Day 26, 2011/05/27 Dar el Salam

Day 26, 2011/05/27 Dar el Salam

After taking pads off, we soon discover that, there ain't any pad left on my pads, and after a coupleofquick calls to local expatriates, we discover that spare for any non chinese bikes are basically impossible to come by. However, that does deter us, and we head with our Tuk Tuk driver, Adam to town to see what we can do about solving our dilemma. We soon find that my pads are impossible to find however, we find a place that will be willing to rebound new material onto the pads for me. Having not too many options available to me,short of getting them DHLed in from SA,I say to the guy, go for it!
Adam, who has some things to do for the lodge, then takes us with him to the CBD.wow, what inexperience. Firstly, Adam's driving through traffic. He could get that Tuk Tuk into gaps that I thought were impossible. Hewould mount pavements at will, to take short cuts and to avoid traffic. There appeared to be no real rules to the road what so ever, a totals free for all. How we managed to survive peak the day before, is still a Mistry to me! 
Adam final takes us to some very dodge places, where he says we must make sure ww do not flash anything of value, and keep our valuables close to us. Hell, and I thought Johannesburg was gangster's paradise! The sights, sounds, and smells are something out of this world. I think they should change Salam to Slum! The rotten stench in places is enough to make one hurl. And whist surprised me was that,in amongst all that dirt and garbage, people are running stalls selling food and all sorts of things. Dar is definitely a place worth visiting, it makes one amazed at the fact that through all this nightmare, garbage and confusion, things works and people some how manage to churn out a living. Adam also takes us through some up market suburbs in the north. Once again, one could immediately feel one was driving through parts of Sandton or Brayston in Johannesburg. Once again, the contrast  between the haves, and the have nots. This world is filled with them! Even here is a city like Dar. 
Adam finally shows us some local art gallerias. The art work is nothing but amazing,and the prices dirt cheap. Pity I am on a bike else, I am sure I would have invested in some of them. 
Sinally back to the campsite and work on that bike of mine. It would appear that the bonding worked and with a little hard work, we are finally able to get the pads on the bikes. What is only missing is a good bleeding of the breaks and all should be 100s. But,I decide to leave that for tomrrow. 
 

Day 26, 2011/05/27

Day 25, 2011/05/26 Kilwa to Dar el Salam

Day 25, 2011/05/26 Kilwa to Dar el Salam

After having one of the worst breakfasts thus far on the trip, we set off in the poring rain. Unlike any of the previous rains we have encountered thus far,this appears to be here to stay. We do 80 km in torrential rain and are socked! Even the boots are filled with water, after it has run down my leg into my boot. 
We now hit the " bad stretch " that the hotel owner had warned us about. He said it was 60 km of really bad road, and with the rain it was! It was nothing like anything I had experienced before. The road was so water logged, the mud had become like sludge, and what I was unaware of was what it was doing to my brakes. After an hour, we had only managed to do 10 km of the 60 km. This was turning into a nightmare! About 12 km in, we came across erden, the cyclist from the day before. He was pushing his bike with its trailer. He was to nerves he would fall. He said to us, do not worry, only another 45 km of this. What a nightmare! What we were not aware of was that, 3 km further down we would encounter parts of semi completed road. This was mostly hard gravel, with some big obstacles in it, to prevent us from using it. Normally these obstacles were in the form of tree logs, which were easy to circumnavigate around. Howeever, the 15 km had done there damage, my almost new break pads were finished. Yes,the 15 km had destroyed them totally! The fact that we still had over 200 km to go to Dar El Salam, was neither here or there. Welcome to Africa! 
Eventually,after 60 km of by far the worst road I had ever done, it eventually became tar. I now know why people kiss the Tarmac in all those books one reads of overland trips. 
 Running late and still have almost 200 km to go, so time to sitand get one's breath back will have to wait. Just 10 km later we enter a bustling town. There are numerous cars, buses and trucks parked. This is repair city. There are all sorts of shops catering to therepairof vehicles. Not surprising after that road. There are little shacks with welders and and angle grinders going full tilt. In amounts all this, are people selling all sorts of food stuff. David and i, decide to stop for a corn on the cob. Soon we get confronted with all other sorts of food, including some form of fudge and peanut brittle, Tanzanian style. In amongst all the confusion, we also find a lady pan frying cassava, a for of potato root. We both decide to have a try. Turns out to be actually lovely and order seconds, and thirds. 
Tummies fool, it is time  to hit the road, still a long way to go. 
At about 430 pm, in peak traffic we finally hit the outskirts of Dar. Not having any breaks makes what is a nightmare into an absolute nightmare from hell! 
I could not break since, my pads were metal on metal, and every time I used my breaks, I was potentially damaging my break disks. So slowing down was using ALL my gears at my disposal, and then, to make a final stop, I would stall the engine and bring the bike to a stop by releasing my clutch while the bike was still in gear. ingenious I thought at the time. It worked very well and I managed to only use breaks on a handful of occasions. What we were not aware at the time w that, Tracks 4 Africa on our GPS, had taken us the long way round. This meant we had to go through the centre of Dar rather than taking a simple detour. It makes mates worse, 3km from our destination, we were still required to do a ferry crossing. Wearing all our gear, and still boots soaking from all the water we had to go through, was not making us feel very comfy. David lead the way, and we just followed all the people onto the ferry. It was like organized chaos! People go in one entrance, abide and 3 wheelers another, and cars the final. Then the gates open, and it is a free for all getting any space on board. Then like sardines, it is only a 5 min boat trip and one is across on the other side. Then the chaos of leaving the boat follows. Each man, woman, bike, car for themselves! Thank god we are in front of the queue, so we manage to leave all the confusion behind us. 
3 km later, and we arrive at Makida Beach, and are welcomed in by Lucho, the owner. I am soo happy to have arrived in one piece, and the repairs to the bike will have wait until the morning. 

