Day 81, 2011/07/21 Khartoum to desert near Atbara
Dave and Naomi, need to sort out their Syrian visa so, I am off to the internet cafe again today. With my blog almost up to date, I am left with nothing really to do but surf and catchup on some reading.
I return early to discover that both Dave and Naomi have managed to secure their Syrian visas. We decide there and then that, another night in Khartoum is no longer and option and that we should make an early start by leaving immediately for Moroe and Atbara. Needless to say, it is hot and the putting on the gear is not fun however,the thought of finally getting out of Khartoum is simply too overwhelming and none of can resist.
The north is heavy laden with trucks and buses so we do not make much head way before night overcomes us and we are forced to setup camp near the side of the road. We decide to stop very close to the road since, there is loads of very thick beach sand which would make my life a nightmare. While waiting for the sun to set, a pickup truck arrives with a number of armed military guys on it. They immediately confront us and want to know what our intentions are and, why we stopped here. The guns are at the ready, so it is a little nerve racking. With our broken Arabic, and their broken English, we eventually explain to them that we intend to bush camp one night and mean no harm to anyone. After consulting our passports, they are appear far more relieved and the mood changes drastically, to the point where they actually become apologetic for disturbing us. It is amazing what the correct attitude can get you in life, regardless of the situation.
Sunday, 31 July 2011
Day 80, 2011/07/20 Khartoum
Day 80, 2011/07/20 Khartoum
With all my paper work in order, I decide to find the Internet cafe and update my blog which I have not done since Nairobi. In addition, I also have to upload a number of pics. The Internet cafe also has air-conditioning, soot offers some relief from the heat. Needless to say that, I end up spending almost the entire day there.
With all my paper work in order, I decide to find the Internet cafe and update my blog which I have not done since Nairobi. In addition, I also have to upload a number of pics. The Internet cafe also has air-conditioning, soot offers some relief from the heat. Needless to say that, I end up spending almost the entire day there.
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| Day 80, 2011/07/20 |
Day 79, 2011/07/19 Khartoum
Day 79, 2011/07/19 Khartoum
After the previous days disappointment at the depart of Alien Affairs, we have decided to make sure we are there first thing. Also, Dave wants to go past the SA embassy and also have car checked out so, we decide to go by car instead. Nothing like air-conditioning after another kak night's sleep! It was even hotter than the previous evening and what made it even worse was the fact that there was absolutely no wind what so ever! It got so bad that I eventually ended up sleeping out in the open with my sleeping mat on some concrete slab somewhere. Daveand Naomi also did not sleep terribly well either and so we decide that we will have to rethink our sleeping arrangements for the evening. Anyway, before we can do that, we need to get to Alien Affairs. The process is actually relatively quick and easy, and by 1030 am we are done. Dave recalls some lovely coffee shop he read about in the lonely planet, so we end up going there for a late breakfast. The pastries turn out to be out of this world! All those Greek and middle eastern things with nuts and honey and filopastry. Once breakfast is done, it is off to the South African embassy. Dave needs one of those really questionable letters that state precisely what his passport does, ie that he is who it say it does and, that he is a South African! Yeah, he needs it for his Syrian visa. On arrival at the embassy,we soon discover that no one will be in today. Another case of what the fuck do these people actually do besides get paid lovely salaries at our tax payers expense? Anyway,nothing we can do but return tomorrow then. I am so comfortable in Dave and Naomi's car that, I proceed to sleep most of the time. It is just such a relief to have my body temp back at manageable levels that my mind just decides that it can now eventually just turn itself off, and I eventually manage to catch up on a couple of nights bad sleep.
On returning to the campsite, Dave proceeds to service his car, while I decide to run some necessary repairs to my bike. Dave has never serviced a car in his life before however, he does a very good job for a beginner. Trust me servicing a car/bike in 40 degree heat is not fun, but it ain't like we had any other options.
