is no accommodation to speak of, so decide to push on through to Nampula. It is a further 200 km, and because of the lateness of the hour, it will have to be done with a little speed. Speed in our case being 100 km an hour. We arrive in Nampula at 1700, just in time for sunset, and decide to settle for a hotel for the evening. First thus far on the trip, and how happy we are. 
In total, we have done 600 km for the day. Way more than we where expecting to do. 

Day 15, 2011/05/16 Gorongosa to Praia de Zalala

Day 15, 2011/05/16

Day 15, 2011/05/16 Gorongosa to Praia de Zalala

We up early. We know it is going to be a long day in the saddle and need to get going early. We have s lovely cup of coffee with the van Zyl's, Piet and Rina. Then  it is off. We do good speed and arrive in Caia at about lunch time. There we cross the mighty Zambise. And mighty it is. We can see the old ferry which use to carry people across but now, it has been replaced by a new bridge. Yes, all of 2,3 km in length. The lovely planet guide says that, the river is over 8 km wide in places. One can only imagine how huge that must be. David and I both agree that, this is most certainly an accomplishment. One always thinks of Zambise as a big river in Africa, and here we are, crossing it. We still have some riding to do since, we not sure where we are going to be sleeping.as we have been going further north, accommodation is becoming more and more scares. As for camping sights,they are almost non existent. We finally decide to push on to and Quelimane and then Zalala beach. It is getting late when we eventually start driving into Quelimane, and boy we are not expecting what we get. This is some bustling port town, and everyone appears to be heading home. There are pedestrians,bicycles, motorbikes and big 4x4s everywhere. Now I know what it must feel like to ride/drive in a place like Cairo. It is extremely stressful! The bikes do what they want, the cars, think the rule the roost and here is David and trying to find a campsite. We eventuallyfind we have  that we have come too far into town and need to go to Zalala on another road. So all the way back out of town, again with all those people. 40km later,on a very potholed road, we eventually arrive in Zalala. Turns out, we are the only people in the campsite, which isnoproblem for David and I.

Day 14, 2011/05/15 Inhassoro to Gorongosa

Day 14, 2011/05/15

Day 14, 2011/05/15 Inhassoro to Gorongosa

Up bright and early. For tho who know me, that is most certainly against my religion. 530am before the sun is even up! We have a long day in the saddle, and need to make an early start. After a visit to the back, and a quick top-up of fuel we are on our way. The road initially is beyond bad. There are some hectic pot holes, and as for the trucks! We witness our first awful encounter with trucks. A truck, which is overtaking a car coming our way all of a sudden discovers he is running out of road because we are fast approaching. No problem, he simply just forces the car off the road and into bush! Well I guess it could have been worse, he could have kept his line and forced us off the road! 
We end up doing 420 odd km and end up camping again. After not been permitted to enter the Gorongosa National Park because, we are on motorcycles, we are forced to seek other accommodation. Just about 5 km from the main gate, we find another campsite. Really lovely place. It cannot run as a proper campsite since, the owners do not have the necessary paperwork in place yet. So, the owner says, we can stay and then just offer him a donation instead. Real shame that this guy can not run this as a proper campsite because it is really lovely.
Just as I thought I had finished journalling for the day, we went for dinner at the farm house of the owner. And wow, what a experience! If you ever want to know what a modern version of the voortrekers is, then you need to come visit the Van Zyl's. They have been in Mozambique since 2001. They lived in tents for about two years , then started developing their house. All made from what the environment. Can supply, so it is  real reed hut. There are 4 kids, oldest is 20, and the youngest is 14. All home schooled. What a setup, well worth a visit. And as for the meal, well wow! Most amazing chops i have had in years! 

Day 13, 2011/05/14 Vilankulos to Inhassoro

Day 13, 2011/05/14

Day 13, 2011/05/14, Vilankulos to Inhassoro

What a chilled day. All of 80 km to Inhassoro. We there by 10. The most amazing campsite thus far. It is on the beach. Lovely cut lawns and stunning ablution facilities. Not to mention a lovely pool. It's name, Goody Villas. No!, i have not spelt that wrong.  Some quick maintenance on the bike, like chain and hooter and then off for long walk on beach. Very out of the way place here. All properties along the beach front are holiday homes hence, empty this time of year. After walk, time to catch up on some reading and a good afternoon snooze because,tomorrow is going to be a long ride. Our real first long hall into the unknown.  