Day 25, 2011/05/26

Day 24, 2011/05/25 Mtwara to Kilwa

Day 24, 2011/05/25 Mtwara to Kilwa

After a day of getting our things all sorted,it was nice to be on the road again and  for once been able to start seeing more of Tanzania. The ride is pretty straight forward. The road almost all the way is lovely and tarred. It is surprising how little traffic we encounter, both in the form of pedestrians and vehicles. Thomas and Lily, the couple we met in Mozambique said that Tanzania is a buzz with peo
Le and they are everywhere. Funny,we experience quite the opposite. About 30 km before Kilwa, we come across a guy by the name of Edren. A Turkish guy who is attempting to circumnavigate the world using human effort alone. He is on a bicycle with a small trolley behind. He arrived in Mozambique after crossing the Indian Ocean in a canoe. Yes! A canoe. He holds the record for the most amount of solo days canoeing, in the region of 650. And David and I think we are breaking out of our comfort zones! 
We eventually arrive in Kilwa and decide to spoil our selves and decide to stay at the Ruins Lodge. We manage to negotiate what we though was a good rate, at the time, of 80 dollars for both of us.  As it turns out this was actually quiet expensive for what we got. But hey, you never know until you try. 

Day 24, 2011/05/25

Day 23, 2011/05/24 Mtwara

Day 23, 2011/05/24 Mtwara
After getting all our stuff horribly wet during the crossing into Tanzania, we decided to just sound an extra night in Mtwara. This gave us the opportunity to Dort out 3 rd party insurance and do some shopping.  We also decided to be adventures with our dinning and to go to a busy local food stall. Wow and we were not to be disappointed. It was by far the biggest highlight of our day. We each had a selection of local cuisine, including some amazing pineapple, mango and ginger flavored fruit juice. David even went as far as making sure that he ate with his hands, and that he only used his right hand!