Naomi on the other hand has this brilliant idea of erecting a make shift sleeping area on the grass using a sheet of taupolin and our mozie nets. Been closer to the water and less sheltered, we hope it will offer a cooler nights rest.
After the previous days disappointment at the depart of Alien Affairs, we have decided to make sure we are there first thing. Also, Dave wants to go past the SA embassy and also have car checked out so, we decide to go by car instead. Nothing like air-conditioning after another kak night's sleep! It was even hotter than the previous evening and what made it even worse was the fact that there was absolutely no wind what so ever! It got so bad that I eventually ended up sleeping out in the open with my sleeping mat on some concrete slab somewhere. Daveand Naomi also did not sleep terribly well either and so we decide that we will have to rethink our sleeping arrangements for the evening. Anyway, before we can do that, we need to get to Alien Affairs. The process is actually relatively quick and easy, and by 1030 am we are done. Dave recalls some lovely coffee shop he read about in the lonely planet, so we end up going there for a late breakfast. The pastries turn out to be out of this world! All those Greek and middle eastern things with nuts and honey and filopastry. Once breakfast is done, it is off to the South African embassy. Dave needs one of those really questionable letters that state precisely what his passport does, ie that he is who it say it does and, that he is a South African! Yeah, he needs it for his Syrian visa. On arrival at the embassy,we soon discover that no one will be in today. Another case of what the fuck do these people actually do besides get paid lovely salaries at our tax payers expense? Anyway,nothing we can do but return tomorrow then. I am so comfortable in Dave and Naomi's car that, I proceed to sleep most of the time. It is just such a relief to have my body temp back at manageable levels that my mind just decides that it can now eventually just turn itself off, and I eventually manage to catch up on a couple of nights bad sleep.
On returning to the campsite, Dave proceeds to service his car, while I decide to run some necessary repairs to my bike. Dave has never serviced a car in his life before however, he does a very good job for a beginner. Trust me servicing a car/bike in 40 degree heat is not fun, but it ain't like we had any other options.
Naomi on the other hand has this brilliant idea of erecting a make shift sleeping area on the grass using a sheet of taupolin and our mozie nets. Been closer to the water and less sheltered, we hope it will offer a cooler nights rest.
Day 78, 2011/07/18 Khartoum
Day 78, 2011/07/18 Khartoum
I had to sleep with my fly sheet off my tent, just to make sure that I could get some air to circulate while sleeping. There was a lovely breeze halfway through the night which,did bring some relief from the heat however, it also managed to blow loads of sand into my tent. Lovely! I am not the best person on little sleep, and just throw in some heat, and It is nothing less than hell!
One of the requirements on visiting Sudan is that, after crossing the border you are required to register as an alien, yes an aline at the department of Alien Affairs in Khartoum. Always thought I was a little strange however, never thought of myself as an alien! The biggest problem with registering as an alien, is actually trying to find the department of alien affairs. It would appear that, the office has moved location several times over the course of the last couple of years so, we have a number of GPS coordinates of where it may be. It is now just a case of trying to find the correct one. After consulting a very reliable blog we decide to try find the place. We opt for trying to find it with the help of a taxi. After negotiating Khartoum traffic in an unairconditioned car, we eventually find the place.not bad for the first attempt. However, as luck would have it, we arrive too late to have it done today. Lovely! The office closes at 2 pm and it is now 3 pm! Does this not just sound like typical government departments for you. So we will gave to return tomorrow.
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| Day 78, 2011/07/18 |
I had to sleep with my fly sheet off my tent, just to make sure that I could get some air to circulate while sleeping. There was a lovely breeze halfway through the night which,did bring some relief from the heat however, it also managed to blow loads of sand into my tent. Lovely! I am not the best person on little sleep, and just throw in some heat, and It is nothing less than hell!