Day 12, 2011/05/13 Vilankulos

Day 12, 2011/05/13

Day 12, 2011/05/13, Vilankulos

We did not get round to updating our blog the previous day so, decide to spend another day in Vilankulos. The day starts with a visit to town. It is not 9 am and aim already melting! Do not know how people cope in summer here? Anyway,the town is a lot bigger than we expect. We get to visit the main market, which contains a fish market to. Most of the fish on sale, is dry and salted. It reminds me of the Med Fisheries in Johannesburg and their Cod fish. I am sure my mother would have loved it! Then off to the other backpackers to use the Internet. The blogger website is down and it turns out to be a very frustrating day. We stayed behind mainly to update the blog and Nada! Nothing! 
So I then opt for the pool ANC a couple Lauretina Stouts. I am getting use to drinking beer. It must be the heat. We bed up doing dinner st the other backpackers and I have the most amazing chicken ever!
Tirrek, the manager is really a stunning guy. He in 2007, did a trip through Africa to London in a beach buggy. Took him 18 months. Part of a charity raiser called Bear.

Day 11, 2011/05/12 Vilankulos

Day 11, 2011/05/12

Day 11, 2011/05/12

We have been told that some of the best places to go snorkeling in Mozambique is here in Vilankulos. So we have arranged a boat trip on a Dhow to an island for the day. We are accompanied by a bunch of poms. They are here for a cow
Ke of days R&R after doing some work in Lusaka. They are all med students finishing up their practicals. We also have an American girl on board. She has been in Cape town for the last couple of months doing research at UCT. She has just travelled from Livingston in Zambia, via Malawi to Mozambique, all on plublic transport. And yes, alone!
For many South Africans, this would be seen as a crazy thing to do. She sags people were extremely kind and accommodating and, she never felt threatened. Perhaps a lessons to be learnt in all of this for us South Africans!
Anyway, we arrive on the island and try out the snorkeling. It is not good at all. The guide advises that, it will be better in the afternoon and that we should rather take the 90 min walk around the island. I decide it's a good idea and set off with David and the American girl Linzie. Needless to say it is much longer than we where initially told and thank god David and I have the sense to bring water with us. 2 and 1/2 hours later we return with a a lovely sunburn to match. It is lunch time by then and we arrive to a spread of note! Crab, calamari and barracuda, together with lovely salad and fresh bread. Wow! And to think this was all prepared in this broken-down old boat called a Dhow. Even the braying of the fish is done in the boat. The boat has a fire box, which contains rocks and beach sand. The famous Mozambiquen coals are used and hey, you have all you need to cook.
We all eat like pigs, to the point that no one is keen to even venture out and try the snorkeling. Eventually we all force each other and try it. This time we go out to the other side of the reef, the exposed side. The current is going out so one just has to float and the rest is done for you by the current. No say it was amazing was an under statement! I have never seen soo many different fish in any dice thus far in Southern Africa. It was just amazing. 
We eventually over run purr time in the water and the Dhow is forced to pick us up from the water as it heads for home. 
The trip home is long and slow. The sailors decide to hoist the sail for the trip home. Boy, sailing on those Dhows is more like magic than anything else. The sail is made from what ever they can find. The fact that it has big holes in it, does not appear to make a difference. Anyway, needless to say, thank god for the 15 HP motor else,we would never had made it back! And as we almost got home, guess what ? Yeah, we run out of petrol! And eventually are forced just to drift to shore. This is Africa man! At least we got home is their attitude.

Day 10, 2011/05/11 Tofo to Vilankulos

Day 10, 2011/05/11

Day 10, 2011/05/11

It is time for us to get out of this comfort zone we have gotten ourselves into in Tofo and get on those bikes of ours and start moving north. We have heard so much of Valakulos, that we decide that is a perfect spot for our next point of call. 
It is only 350 km there however, the last coup,e of rides we have done, we have not been averaging more than 100 km a day. So this ia going to be a shock to the system. The trip will be back to Inhambane, then via Maxixe and thenon the EN1 all the way to Valakulos. 
It is not until we come across a sign designating the tropic of capricorn that David and I made aware that we have been on the road for more than 10 days now and. Have not really move very far north. This brings back the realization of still how far we have to go.
Valakulos beach is even more beautiful then the lonely planet guide has made it out to be. The most beautiful turquoise colour that appears to go on for ever! 
We find a lovely, vibey backpackers on the beach called Baobab and decide this ia perfect. We have most certainly taking a liking to backpackers. They just have amazing atmospheres and unlike most of the campsites, are actually busy.
David reckons, we both like the backpackers soo much because we both are actually like two kids who have never quite grown up. 