Day 23, 2011/05/24

Day 22, 2011/05/23 Border crossing in Tanzania to Mtwara

Day 22, 2011/05/23  Border crossing in Tanzania to Mtwara

Day 22, 2011/05/23

The rain arrived midway through the night, which resulted in a sudden scramble to put the fly sheet on. The rain did not abate, so we get up in the rain, and needed to pack everything way in the rain. Not fun! Finally, after saying our goodbyes to the missionaries, we head for the border. It is only 20 odd km. How bad can it be! 
Well, the rain did help to make the beach sand easier to ride, but that is where it stopped. The bush was soo thick in places that, as you ride down the jeep track, you are being hit by branches and wet grass all the way. To just add the cherry on the top, we hit a section of thick clay. Lovely, black stuff! It is not long and on what appears to be a lovely straight section, my front tire just vanishes out from under me. Nothing like trying to pick a fully laden bike, in clay, when you are exhausted. 
Finally we arrive at the border. It may not have vehicles going through here,since the ferry no longer exists but, there are loads of people crossing. The corruption and the payments are clear and in the open . I have never seen this so blatant and out in the open. The fact that others can see it happening appears to be non concern to the guy on the take. 
Then off to the river. I arrive a little after David, and he has done all the negotiating for us. He has knocked it down to only 50 dollars for each bike, with additional 1000 Mets for loading and un loading of the bike. Wow, and we thought we were going to get fleest! 
We thought we would have the boat to ourselves but why waste all that space! And as for unpacking the bike, they instruct me to just leave everything on. The next second I know, they instruct me to move aside while they take my bike out from my hands and start to push it down a steep embankment towards the river. 
I am very nervous but the five guys actually do a good job of picking it up and making sure it gets put on the boat. It is bucketing with rain, and I am drenched from head to toe. Then it is the tern of David's bike. They manage to get it onto the boat with similar ease. Then it is off, with a boat full of about 25 passages and two bike to the shores of the Tanzanian side of the Rovuma river. The boat and all its cargo are pushed along by a small 25 hp motor. On the way, in the rain we spot hippos in the water. On approaching the other side we hit several sand banks and are forced to offload passengers onto another boat. However,this gives short rest bite, and eventually run aground. We are forced to climb into the water and wayed through it to the shore. We are told that the river has crocodiles, so every step is done with an element of nervousness. The boat eventually finds its way through the sand banks and to the shore. Then the bikes need to be offloaded. Again nervousness sets as concern of the bikes safety is a concern. However, it all goes according to plan,and they arrive on Tanzanian soil without any damage done to them. After a brief repacking it is off to the border post. Again things are slow, and the corruption is clear and blatant and for all to see. What we also find at the border post is a number of Somali and Ethiopian refugees. I have heard about them from a girlie Pemba. They apparently have WALKED all the way from Ethiopia/Somalia. Their aim is to reach a refugee camp in Nampula in Mozambique. Some also still want to reach South Africa. Wow, and we worried about riding that distance,and here are people who are walking all that way, with nothing but the clothing they are wearing. Eye opening. Formalities at the border eventually sorted,it is of to 10 degrees South,our accommodation for the evening, and the opportunity to get all our equipment to dry. 

Day 21, 2011/05/22 Pemba to Palma

Day 21, 2011/05/22 Pemba to Palma

Day 21, 2011/05/22

We decide to go see what Ibu island is all about. However, in order to get there we need to get to the island dhow at high tide, and since high tide is at 730 and we have 200 km to cove to get there, we are up at 430 am. Yes, it is till dark at that time.
We take locals advice, and avoid the costal road. Apparently, it is still too wet to travel. So a long back tracks required. At Sunate, we turn north and head for Macomoia. A really lovely single lane road. Only used by locals and their bicycles. Really rural here. So rural that, when the kids see you on your bike, they run away because they have never scene bikes like ours before. 
Finally, after about 80 km, we turn off on the road to Ibu island. The dirt road  quickly deteriorates and we are having to avoid big potholes and patches of thick sand. 10 km into the 70 km stretch, David and reassess the situation. It is already 715am, and the chances af making the dhow are slim. Also this road is tiring and will take loads out of the bikes. A quick and easy decision is to change our plan and to head to Palma, and the border post instead. 
So back to the 243, and north to Macomia. The road is stunning but shortly after Macomia, we hit a patch if road under construction. The alternative route involves some thick sand patches so, is nerve raking. Just as the construction ends, we hit a patch of really badly maintained road. The potholes and dongas are a nightmare, and this continues for about 80 km. What a nightmare, I am surprised the bike did not sure any damage in all of that because, some of those huge potholes were not seen in time and, hit at speed. In addition, I see for the first time what we have been hearing all along, how Chinese have imported their own trucks, with their own truck drivers to transport the tree logs. Initially I was dubious about this but, when We came across a convoy of left hand drive, Chinese made trucks, with orientals behind the wheel transporting tree logs. So it is true, the Chinese are exploiting this country for its natural resources at a rapid rate, resulting in mass deforestation of the country! 
Anyway,  eventually hit the 246 to Mocimboa du Praia. Lovely stretch of road and we can average 80/90km/hr.  In Mocimboa, we meet a lovely German couple Thomas and Lily.  They had just been up to the Rovuma river for the day and gave us really valuable information of what to expect. 
A quick assessment of the situation, and we decide to see how far. Can make it to the border. The road to Palma is stunning dirt road, and I have to really hold myself back from going above 100km/hr. In Palma, we decide to head for the border. It is a really back road with loads of thick beach sand. I initially do well however, it is not long before i start to take a cow
Le of tumbles. It is on the second one that I break my right rear view mirror.  Oh boy, not nice, but at least still have the other one. 
Eventually at 5 pm, we reach a small town about halfway to border posts and decide to bush camp for the night. It is not long when we are approached by some South African missionaries, Andre and Annamarie, who invite us to camp near them. What luck! 
We finally get to use our gas stoves we have been dragging along all this way, and two minute noodles are finally enjoyed for dinner.

Day 20, 2011/05/21 Pemba

Day 20, 2011/05/21 Pemba 

A day spent just chilling and recharging our batteries. After my late night the evening before,it is precisely what the doctor ordered. 
Most exciting thing we did was a visit to town for fuel and banking, and watching of the Sharks loosing to the Bulls in rugby.

Day 20, 2011/05/21