One of the requirements on visiting Sudan is that, after crossing the border you are required to register as an alien, yes an aline at the department of Alien Affairs in Khartoum. Always thought I was a little strange however, never thought of myself as an alien! The biggest problem with registering as an alien, is actually trying to find the department of alien affairs. It would appear that, the office has moved location several times over the course of the last couple of years so, we have a number of GPS coordinates of where it may be. It is now just a case of trying to find the correct one. After consulting a very reliable blog we decide to try find the place. We opt for trying to find it with the help of a taxi. After negotiating Khartoum traffic in an unairconditioned car, we eventually find the place.not bad for the first attempt. However, as luck would have it, we arrive too late to have it done today. Lovely! The office closes at 2 pm and it is now 3 pm! Does this not just sound like typical government departments for you. So we will gave to return tomorrow.
Day 77, 2011/07/17 Wad Medani to Khartoum
Day 77, 2011/07/17 Wad Medani to Khartoum
One lesson we most certainly learnt the previous day was that, the noon day sun is a killer so, it is best that we either travel during the earlyhoursofthe morning or, in the late afternoon. With that it mind we decide to make an early start. Up by 6 am and gone by 730am means that we are able to arrive in Khartoum by noon. Dave and Naomi decide to leave me at the one option we had for accommodation while they investigate the others. I find the air-conditioned room with the Internet so am more than willing to just sit and wait while they decide on which option is better. Not that their are really many to choose from, from a camping perspective in Khartoum! After chilling for about two hours, Naomi calls me to let me know that they hve decided to stay at the Blue Nile Sailing Club, a very common overlanders camping site, in the centre of Khartoum and, on the banks of the Blue Nile river. The only problem is that I am about 10 km away and need to get there in the blazing heat of the midday sun and, through Khrtoums traffic! Once again, it is not a pleasant experience, especially the last 2 km,through some bumper to bumper traffic, and through some busy intersections. However, finally i do arrive to a waiting Naomi with a lovely big bottle of water inhere hand.
The Blue Nile Sailing Club, is a rundown establishment, which is purely managed. It looks like a boat scrapyard rather than any sailing establishment. There are broken boats littering the car park, where the overlanders are forced to pitch their tents. As for the ablution facilities, I do not think they have been cleaned in ages! In brief, a real dump! But beggars can not be choosers I guess. I decide to pitch my tent next to Dave and Naomi's car, just to make things more practical. The heat of the afternoon was so hot and overwhelming that, we manage bearly to play a couple of card games. To tell you the truth, I have never been this hot in my entire life! We are talking of temperatures in excess of 45 degrees, IN THE SHADE! And with no option of air conditioning available, It is anything but pleasant. The down side to all of this is that, we are here for a couple of days at least, we have some administrative things to do, before we can head north to Egypt.
One lesson we most certainly learnt the previous day was that, the noon day sun is a killer so, it is best that we either travel during the earlyhoursofthe morning or, in the late afternoon. With that it mind we decide to make an early start. Up by 6 am and gone by 730am means that we are able to arrive in Khartoum by noon. Dave and Naomi decide to leave me at the one option we had for accommodation while they investigate the others. I find the air-conditioned room with the Internet so am more than willing to just sit and wait while they decide on which option is better. Not that their are really many to choose from, from a camping perspective in Khartoum! After chilling for about two hours, Naomi calls me to let me know that they hve decided to stay at the Blue Nile Sailing Club, a very common overlanders camping site, in the centre of Khartoum and, on the banks of the Blue Nile river. The only problem is that I am about 10 km away and need to get there in the blazing heat of the midday sun and, through Khrtoums traffic! Once again, it is not a pleasant experience, especially the last 2 km,through some bumper to bumper traffic, and through some busy intersections. However, finally i do arrive to a waiting Naomi with a lovely big bottle of water inhere hand.