Day 9, 2011/05/10 Tofo

Day 9, 2011/05/10

Day 9, 2011/05/10

We had such a stunning time in Tofo the previous day, David and I decide that we need to stay another day and just chill. My rubber arm is easily twisted! Like it needed any! 
Since nothing is planned for the day, I decide that I should at least attempt some washing. That T-shirt i have been wearing for a week now, is starting to get a life of is's own. I always thought the hight of a northern suburbs boys level of domestication was learning to operate the washing machine. Well, I was about to reach another, washing clothing by hand. Hell, can not be too difficult, and is it not. If coca cola is the soft drink of africa then, Omo must be it's washing powder. It is everywhere! Needless to say, half an hour later all is washed and the bike seconds as a portable washing line. 
David and I are then off to find internet access. We have not had any thus far on the trip. Everyone at home is bleating that they want to see pics.  ( i think people have doubts we are actually not perhaps hiding out somewhere in south africa, and actually bullshitting that we are actually finally doing this! ) So we oblige.
We find a bar with what appears to be the only Internet access in Tofo. Two hours later, and at a nice price , we have both setup each a blog, and the pictures, with their geotagging data is loaded. And it works like a charm!
Hell this has been way too much work for one day so, we both head for the beach for a swim and some R&R!
Dinner is at Dino's, the bar come Internet cafe. It is lovely place on the beach and we both end up have barracuda. Another first for me.
My diving friends from the previous day, Cstherine, Daniel and Kevin invite us over to where they staying for drinks. They pick us up since, they are about 5 km out from town on a lovely beach sand filled road, and David and I are not keen to take the chance in the dark on that stuff. Yeah, as you have gathered, us and beach sand are not friends. Two heavy bikes, and each having had tumbles on it, have put us off the desire to go near the stuff.
Drinks turns out to be lovely, Daniel's brother's place turns out to be a new resort under development. A 8 year project in the making. Some of the chalets have Ben completed and others are in the process. There is no electricity, so the evening is spent having drinks to paraffin lamps. The company, the setting are stunning and Dvid and I only get back to our tents at 11 pm. Considering that we have been hitting the mattresses at the latest, 7 pm since we have started our trip,this turns out to have been a really late one.

 


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Day 8, 2011/05/09 Tofo

Day 8, 2011/05/09
The thing with being in bed early, you up at the crack of dawn. I am off for a elk on the beach, where I find dive shop and beach cafe. Real cappuccinos!!!! Shit did not expect those so far in to Mozambique. I proceed tp play catchup and have two. 
I decide then to spend the day diving. Since I have not dived in years, I am forced to do a refresher. Initially not pleased at the thought, it turns out to be a blessing. It is amazing the things one forgets when one does not do something for a while. 
During the refresher, I meet Catherine. She is a doctor from Cape Town, here to do some diving with friends from the UK.  
Refresher course done and dusted, we are off todo an afternoon dive at 1pm. 
Dive turns out to be great, and the fact that I did not hirl, even better!
Only thing is that, after some confusion between me and the dive master, I surface alone which results in me being kaked out! Ooooooops sorry!
Rondevou with David after the dive to find out that he also had a stunning relaxed day. We both decide that sincere having such good time here, it is worth staying another day.  
Catherine and her friends invite us to join them at Tofo Tofo restaurant, for dinner. Turns out to be a lovely evening with too many beers been drunk. 
I do not even drink beer but, the local stuff is cheep and it goes down sooooo well! This trip may turn me into a beer drinker after all! 




Day 8 Pics

Day 7, 2011/05/08 Guinjata to Tofo

Day 7, 2011/05/08 
Up early, well for me that is. 6 am is very early for me! We are off deep sea fishing, and we are told the fish bite early. What do I know! Anyway, Louis is wearing a T -shirt that reads, "there is a thin line between fishing and sitting around looking stupid". I must admit, i have tried fishing on several occasions and, never caught a thing. Well let's hope today is different. I have always had the idea that game or deep sea fishing is the ultimate form of fishing. 
Well five hours later, and sporting a real Boer tan, we get off the boat with NOTHING! Yeah, not even a bite! Well I guess the upside of the whole experience was that neither David nor myself got sea sick. And, we learnt that deep sea fishing, is much like other forms except, you on a moving boat. Perhaps if we had caught something then, it would have been a different experience. Perhaps us bikers prefer more instant gratification, when we open the throttle, we get instant gratification, which fishing just does not give us.
All in all, many thanks to Piet and Louis for taking us out with them. Definitely something different. After a lovely brunch, and a exchange of email addresses, we are off. Since it is late and, we are tired from been on the boat all morning, we opt for a short ride to Tofo. We eventually find a backpackers/campsite called Fatimas Nest. Ithas loads of backpackers so David and I decide to spend the following day just chilling in Tofo.