The Blue Nile Sailing Club, is a rundown establishment, which is purely managed. It looks like a boat scrapyard rather than any sailing establishment. There are broken boats littering the car park, where the overlanders are forced to pitch their tents. As for the ablution facilities, I do not think they have been cleaned in ages! In brief, a real dump! But beggars can not be choosers I guess. I decide to pitch my tent next to Dave and Naomi's car, just to make things more practical. The heat of the afternoon was so hot and overwhelming that, we manage bearly to play a couple of card games. To tell you the truth, I have never been this hot in my entire life! We are talking of temperatures in excess of 45 degrees, IN THE SHADE! And with no option of air conditioning available, It is anything but pleasant. The down side to all of this is that, we are here for a couple of days at least, we have some administrative things to do, before we can head north to Egypt.
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| Day 77, 2011/07/17 |
Day 76, 2011/07/16 Metema to Wad Medani
Day 76, 2011/07/16 Metema to Wad Medani
Who would hVe expected it to rain in Sudan, after all everything is so dry. It did not only rain during the evening, it stormed, and so hard that I thought i would be blown away with my tent! I left my clothes and boots outside, on my bike, and was expediting the worst with regards to them being wet. However, with the nature of the dry weather in Sudan, it did not take them long to dry, and by the time we hit the road, almost everything, except my boots, are bone dry. The road to Gedaref, os approximately 100 km and lovely tar. By the time we get there, it is starting to get hot,so we decide to stop for some lunch. We find a local eating place near the main bus station, and enjoy some really amazing Sudanese cuisine. Then it is back on the bike towards Wad Medani. He'll, what a nightmare ride. The temperature got so hot that, together with all my biking gear, I thought I was going to die! I guess having a black helmet, in this heat, does not make things easier either. Just put it this was, riding at noon through Sudan was not a very bright idea. Eventually, we arrive it Wad Medani towards the late afternoon. The problem with Sudan is that,there is almost NO tourist infrastructure here so, finding a hotel is bad enough, let alone a campsite! We proceed to try find the hotels mentioned in our travel guide and those on our GPS which, would have been fine if I was not wearing all my biking gear and, it was not 45 degrees in the shade! So eventually, after asking a number of locals and, after driving around town, we find a hotel which is nothing more than a dump. The stinch in the rooms was just too overpowering and even thou they had aircon, the 100 pounds they wanted was a little too hefty. So,we decided to head out of town and see if we could simply bush camp in the desert. The only problem was that, the road now followed the blue Nile so, the chances of finding a solitary spot, with no people, was almost impossible. Eventually, we managed to spot a lovely patch of green grass next to a tree, behind what appeared to be a truckers stop/restaurant. We asked the owner if he minded if we pitch our tents on his patch of grass and he was more than willing,and would not want any payment for it.once again, a sign of how hospitable the Sudanese are as people. We pitched our tent right next to a deep well which, they use to pump water to irrigate their fields. It was interesting sight to see how the entire system worked, the kind of stuff you have heard about for years in books and seen on TV for which you finally seeing in real life. Tents pitched, and showers taken, we decide to support our hosts restaurant and coffee shop for dinner. We are once again treated to some lovely Sudanese food and hospitality, and we finish the night off smoking a shisha pipe.