Day 7 Pics

Day 6, 2011/05/07 Ponta Zavora to Guinjata

Day 6, 2011/05/07
Not far to travel today. We are off to guinjata to meet dome fellow South Africans we met in Xai-xai yesterday. They have booked for eight and some of their friends have had to go back home. In terms of line on sight, the gps says we have only to travel 50 odd km. However, to make it a little more scenic, we have decided to go first to Inhambane, then Tofo, before heading for Guinjata. 
Just before the turnoff to Inhambane, there is a sign that reads, "vetkoek en mince". Hell, weever you go in Mozambique, there appears to be South Africans and, they appear to have brought their cuisine with them!
Inhambane, is a lovely little town. Got a lovely med feel to it. Lovely Lomb roads with trees and shops along it. Also, numerous things have been newly painted, a clear sign of things are on the up in Mozambique. 
Then off to Tofo. A real tourist hot spot. The first real one I have scene thus far. A number of young people, most probably backpackers. We stop to enjoy a cocconuton the beach. A young girl of about 14, yielding a big panga proceeds to clean the coconut for us. And what she charged, was a mere 7 Meticas! Yes, something like a R1.50.
Then off to meet those South Africans we met in Xai-xai. Little did we know what we were in for. The first 16 km was red sand road, with the odd thick patch, but the last 3 were a nightmare! Thick, thick beach sand! 500m in ANC David takes a tumble. Nothing really however, enough to shake one's confidence. And poor David, battled from there on in. I found it tough but not as bad as David. Needless to say, we arrived exhausted. Hannelie and Louis Strydom, together with Piet and Rene Rappard were amazing hosts. After a lovely braai and, watching the Stormers go down to the Crusaders, it is off to bed. But, not before we get convinced to go out game/deep sea fishing with them in the morning. I am always keen on trying something new so am more than keen. 
 




Day 6 Pics

Day 5, 2011/05/06. Praia de Xai Xai to Ponta Zavora

Day 5, 2011/05/06
Had a sense of humor failure with the Mosquitos. These things just do not know when  enough is enough. They stung me through my socks and my t-shirt. Eventually we just happy to get going so that we can get away from them. It is about 200 km north on the. EN1 to Zordova. All tar except for the last 16 km. But first, we need some food and fuel,so off to the Engen. While there David spots something wrong with my master link,so quick refitting of it is required. At same time, we meet fellow South Africans, who are on there way to Guinjata. They say they have booked accommodation for 8 but, some of their fellow travellers have decided to return home and hence, wether we want accommodation for Saturday with them? I was not sure if it was the thought of not having to pitch a tent or, the fact they said hey watching the stormers game that made me take them up on their offer.
The first part of the day was relatively un eventful however, after our lunch stop, the scenery started to become spectacular. Cocconut and palm trees are now just everywhere and the most amazing views of islands with turques waters. 
Eventually, we get to our overnight stop. A lovely campsite on the beach, and after a lovely swim, shower and dinner it is off to bed early.
 




Day 5 Pics

Day 4, 2011/05/05 Praia de Bilene to Praia de Xai Xai

Day 4, 2011/05/05
Today is when our trip truly starts. To night will be our first night of camping.
I am awake at first light, and have a lovely bath, shit and shave. Not sure when I will be able to experience that amount of luxury again.
We have decided to take the dirt road to Xai-Xai. It should have thick sand in places. Something David and I want to try out with our bikes fully packed. And boy were we not to be disappointed. All of 6 km into it and, David and I decide that we need to take arrest stop, with the excuse of needing to take pics! We were both exhausted! Knowing we had only another 35 odd km of this to go. Well, in the end and, after numerous 'photo taking' opportunities, we managed to do the 70 km  in just over 4 hours. Needless to say, I now know why people kiss the tar road in this adventure bike trips! Our over night camping was on Xai-Xai beach. Old but nice and clean campsite. We were the only people there for the night which makes me wonder how these places survive? Anyway, we were both so tired that we were in bed by 6pm. Nothing like sone sand roads to sap the energy out of you.

Day 4 Pics

Day 3, 2011/05/04 Praia de Bilene

Day 3, 2001/05/04 

Spending the day in Bilene just chilling. Had long breakfast with David at the Parai do Sol. Brought back memories of my first trip to Moz, with all the guys from eBucks.
Spent some time trying to get hooter working. Clearly does not like dust as much a the bike does.
Beautiful scenery. Definetely have to come back here again with friends and family. Forgotten how stunning it is here. 
Planing to do dirt road to Xai-Xai tomorrow. The sand should be thick and, the real test of our abilities with regards to riding a heavy ladened bike through some real thick beach sand.