Who would hVe expected it to rain in Sudan, after all everything is so dry. It did not only rain during the evening, it stormed, and so hard that I thought i would be blown away with my tent! I left my clothes and boots outside, on my bike, and was expediting the worst with regards to them being wet. However, with the nature of the dry weather in Sudan, it did not take them long to dry, and by the time we hit the road, almost everything, except my boots, are bone dry. The road to Gedaref, os approximately 100 km and lovely tar. By the time we get there, it is starting to get hot,so we decide to stop for some lunch. We find a local eating place near the main bus station, and enjoy some really amazing Sudanese cuisine. Then it is back on the bike towards Wad Medani. He'll, what a nightmare ride. The temperature got so hot that, together with all my biking gear, I thought I was going to die! I guess having a black helmet, in this heat, does not make things easier either. Just put it this was, riding at noon through Sudan was not a very bright idea. Eventually, we arrive it Wad Medani towards the late afternoon. The problem with Sudan is that,there is almost NO tourist infrastructure here so, finding a hotel is bad enough, let alone a campsite! We proceed to try find the hotels mentioned in our travel guide and those on our GPS which, would have been fine if I was not wearing all my biking gear and, it was not 45 degrees in the shade! So eventually, after asking a number of locals and, after driving around town, we find a hotel which is nothing more than a dump. The stinch in the rooms was just too overpowering and even thou they had aircon, the 100 pounds they wanted was a little too hefty. So,we decided to head out of town and see if we could simply bush camp in the desert. The only problem was that, the road now followed the blue Nile so, the chances of finding a solitary spot, with no people, was almost impossible. Eventually, we managed to spot a lovely patch of green grass next to a tree, behind what appeared to be a truckers stop/restaurant. We asked the owner if he minded if we pitch our tents on his patch of grass and he was more than willing,and would not want any payment for it.once again, a sign of how hospitable the Sudanese are as people. We pitched our tent right next to a deep well which, they use to pump water to irrigate their fields. It was interesting sight to see how the entire system worked, the kind of stuff you have heard about for years in books and seen on TV for which you finally seeing in real life. Tents pitched, and showers taken, we decide to support our hosts restaurant and coffee shop for dinner. We are once again treated to some lovely Sudanese food and hospitality, and we finish the night off smoking a shisha pipe.
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| Day 76, 2011/07/16 |
Day 75, 2011/07/15 Gorgona to Metema and Sudan
Day 75, 2011/07/15 Gorgona to Metema and Sudan
We have been told by both the Italian and the German couple that, Sudan is beyond hot. They said that, the day time temp is about 45 degrees in the shade, and at night,it drops to only 38. Not one for hot or humid weather, I am not looking forward to it. We make a relatively late start, and need to back track to Gondar before heading towards the border. The road to the border winds its way through some relatively pristine, un farmed lands towards the border at Metema. The altitude slowly drops from over 2000 m down to about 600 m. With the change in altitude, comes a corresponding change in climate. Cool wet weather, slowly gives way to hot dry weather. Not the kind of stuff you like when you have to wear loads of biking gear, and have to spend time running between offices at a border post! The Ethiopian side of the border post is quick and easy however theSudanese side talked for ever! The fact that,it is a Friday afternoon,is perhaps to explain for it. The people are all at Mosque, and we are forced to wait for different people at various stages of the process. Needless to say, the ordeal become a four hour one! In that heat, and with the biking gear on, it is not pleasant. As a result of the our late start, and combined with the delay at the border, we soon realize that, we have no other option but to bush camp. 30 km from the border, with a setting sun on the horizon, we eventually decide to leave the road. We are lucky and find what appears to be a disused gravel pit. With the sand dumps obscuring us from the road we proceed to setup camp.
We have been told by both the Italian and the German couple that, Sudan is beyond hot. They said that, the day time temp is about 45 degrees in the shade, and at night,it drops to only 38. Not one for hot or humid weather, I am not looking forward to it. We make a relatively late start, and need to back track to Gondar before heading towards the border. The road to the border winds its way through some relatively pristine, un farmed lands towards the border at Metema. The altitude slowly drops from over 2000 m down to about 600 m. With the change in altitude, comes a corresponding change in climate. Cool wet weather, slowly gives way to hot dry weather. Not the kind of stuff you like when you have to wear loads of biking gear, and have to spend time running between offices at a border post! The Ethiopian side of the border post is quick and easy however theSudanese side talked for ever! The fact that,it is a Friday afternoon,is perhaps to explain for it. The people are all at Mosque, and we are forced to wait for different people at various stages of the process. Needless to say, the ordeal become a four hour one! In that heat, and with the biking gear on, it is not pleasant. As a result of the our late start, and combined with the delay at the border, we soon realize that, we have no other option but to bush camp. 30 km from the border, with a setting sun on the horizon, we eventually decide to leave the road. We are lucky and find what appears to be a disused gravel pit. With the sand dumps obscuring us from the road we proceed to setup camp.
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| Day 75, 2011/07/15 |
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