Day 3 Pics

Day 2, 2011/05/03 Kruger Park to Bilene

Day 2, 2011/05/03
Wake up to a stunning sunrise over the river and to the sound of lion. Yeah. Initially thought I was hearing things but then later it became clear it was the grunting of a lion. Stunning bath and then off to pack bike and stash some dollars under my seat. Just incase, one never knows what may happen.
We say our goodbyes to Warren, who is off back to Johannesburg while, we are off to the border. My butterflies, in my stomach, are having a field day. I jokingly say to David. We can always stay here. Fuck the trip, we can download images off the net and with some Photo Shop make as if we were there!
Thank god David was not a taker, and we head off to Sasol Garage for a full tank, some breakfast and a quick exchange of Rands into Meticas. 
Then off to boarder post. Wow, quick when it is not peak season. Managed to get Moz sim cards and we are now officially on our way.
We decide to take a shorter more scenic view to Bilene. Rather than take the EN3 to Maputo and then north on the EN1 to Bilene, we turn off and head for Moamba. After some about 100km of dirt, we eventually get to a lovely tard road near Xinavane. We soon find out why there is this amazing tarred road in the middle of nowhere. For the next 22 km we will see nothing but sugarcane plantations. Yes, all run by Tongat-Hulet most amazing site to see. In Xinavane, we come across a sugar processing plant. The smell of syrup fills the air. What is amazing to see, is the strides that Mozambique have taken since my first visit here. This town looked like any in South Africa. The machinery on display was almost all brand spanking new. Amazing what foreign investment can do. 
Anyway, we still had 60 km to Bilene to go. After joining the EN1, we decide to stop off for a good old ice cold coke in Magul. The place is  an old warn down shop, with a speaker outside playing portuegese Salsa music. Just wanted to start dancing. Two cokes cost us M30, that is R3 each. Wow, cheaper than in Johannesburg. 
We decide to push onto Bilene and decide not to pickup any supplies in Macia. What a costly decision that will turn out to be. 
David's chalet turns out to be amazing. Two bed room, all in white, with the most amazing view of the lagoon in Bilene. Also, a short stroll from the beach which, has the most amazing white beaches. 
We decide to walk along the beach to town and see if can do dinner in one of the restaurants. It turns out that, the walk was MUCHlonger than we thought and that, the nice restaurant in town was closed on Tuesdays. To add salt to the wound, we had the pleasure of finding out that the marketing town had nothing really to offer in terms of groceries. So now hungry beggars could no longer be choosers and, we had to settle for tomatoes, cucumber, onions, tuna and some lovely porteuges rolls for dinner. Thank god, David brought salt with, and we had something to add to the ingredients. 
Also managed to discover the local Rum they sell here. Rio Tinto is it's name, and it weighs in at only 43% proof!
So needless to say what washed my dinner down with.
David managed to get his small radio working and picked up a number of AM stations. I was surprised to discover that, my cellphone's build in radio could not pick up any FM stations. I may need to find a small radio at some point along my trip.


Day 2 Pics

Day 1, 2011/05/02 Johannesburg to Marloth Park Kruger

Day 1, 2011/05/02

Up at the crack of dawn for me. 530am. Do not mow when last I was up this early, let alone up when it is still dark outside. BBC has breaking news of the death of Osama Bin Laden. Let's hope this event does not have any negative implications for my bike trip through Africa.
Left Northcliff Johannesburg in thick mist. Can not see any of Northern Johannesburg. Off to David's Home in Kyalami.
Arrival at 7am on those nose. David looks all ready. He goes through the things he has packed. Makes me thing I have under prepared for this trip. 
Myself, David and Warren finally hit the road at 8 am. We are off to Morloth Park next to the Kruger for our first night's stop over.
The weather is kak! Overcast and miserable. Not a good day for riding bike. It however, does not rain and we have a stunning ride. Arrive at about 3 pm, after stopping for some beers, worse and sweet potatoes for a braai. 
Never been to Morloth Park before. Have heard loads about it from Rainer who, has a place there. Now know what he has been going on about. 
We staying in a former lodge/B&B. Belongs to a friend of Warren's. Sleeps about 30people. We each have our own suite with double beds. Extremely luxury for the first night. Not sure that we are going have too many of these along the way!
Had stunning evening around the fire. 

Day 1 Pics